All Metal 2.4 350mm Build with Chaoticlab Kits

[MichaelOToole]

Decided to build a second 2.4 (350mm) using Kits from chaoticlab's as they supply everything in individual kits.
My main aim here is to evaluate this approach and provide feedback on the kits/process so that others may gain from my experience.
I will post prices later in the post, so far it looks like it will cost less than my first build using LDO Kit & Chaoticlab CNC Parts...

Updated: 6th Feb 2026

These are the kits available:

• Voron 2.4 Electronics Kit (Set 1 - $295) Discontinued!
• Voron 2.4 Full Cable Kit (Set 2 - $45)
• Voron 2.4 Full Fastener Kit (Set 3 - $56)
• Voron 2.4 Heated Bed Kit (Set 4 - $129)
• Voron 2.4 Motion Kit (Set 5 - $229)
• Voron 2.4 Panels Kit (Set 6 - $109)
• Voron 2.4 Frame Kit (Set 7 - $109)
• Voron 2.4 CNC Parts Kit V2.0 ($399 no tap)
• Voron 2.4 Tap V2 ($44.99)

The overall price should be lower (no distributor's markup) and you can choose whatever kits you require.

Here is a link to the kits...

Packaging:
Top Notch, Kits come in the usual Chaoticlab Black Box, labeled "(kit name here) Kit for Voron" and wrapped in several layers of bubble wrap...
Of all the Kits I am aware of, these are premier when it comes to packaging and presentation, I was very impressed...

[Set 1] Electronics Kit
This Kit is out of stock and discontinued, I sourced these parts separately, see Replacement for [Set 1] below for details...

[Set 2] Full Cable Kit
Chaoticlab black box, quality excellent, perfect packaging, looking good...

[Set 3 ]Full Fastener Kit
Chaoticlab black box, inside everything individually packaged in labeled plastic bags and placed inside a segmented reusable plastic box. next level quality...

[Set 4] Heated Bed Kit
Chaoticlab black box, quality excellent...
Contents: Bed 8mm, Heater (240VAC), Spring Steel (textured both sides), Adhesive Magnet Sheet...
Notes: You will need high temperature silicone adhesive to bond heater to bed... I need to source this, any ideas?

[Set 5] Motion Kit
Chaoticlab black box, bubble wrap, perfect packaging...
Excellent quality (perfect)...

[Set 6] Panels Kit
Chaoticlab black box, foam wrap, perfect packaging, huge box
Everything looks perfect....

[Set 7] Frame Kit
Chaoticlab black box, perfect packaging, mint condition extrusions, nice din rails...
Excellent quality (perfect)...

CNC Parts Kits V2.0:
Excellent quality (mint), perfect packaging €327...

CNC TAP V2:
Chaoticlab CNC Voron Tap V2.0 (Perfect) €33...

Optional CNC parts :
Chaoticlab CNC Door Mounting Kit (Perfect) €32...
Aliexpress CNC Stealthburner Clockwork 2 extruder parts (Perfect)... A little expensive at €36 but my printed latch failed on my 300mm build...

StealthBurner Printed Parts:
Purchased the Blurolls Voron Stealthburner SB Clockwork 2 Extruder Toolhead (Red ABS+, Infill 40%) on AliExpress.
Top notch quality, printed perfectly, cost: €25.28

Replacement for [Set 1] Electronics Kit (kit is no longer available, parts sourced separately from Biqu Equipment and AliExpress)

• Kraken V1.1 (€101.75) Source: Biqu - Arrived ✔
• LDO Motor Kit (€109.02) Source: Biqu - Arrived ✔
• Pi TFT50 V2.1 display (€32.13) Source: Biqu - Arrived ✔
• Meanwell LRS-350-24, RS-25-5 (€60.63) Source: Aliexpress Arrived ✔
• Omron G3NB-210B-1 10A (€19) Source: Aliexpress Arrived ✔

Total: €322.53 ($381) ... about the same cost as the kit if you allow for the upgrade to Kraken...

Costs:

Previous Build:​

From memory I believe I spent about €1650 (possible a little more).​

​

Current Build:​

Approximately €1460 (includes some more CNC parts (Door Mounting Kit, Filament Latch) and some upgrades to electronics.​

Not going to price in the printed parts as I have lots of filament and will print them myself...
Allow about $60 for Stealthburner and associated parts...

What am I missing:
Orbiter 2.5 or use Orbiter 2.0 if I can find where I put it... (€42.53)
All prints for electronics bay...

Added: 6th Feb 2026 @16:07 UTC
Cost Breakdown:
Total (for available Kits without CNC parts): €665.90 ($787)
Add CNC Parts: €337.60 ($399)
Add Electronics: €322.53 ($381) ... (Includes Kraken V1.1 and 5" Pi TFT)
Sub Total: €1325 ($1567)

Additional Parts Costs:
LDO Orbiter V2.5 €42.53
Stealthburner SB Clockwork 2 printed parts: €25.28
CNC Door Mounting Kit: €32
CNC Latch Parts: €36
Sub Total: €135.81

Total Spend: €1460.81 ($1725.47)

Note, my prices include VAT, US prices may be lower but shipping might negate this...

Conclusion:
From memory my LDO 2.4 all metal build cost at least €1650, that's €200 more than this build, if I remove the extras I included this time, the difference would amount to at least a €300 saving.
The price difference is primarily down to using distributors who add their own margin (I'm guessing), but even so, it's a substantial saving for identical quality.
All in all, it was a good decision to go down this path...

What I forgot:
Didn't include the costs for the CANBus boards but as I have these in stock, I won't include the now, perhaps on a future update...
I did not include the cost for the printed parts as I will print these myself, basicall skirt and clamps for electronics bay...
There's probably more...

Did I mention I was impressed with the quality presentation and packaging of the ChaoticLab Kits...

Mike

 

[NoGuru]

Nice project, subbing to watch the progress.

 

[MichaelOToole]

Might be a bit more difficult, have since developed Rheumatoid Arthritis, it's no too bad these days but left hand no fully working, right is fine.

Just got email to inform me Set 1: Voron 2.4 Electronics Kit out of stock and discontinued...
Now I need to find another source... Aliexpress here I come... might upgrade main board but which to get?

Have lots of 2209's, Pi 4, Fans and more but need the Mainboard, Motors and PSU's...

 

[NoGuru]

Aww man, sorry to hear that Michael. I can sympathize with you, tenuities and eyes getting worse make it hard for me to work on things as well.

I do not recommend using 2209's unless you are on a budget. So many WAYYYY better drivers out there. I have not tried it but the BTT Kraken looks to be a nice board and has built in 5160 drivers.

 

[MichaelOToole]

Ordered the Kraken, LDO Motors and the Display... €240... that leaves... ?

 

[3dCase]

Sorry to hear your fingers are letting you down. I had to contend with clise up eyesight problems and it is always horrible. I hope you will find work arounds.
Nice project and will be following it.
Have you found use for the revo parts already?

 

[MichaelOToole]

I can't actually open my left hand that much, I can use the index finger and thumb close to normal but as a hand it's kinda useless...
Didn't get to use the Revo parts yet, everything takes longer now but, come the summer

 

[3dCase]

I can't actually open my left hand that much, I can use the index finger and thumb close to normal but as a hand it's kinda useless...
Didn't get to use the Revo parts yet, everything takes longer now but come the summer

Yup I can relate to things taking longer. Hope things improve somehow.

 

[MichaelOToole]

I updated my original post above as more Kits arrived.

It has become apparent (during the examination / unboxing of the kits), that the quality is top notch, at the very least on a par but often exceeding that of other sources.
Appreciate many of the suppliers may have the same sources so overall quality will be similar or exact but certainly the packaging and branding is outstanding...

Mike

 

[3dCase]

I updated my original post above as more Kits arrived.

It has become apparent (during the examination / unboxing of the kits), that the quality is top notch, at the very least on a par but often exceeding that of other sources.
Appreciate many of the suppliers may have the same sources so overall quality will be similar or exact but certainly the packaging and branding is outstanding...

Mike

I had absolutely the exact same experience. The packaging, and marking of each package, was of top level quality. The parts are superb with high detail to finishing. It was a joy re-building my machine with them. Especially the fasteners were really of outstanding quality with pre-applied loctite, simply top notch.
I hope you will find the same right through to the end , and that it will run as it should. Looking forward to the result.

 

[tetra]

...
Notes: You will need high temperature silicone adhesive to bond heater to bed... I need to source this, any ideas?
...

Mike

this hi-temp silicone adhesive might be the best on the market.

SS-69 High Strength, High Temperature Adhesive Sealant

SS-69 is a high strength, high temperature silicone RTV engineered for applications requiring fast development of physical properties and excellent adhesion. SS-69 offers the highest temperature resistance of any acetoxy cure silicone currently available. When cured, the elastomer resists...

siliconesolutions.com

 

[3dCase]

Strange, my heaters always came with a 3M highbtemperature sticker.
If yours did not I would simply get a high temperature sealant for exhausts. Mine are red and are stable up to 600 degreesC. And they stay flexible, I would not pay through the nose for something that states its specially for something like 3d printing, until proven to me that it does indeed do something special.
I have glued my thermistor and thermal overloads with this silicone sealant before and never gave me any problems. I suppose s heaterpad would also work with this sealant.

 

[tetra]

Mine are red and are stable up to 600 degreesC.

I think you mean Fahrenheit, not Celsius. If indeed Celsius, please post the brand!

 

[3dCase]

I think you mean Fahrenheit, not Celsius. If indeed Celsius, please post the brand!

Yes my bad. It is 650 degrees F, which is still over 340 degrees C. It is from JB Weld and I think you can buy it from any carparts shop in europe anyway.

 

[tetra]

600F == 315.6C <-- (edit: oops, I thought you wrote 600F = over 340C)
But yeah, JB Weld is a good brand too. And, I too have always had heaters with the sticky sheet on the back.

 

[3dCase]

600F == 315.6C

650 degrees F, but both are hot enough to burn your fingers so not sure why you feel the need to correct me. But whatever. Cheap as chips so my choice.

 

[MichaelOToole]

I found an official doc link containing the some information: Installing Heater with RTV.

My point was, the LDO Bed came with the Heater already applied to the Bed but as these Heaters normally comes with 3M adhesive, so the extra black silicone adhesive around the edges of the Heater is applied for extra hold and not under the entire Heater element...

This was/is my assumption, so I wanted to know what the extra adhesive was and now it appears to be a generic high temp RTV adhesive.

RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing)
Any high temperature RTV will do, but RTV106 was suggested in the official linked document.

Probably don't need it as I don't intend going over 100ºС any time soon, so I opted for a generic Red RTV (343ºС) for small money on ebay

 

[3dCase]

If the heater is smaller then the bed, is whatever is outside this heater surface on the underside of the expised bed not also meant to be some insulation?
I don’t know how well this stuff indulates but it is deffo setting at room temperature while it cures completely with heat. We seal reductor boxes with it which are sitting against hot servo motors or other machine parts that get too hot to touch at times. It sets in all temperatures, even cold but off course takes longer, and cures fully in time. Not dure if this on the outside of the bed is for extra hold tbh, those 3M stickers are extreme high bonding glue normally, I would not think they need help from some silicon.

 

[MichaelOToole]

Almost certainly not use as an insulator but it's entirely possible the heater used in the LDO kit came without the 3M adhesive and they used an RTV silicone instead, that would explain the overlap.
But then again, as the main point of failure for adhesion is at the edges, it could be Belt and Braces approach... it's anyone's guess...

 

[MichaelOToole]

All parts have arrived so I updated first post, basically I saved about €200 over my previous build with absolutely no drop in quality...

Now to make room somewhere to build a 350mm 2.4, easier said than done