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2.4 Advice

Dtdionne

Dtdionne

Member
Greetings,

About to climb onboard.

I have no desire to build “my voron” (i don’t mean that in a bad way), i want to build a fast, rock solid, indestructible belt bed 350 voron workhorse for cranking out as many identical parts as fast and reliably as possible. ASA, PETG and carbon variants. The widget has 2 parts, a base and a cap and could be exposed to direct sunlight. It’s a fishing accessory.

I‘m just getting started with the research. I have moderate skills (built a 1969 Marshall Plexi 100w tube amp from parts) and I’m a veteran Unix/Linux expert with over 20 years of enterprise *nix experience on everything from spark, alpha, sgi to intel...but thats about it. I’ve also been blessed with mountains of time.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks and much love and respect!
 
A few questions come to mind:
  • Is there a particular reason you're looking at the 350mm version? Is the extra size a nice thing (would be nice to be able to occasionally print something bigger), or a need (regularly printing larger items)?
  • Do you need more than 240-250mm of height in the build volume?
  • Alternate question to the previous one: If you're looking at kits, do you need more than 290-300mm of height in the build volume?
  • Are you looking for a printer that's more like a tool/appliance, or a project?
  • Is there any particular aspect of the Voron 2.4 that draws you to it over other designs?
 
Hello and welcome to VORON community!

If you are technically inclined at least a bit - which you clearly are - assembling a VORON printer should not be difficult for you. Manuals are very detailed. Software part can be a bit tricky, but there are guides online and lots of folks willing to help.

If you need the volume but have specific need to do belted printer, I recall Voronkits sells their mod with belt for 2.4. Note that they have no affiliation with VORON Design and it is likely you will have to turn to their support if you run into issues with their system. Alternatively just run full plates of 350 Trident or 2.4 and swap steel sheets after print is done.
 
WhiteWulfe -

• for my current project i need to print as many parts similarly sized to Snapple and coke bottle caps as possible, so depth and width are important. Height isn’t nearly as important.
• 100% a tool or appliance.
• at this point voron motivation is reputation, that VoronKits conveyer belt bed and price…but it’s that belt bed conveyer that lit a fire for me. The idea of letting that huge printer rip through kg’s of filament while dropping the parts into a big box without requiring me to cease assembly to walk up stairs and clear the bed ~every 10hrs is wildly enticing. This would make assembly the bottleneck and I like that bottleneck far more than a parts bottleneck.

Sanity - it was that exact belt bed that kicked me into high gear.

I also need a snappy “prototyping” printer so I got a 0.2 kit today. I think it should also make a good trial run for a 2.

Thanks so much guys, I appreciate cha!
 
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Does anyone have experience with the VoronKits 2.4 conveyer belt bed?

I haven’t been able to quickly find much anecdotal info or first hand experiences with it.
 
It definitely looks interesting, but I also don't know of anyone with actual experience with it. I've been tempted, but I don't really have a need for such a product myself (I'm more than happy going by the plate)
 
I think yor gonna be very sorry if yo think its gona crank out parts like clockwork unattended. I ate to be the anti guy bt for that large run of parts Yo would be better off consulting a molding company no? I bet here are some cheap as dirt companys making parts by the ton. Im new too so its just an opinnion. and we all know bout those....
 
Oh i feel ya 100% and have had the very same thoughts and concerns. But all in all im more that sufficiently impressed with the voron ethos to venture down their path than continue down Bambu’s. I have an x1 and love it, but I’m gonna try this…everything about ”voron” speaks to me and im excited about that.
 
To be honest I don’t yet know enough about the differences between 24r2 and Trident to know. I just know that conveyer works with 24r2, my guess is the trident may be a bedslinger...I haven’t really even looked at it, but i will.

I’ve coded in UNIX/Linux/Clix/etcetcetc so i was intending on investigating lidar (or some kinda “uh oh” mechanism), and if code is needed to do that…so be it.

Ive been wriggling through the weave of kits and sources and niggles, it’s not a trivial amount of data. And so far it seems the LDO kits charge more to avoid niggles, like wiring fatigue, can, clicky and a buncha other stuff, but that it varies from reseller to reseller. I have a hunch I’ll end up reseller sourcing most of it…getting the best sub-set of parts specific resellers seem to get really right. But idk, im still trying to compile recent info. And i may just try and self-source.
 
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Dtdionne said:
To be honest I don’t yet know enough about the differences between 24r2 and Trident to know. I just know that conveyer works with 24r2, my guess is the trident may be a bedslinger...I haven’t really even looked at it, but i will.
Click to expand...
Trident is not exactly a bed flinger 😄 It's a CoreXY withgantry bolted to the frame and bed moves up and down. It is slightly simpler to build and maintain, due to being mechanically less complex and requiring fewer parts. See here for basic information about printers: https://docs.vorondesign.com/hardware.html
 
Trident and V2 are very similar, the main difference being the Trident has a moving bed on leadscrews and static gantry while the V2 has a static bed and flying gantry on belts. The gantry itself is almost the same and many mods work on both (I have lots os "V2" mods on my Trident). The static bed on the V2 allows the belted bed mod where it would not work on a Trident.
I kind of wonder if @Sanity Agathion's suggestion might be something to consider. Perhaps even a pair of 300 or 250 printers. Smaller printer heat up faster, and one of Nero's truisms is along the lines of the fastest printer is another printer. It would also give you some redundancy if one of them breaks--at least one can continue producing while the broken one is being repaired. Just some food for thought.
 
From community feedback, 300 is optimal in terms of heating up. Trident has bed up top, hot air raises. 300 bed is large enough to give a lot of heat, compared to 250. The space to heat is also smaller than with 350.
 
Ahhhh, i think i get it. So the trident is similar to my x1c? I like this x1c, it just prints, effortlessly. Such great info, thank you guys.

So i imagine i‘ll prolly build both. I’ll try it all, im retired, unmarried, no kids, live alone and this has my full attention.

I bumped into Hevort reading about “kinematic theory”. It looks 100% self sourced and they touched on the same bed-size/heating/power/print-quality trade-offs you guys did.
 
Wow…a testament, thats what that is. Well done Voron. Bambu will ultimately serve as my gateway printer to Voron…I’m ok with that.

So build surfaces?

My guess is you print where you build it meaning moving a large assembled Voron isn’t a picnic. Any suggestions for a large, sturdy table for assembly and then printing? Or what do you guys think the optimal dimensions would be for an assembly table?
 
As the saying goes: imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

I have my Trident 250 on the typical IKEA Lack table and it works fine. I doubt a 350 monster will fit on that though. I have moved my 250 around a few times
 
claudermilk said:
As the saying goes: imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

I have my Trident 250 on the typical IKEA Lack table and it works fine. I doubt a 350 monster will fit on that though. I have moved my 250 around a few times
Click to expand...
350 Tribent and 2.4 fit there perfectly, they are the same size essentially 🙂 I use Lack table as metric for people when they want 350, asking them "it's not a printer it's a piece of furniture, are you sure you have room for one more sidetable the size of IKEA Lack but higher?"
 
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