- Printer Model
- VORON Legacy
- Extruder Type
- Galileo
- Cooling Type
- Stealthburner
Legacy is the only printer without a manual right now. Despite that, I think it is one of the easiest VORON builds, competing with Switchwire for ease of assembly. You will use CAD pretty extensively instead. Here are my notes I put together while assembling.
Start with assembling frame (obviously
).
Then assemble Z, because once you put gantry on, it's going to be annoying mounting upper Z holders - doable, but you have to release bottom holders too. Don't freak when lower supports crack when you shove rods in, they are supposed to. They have internal structure to control where they crack. Use the Z alignment tool to physically align upper and lower holders on frame. It's a hidden object in Legacy CAD if you want to see how it goes. Put on bed assembly before you close the top with upper rod holders.
Do not Loctite pulleys on A and B motors yet, you will need to adjust height when putting belts on.
When assembling gantry, I'd start with X and Y separately, because X can be very easily removed and put on with 4 screws. I'd somewhat recommend maybe printing bearing block parts with 0.5-1% little less flow, or enlarge it in size this tiny bit? Or maybe heat them up with hot air gun to form around bearing. They are VERY tight fit, I used vice to shove bearings in (and still cracked left front Y bearing retainer and X carriage has stress marks). I didn't have this problem with Z bearing holders.
AB joints are a bit finicky to hold and screw together when you put bearing stacks in, humans have too few fingers for this job. But once you screw upper and lower part they hold nicely and Y bearing retainers slide right into them. Don't forget M5 hex nuts
then put rods and end pieces (Y rear support and front idlers).
Print 4 of these Legacy alignment tools https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/791364306276450337/1006420060069441627 (credit goes to hostek#3046) and use them to align Y axis when you put it on, 2 front 2 at the back. It may happen that you will need to add extra shim to front idler bearing stack or leave it more loose - else rods will not be parallel, they converge at the front and they will bind. Happened to me and few others.
X axis is pretty straightforward. Once you put rods in, cap them with XY Joints Backbrace, and put X axis on Y axis by screwing those 4 screw in. Gantry is assembled.
Belting - it's annoying to pull belts through AB motor mounts as the sides are not accessible when they are mounted in corners. I released screws and slid them few centimeters towards the center, then used tweezers to pull belts through. You can tape ziptie to the end of belt, and use that as a lead. Once belted, slide AB motor mounts back, pre-tension, and adjust pulleys, then Loctite them.
Until RCF designs CW2 carriage, some good soul made Legacy X carriage for CW2 and posted on Discord https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/791364306276450337/1012131175113949204 (Credit goes to Ibbanez#3789) - unfortunately I cannot attach STLs here, they are bigger than upload limit of 1 MB. If you want to use CW2 but you will need to hack together umbilical somehow
CAN board mounts for Nema14 motors have strain relief and umbilical support for example.
Note when using Stealthburner: SB body bumps to the side, preventing X endstop from reaching it and triggering. I solved this by printing small 6 mm tall prism and glueing it to XY joint, others bent metal lever on switch, or went sensorless.
Enjoy your build, I hope this helps a bit
Start with assembling frame (obviously
).Then assemble Z, because once you put gantry on, it's going to be annoying mounting upper Z holders - doable, but you have to release bottom holders too. Don't freak when lower supports crack when you shove rods in, they are supposed to. They have internal structure to control where they crack. Use the Z alignment tool to physically align upper and lower holders on frame. It's a hidden object in Legacy CAD if you want to see how it goes. Put on bed assembly before you close the top with upper rod holders.
Do not Loctite pulleys on A and B motors yet, you will need to adjust height when putting belts on.
When assembling gantry, I'd start with X and Y separately, because X can be very easily removed and put on with 4 screws. I'd somewhat recommend maybe printing bearing block parts with 0.5-1% little less flow, or enlarge it in size this tiny bit? Or maybe heat them up with hot air gun to form around bearing. They are VERY tight fit, I used vice to shove bearings in (and still cracked left front Y bearing retainer and X carriage has stress marks). I didn't have this problem with Z bearing holders.
AB joints are a bit finicky to hold and screw together when you put bearing stacks in, humans have too few fingers for this job. But once you screw upper and lower part they hold nicely and Y bearing retainers slide right into them. Don't forget M5 hex nuts
then put rods and end pieces (Y rear support and front idlers).Print 4 of these Legacy alignment tools https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/791364306276450337/1006420060069441627 (credit goes to hostek#3046) and use them to align Y axis when you put it on, 2 front 2 at the back. It may happen that you will need to add extra shim to front idler bearing stack or leave it more loose - else rods will not be parallel, they converge at the front and they will bind. Happened to me and few others.
X axis is pretty straightforward. Once you put rods in, cap them with XY Joints Backbrace, and put X axis on Y axis by screwing those 4 screw in. Gantry is assembled.
Belting - it's annoying to pull belts through AB motor mounts as the sides are not accessible when they are mounted in corners. I released screws and slid them few centimeters towards the center, then used tweezers to pull belts through. You can tape ziptie to the end of belt, and use that as a lead. Once belted, slide AB motor mounts back, pre-tension, and adjust pulleys, then Loctite them.
Until RCF designs CW2 carriage, some good soul made Legacy X carriage for CW2 and posted on Discord https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/791364306276450337/1012131175113949204 (Credit goes to Ibbanez#3789) - unfortunately I cannot attach STLs here, they are bigger than upload limit of 1 MB. If you want to use CW2 but you will need to hack together umbilical somehow
CAN board mounts for Nema14 motors have strain relief and umbilical support for example.Note when using Stealthburner: SB body bumps to the side, preventing X endstop from reaching it and triggering. I solved this by printing small 6 mm tall prism and glueing it to XY joint, others bent metal lever on switch, or went sensorless.
Enjoy your build, I hope this helps a bit
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