Calibration Confusion

[Tegguy]

Printer Model

2.4 R2 350

Extruder Type

Clockwork 2

Cooling Type

Stealthburner

Hey everyone newbie 2.4 build here and I'm struggling and I need help.

I am struggling to understand the difference from Z_endstop_calibration and probe _calibration

Using the Z pin for homing and klicky probe but I can't seem to get my first layer right (nozzle way off the bed).

Also when doing the paper test for manually setting the height do you remove the paper and step it down .1mm or leave it .1mm above the bed and accept it?

 

[Sanity Agathion]

I can't help much with Klicky specifically, but if you have Z endstop, it works like this: you use Z endstop for homing, and probe of some kind is used for tramming and bed mesh.
Probe calibrate tells you how high or low does toolhead need to move up or down with the nozzle to get optimal print height - from the moment probe triggered (inductive detected metal, Tap interrupted light beam, Klicky clicked on surface).
Z endstop calibration tells you how much up or down toolhead needs to go from the moment Z endstop is pressed by nozzle.
If you have physical Z endstop, save the Z offset under Z endstop. You do not save it to probe.
There is a relationship between Z endstop and Probe for bed mesh, set through Relative Reference index (formerly), now through Zero Reference Position. But you don't do much with probe when you have physical endstop.

 

[Tegguy]

So I'm close but still not sure if I'm there.... When I do the Z_offset_calibration and do the paper test do I leave the nozzle .1MM above the bed or do I remove the paper and drop down .1mm before accepting? The reason I ask is becuase right now when I manually move the nozzle my Z is 0 when touching the paper (.1mm above build plate)

My auto-Z offset seems awful small but it seems to be working.

 

[Sanity Agathion]

So I'm close but still not sure if I'm there.... When I do the Z_offset_calibration and do the paper test do I leave the nozzle .1MM above the bed or do I remove the paper and drop down .1mm before accepting? The reason I ask is becuase right now when I manually move the nozzle my Z is 0 when touching the paper (.1mm above build plate)

My auto-Z offset seems awful small but it seems to be working.

IIRC you drop down only when you are doing the calibration while hot? Other than that, you will also probably baby-step during print - print skirt with few loops to adjust as it goes.

 

[Tegguy]

IIRC you drop down only when you are doing the calibration while hot? Other than that, you will also probably baby-step during print - print skirt with few loops to adjust as it goes.

So having the z 0 location as actually.1mm is correct?

Should preface that im a total newbie with printing and everything so I've never even used the Z adjust during the print

 

[shiftingtech]

So having the z 0 location as actually.1mm is correct?

Should preface that im a total newbie with printing and everything so I've never even used the Z adjust during the print

When everything is hot, (thermal expansion is a thing!) z =0 should mean the nozzle is literally touching the bed (just barely). When 0.1 enters into things, that's generally because you're compensating for the thickness of a piece of paper.

 

[Tegguy]

When everything is hot, (thermal expansion is a thing!) z =0 should mean the nozzle is literally touching the bed (just barely). When 0.1 enters into things, that's generally because you're compensating for the thickness of a piece of paper.

So at cold z= 0 at .1mm would be correct?

I'm fighting with ABS and getting it to stick to the bed.

 

[shiftingtech]

Roughly, yes.

You can always fine tune when it's hot too, of course

 

[Tegguy]

Roughly, yes.

You can always fine tune when it's hot too, of course

Thanks I'll keep struggling through this. Can't understand why I can't get the filament to stick to the bed... so frustrating

 

[Sanity Agathion]

Thanks I'll keep struggling through this. Can't understand why I can't get the filament to stick to the bed... so frustrating

Sorry to hear that. Is the surface clean? Dish soap and hot water, then IPA, if it's smooth PEY maybe roughen it with some fine sandpaper. If it's textured, you need to get pretty low for filament to flow into texture.

 

[Tegguy]

Sorry to hear that. Is the surface clean? Dish soap and hot water, then IPA, if it's smooth PEY maybe roughen it with some fine sandpaper. If it's textured, you need to get pretty low for filament to flow into texture.

I've tried both smooth and textured. I will try Dish soap and hot water... I've been doing IPA before each print currently.

I had an issue with ABS sticking too good to the smooth sheet and that's what send me down this path and now I think I've changed the wrong setting somewhere and am struggling to get back.

 

[Westy-nz]

Thanks I'll keep struggling through this. Can't understand why I can't get the filament to stick to the bed... so frustrating

9.5 times out of ten is is the incorrect Z offset set. - I have found with mine anyway. I am running a Tap ... so use probe_calibrate. I use a 0.1mm feeler blade and set it that way with the GUI baby steps. then save_config and that saves the offset. I have a filament sheet which has notches every 20mm and set the layer pattern in PRUSA to Aligned REctilinear and change the fill angle to 90 degrees to allow it to print up and down instead of at a 45 degree angle. then let it run for one segment and then adjust the z height by 0.01 for example and see what happens (It will be instant) and you should see the filament starting to stick if you (are too high off the bed)then move down to 0.01 at each notch look at the welding pattern and see if it is welding the entire run and the permitters as well... keep coming down till it does... if you go to far ... back it off the same amount as the previous entry and then go ot 0.005... you can go down -0.025 and -0.05 and also -0.005 increments. Well that is how I do mine anyway. Of course you will need to have the correct temp set up for your filament as well first