Abandoned.

[Oneway]

the end.

 

[Devvs]

Questions to anyone with actual knowledge of the outcome.

1. Using mgn12 rails for the rear Z instead of mgn9? pros? cons? anything?
2. Using old linear rails for backers on Y axis instead of purchasing flat expensive titanium, has anyone tried it? I have a titanium one frim my old x gantry already and dont want the extra weight of all other rail.
3. Wobble X ? Ive read that it works but would you build it first or wait to see if its needed, I believe you lose some Z but honestly with the extra 50mm im building into this and rarely ever using the 250ish available on my trident Im not worried about 18 some odd mm of loss if its worth it.
4. Nitehawk rev C , Im pretty sure this is the route im going since can is more of a cant with the chamber temps this will be running. My trident has canbus and despite hours and hours of printing with a chamber temp of 65-70c I’ve had zero issues and even the setup went off without an hitch, that said I’ve read about all the problems. I was going to go straight umbilical until I started researching parts and realized they finally released the nitehawk in the ebb36! The biggest plus for me besides the easier install is the loss of the extra cable for the beacon , that alone makes it worth it. Any practical advice would be greatly appreciated.
5. Power supply configuration, im pretty much leaning towards 48v, maybe, that said if I do go that route does that mean I can get away with the smaller 24v meanwell therby using the same space as one 200w 24v for both supplies , the electronics is the part I’m most apprehensive about and the wiring , I can only do monkey see monkey do since I don’t have alot of practical application
6. 5v ps or no? Is pulling from the board a bad idea ? Is it better to be able to power up the pi while not the entire printer , that seems like a good idea.
7. Octopus Pro, I know there are three chipsets and of that two are favored , at the time I’m writing this one is unavailable , do I need the one I can’t get , will I kick myself for not waiting?

Thanks to anyone taking time to leave some advice, I have discord as well and will be most likely posting in desperation once the Monolith awd gets underway, that one I have zero knowledge other than what I’ve read and no instructions . Awesome

MGN12 vs MGN9: MGN12’s a bit beefier, so if you’re hauling some serious weight on the Z-axis, go for it. Otherwise, MGN9 should be fine.


Old Rails for Y: If your old rails still run smooth, why not reuse them? Could save some cash, just don’t expect titanium-level precision.


Wobble X: If it ain't broke, don’t fix it. If you see wobble, then maybe consider it, but you’re good for now.

 

[3dCase]

I just replaced my x axis mgn9 (2 pieces) for one mgn15 real hiwin, this is on my current V2.4 with chaoticlab cnc parts.
Reasons are the mgn9 were horrible and caused nearly 1mm of wobble on a single rail. The second rail just served as a steady and this is stupid imho.
It is way more difficult to line up two rails to run smooth together then to make one perfectly true and parallel to the bed. Also my mgn was having tough spots where the fixing screws were. It must have deformed in those places.
So my conclusion is, and has been for years, beter spend a buck or two more for reliability and get a simple setup in return. Today I buy nothing but real hiwin and nothing smaller then mgn15. That is until I might build the voron 0.
I have in fact built bed slingers with standard hiwin 15 rails with full sized carriage blocks. This meant I did not really need an extruded profile for the x axis anymore and the rails became load bearing.