Bed fan mod with 24V bed

[sachin patil]

Hi, I am new to 3d printing and new to this forum as well.
I am building core xy printer by my own with heated chamber. After doing many many research on internet, I came to the conclusion that I should build a chamber with bed fan (2x 4020 blower fans). I have 200W aluminium 310x310x3mm size heated bed available in my printer. Printer is powered by 24V supply.
My target is to build heated chamber with min temp 60C to print ABS and ASA.
I use marlin so I am thinking to connect bed fans to the exhaust fan pin. I am using SKR 2 board.

Also I am planning to have exhaust fan with servo controlled vent to the chamber. And there will display with encoder to set the desired temperature. When chamber temp will be go beyond target temp, exhaust fan will on. This whole setup will be Independently controlled by arduino.

Will these setups work? Whats your opinion?

 

[NoGuru]

Sounds like you have over complicated the setup.
Active heated chambers are not allowed to be discussed on this forum. Passive heated (AKA Bed Fans) can be.
Just build a Voron 2.4 and be done. Also why would you run Marlin, its pretty terrible to work with unless you like compiling the firmware and flashing every time you want to make a change.

 

[sachin patil]

Hey. Thanks for your quick response. I understand. But my point was not about making active heated chamber. I was talking about bed fans mod only. I still would like to know is it sufficient to use 24V 200W bed with two 4020 blowers as a bed fans to maintain 60C temp in my printer. Had anyone tried this?

And I use Marlin because I started with Marlin when i entered in 3D printing hobby 2 years back and not explored other firmware. About klipper, My understanding is that I need raspberry pi to modify the firmware. And currently i dont want to invest time and money in raspberry pi as I am bit familiar with Marlin now. Definately will explore klipper as well in future.

 

[shiftingtech]

Your 200w isn't even close to powerful enough for an abs printer, unfortunately. I doubt that a 200w, 300mm bed will even get to abs printing temperatures, much less have sufficient additional capacity to provide heat for bed fans. For comparison, a voron of similar size generally uses a 650w mains powered bed.

As for your comment about klipper "needing a pi to modify the firmware", it's not wrong, yet somehow doesnt feel right either: the pi is ...everything in klipper. It's not just used for "modifying the firmware", it's the entire brain of the printer.

 

[sachin patil]

So, there is no other way instead of using mains power for bed. Actually I dont want to go with high voltage.. would like to work with 24V max. I know 650w power using 24v will require very high current and not a practically feasible solution. Looks like need to figure out something different. But definately i am not going to use active heated chamber.

And thanks for clarifying about pi.

 

[shiftingtech]

Is there a specific reason you're reluctant to do mains bed? As long as you use the appropriate thermal fuses and such, it's still a safe thing...

 

[NoGuru]

I don't just say this because this is a Voron forum but because it will be easier on you to build a Voron kit and then it will open your eyes to see that once you do this you can start making custom machines and see what it entails to do so.
Trust me when I say, I worked with Marlin for YEARS and I will never touch it again after running Klipper. That is how superior it is to Marlin.

 

[sachin patil]

@NoGuru , you might be right because I never used klipper so I dont know its potential.. I am feeling that I should explore that..

@shiftingtech , I am bit reluctant because my printer is having moving bed up and down with 3 lead screw and guide rods. Since its moving so bed AC wires will be moving. Again if i am using AC bed so I need to have proper earthing to it. So using AC supply (high volt) adds so many precautionary checks.
But in other hand, Its true that I need to increase bed wattage around 500 to 600w and that not really feasible with 24V supply. Hope I should give a try to AC bed. Can you please share circuit with required protections to it?

 

[NoGuru]

@NoGuru , you might be right because I never used klipper so I dont know its potential.. I am feeling that I should explore that..

@shiftingtech , I am bit reluctant because my printer is having moving bed up and down with 3 lead screw and guide rods. Since its moving so bed AC wires will be moving. Again if i am using AC bed so I need to have proper earthing to it. So using AC supply (high volt) adds so many precautionary checks.
But in other hand, Its true that I need to increase bed wattage around 500 to 600w and that not really feasible with 24V supply. Hope I should give a try to AC bed. Can you please share circuit with required protections to it?

Read this manual on the Voron Trident, it has the same design you mentioned and all the information on how to build and setup one. https://vorondesign.com/voron_trident

 

[claudermilk]

@NoGuru just beat me. As he just said, the Trident is a moving bed with mains wiring. Mine is now over three years old and probably pushing 3000 hours print time. And it's not the oldest Trident (or V1) by a long shot. Properly built, it's not a problem.

 

[sachin patil]

Now I have decided to shift to Klipper from Marlin. Once I am done with klipper then I will get back to the passive heated chamber modifications.
I ordered Raspberry Pi 4B 4GB.
There is SKR 2 and Reprap discout display controller available on existing printer.
Can I operate my printer without octoprint by using a display controller? Means If I install any plugin from octoprint and then I close the octoprint and try to operate printer using display controller. Will those plugins still be there or they will go with octoprint?