What's new
VORON Design

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members!

CAN Bus Upgrade Information and Sources

LoadMaster7

Well-known member
I am starting a path to upgrading my stock Voron 2.4 R2 to Stealth Burner and CAN Bus. I am looking for information on sources for learning what I will need to know to make this happen. I want to switch to an umbilical cord arrangement. I have a BIGTREETECH EBB 36 Can Bus U2C V2.1 on order. I am not sure if I connect this directly to my Raspberry Pi 4B, or to the BIGTREETECH BTT Octopus or if I need anything else.

For those of you that have already completed this, what were your biggest issues to overcome?
 
Last edited:
I’ve done CAN umbilical in 2 of my printers using the EBB36 boards (also a HUVUD before I put a Stealthburner on the v2.4) and Waveshare CAN hats for the Pi. I believe you can run CAN directly to the Octopus, but I haven’t looked into it myself. If you look up eddietheengineer on YouTube, his videos should guide you through the process easily. His videos helped me IMMENSELY (thanks @eddie !!!).

I’m not home at the moment, so I can‘t tell you exactly what prints I’ve used to mount the umbilical stuff, but you should some stuff is you google around a bit. That’s how I stumbled on it, haha. I did use FEP wires in the umbilical, and I have it gently supported from a silicone “bungee” and bracket I have attached to the top rear frame.
 
I am starting a path to upgrading my stock Voron 2.4 R2 to Stealth Burner and CAN Bus. I am looking for information on sources for learning what I will need to know to make this happen. I want to switch to an umbilical cord arrangement. I have a BIGTREETECH EBB 36/42 Can Bus U2C V2.1 on order. I am not sure if I connect this directly to my Raspberry Pi 4B, or to the BIGTREETECH BTT Octopus or if I need anything else.

For those of you that have already completed this, what were your biggest issues to overcome?
You are saying that you ordered the ebb36 and a u2c 2.1 right? I have been trying to get it working but haven't been successful so far. So far I have been trying to connect the ebb36 directly to the octopus as suggested on the btt Facebook group but I haven't been able to get that working. I am going to try again using the u2c board.
 
You are saying that you ordered the ebb36 and a u2c 2.1 right? I have been trying to get it working but haven't been successful so far. So far I have been trying to connect the ebb36 directly to the octopus as suggested on the btt Facebook group but I haven't been able to get that working. I am going to try again using the u2c board.

This guide should be of some help: https://github.com/maz0r/klipper_canbus/blob/main/index.md
Based on the diagram there, the U2C is your CAN Controller, the Octopus is the Printer Controller, and the EBB is the CAN Toolhead


So, connect the U2C to the Pi over USB, and set up the can network: https://github.com/maz0r/klipper_canbus/blob/main/controller/u2c.md
Personally, I would run 24V and GND to the U2C (green terminals) from either your PSU (good idea to stick a fuse in-line on 24V), and then I would run 4 wires from either the black or white 2x2 pin terminals on the U2C up to the EBB.
Before you connect those 4 wires up to the EBB, make sure and do it's initial flash over USB, instructions differ slightly depending on which revision you have:
After you've done the initial flash with CanBoot, you can remove USB from the EBB and connect up your 4 wires, power up the printer, and continue to flashing klipper to the EBB

Leave the Octopus connected to the Pi however you currently have it connected
 
West3D has a pretty decent video on setting up a Canbus. You can find the video here on YouTube.
It was because of their quality videos that I made a purchase with them (Rapido).

Edit: Check out the information section directly below the video. Allen has several helpful links there.
 
I am not sure if I connect this directly to my Raspberry Pi 4B, or to the BIGTREETECH BTT Octopus or if I need anything else.
According to the most recent documentation (referenced in @staticanime's post), you do not need (nor want) to connect the Canbus to the Rpi. It should be connected to the Octopus directly and the updated firmware installed.
I am at this point in my new Voron 2.4r build, so I hope to have the Canbus installed by the end of this week or close to it. I really do not want to run a slew of wires to my toolhead only to tear them out in a few weeks and install the Canbus. It has been somewhat of an uphill slog for me, especially since I am using an Orange Pi, but I seem to have that working. I have learned more about electronics in the last month than I have in my entire lifetime, and I am not young!
 
According to the most recent documentation (referenced in @staticanime's post), you do not need (nor want) to connect the Canbus to the Rpi. It should be connected to the Octopus directly and the updated firmware installed.
I am at this point in my new Voron 2.4r build, so I hope to have the Canbus installed by the end of this week or close to it. I really do not want to run a slew of wires to my toolhead only to tear them out in a few weeks and install the Canbus. It has been somewhat of an uphill slog for me, especially since I am using an Orange Pi, but I seem to have that working. I have learned more about electronics in the last month than I have in my entire lifetime, and I am not young!
LOL, I bet I have you bet on the "I am not young!" thing. I don't know how the younger crowd manages full time jobs and have time left over to build a Voron. I feel like I have a full time job, even though I'm retired, building this printer. I have learned a lot and I believe it keeps my brain cells firing.

Please come back here with updates on your Canbus experince. I'm waiting on hardware, but hope to get started on this as soon as it arrives.
 
I had CAN bus working with a Huvud and UTOC-1, I have since installed Hark's SB2040 Canbus toolhead with UTOC-1 and I did struggle a bit getting it working. Two biggest hang ups for me was not holding the reset button while booting the SB2040 for long enough while booting for a flash. It should be about 3 seconds or longer. I was waiting until I saw a light on the board and then would release the button, that was wrong.
The second issue was my bootloader on my Octopus got corrupt some how. This was a little hard to trouble shoot but in the end I had to reload the bootloader to get things working.
 
Please come back here with updates on your Canbus experince. I'm waiting on hardware, but hope to get started on this as soon as it arrives.
@LoadMaster7 So, I called my favorite vendor (KB3D) and talked to Kris for a bit regarding the Canbus. Apparently, there have been issues regarding the Canbus hardware on the tool head with a higher-than-normal failure rate. The Canbus tool head is currently being reworked slightly, and hence, why very few vendors have them in stock. Kris anticipated receiving the new models within a few weeks, so I have decided to hold off until the new batch comes in.
However, I ordered the Tap kit from him, which should be here by the end of the week.

Just curious, what were you a loadmaster on?
I worked for the largest fractional aircraft provider for 15 years until a medical issue forced me out. I spent most of my career covering the Western Hemisphere in a Hawker 800XP, hence my screen name.
 
@LoadMaster7 So, I called my favorite vendor (KB3D) and talked to Kris for a bit regarding the Canbus. Apparently, there have been issues regarding the Canbus hardware on the tool head with a higher-than-normal failure rate. The Canbus tool head is currently being reworked slightly, and hence, why very few vendors have them in stock. Kris anticipated receiving the new models within a few weeks, so I have decided to hold off until the new batch comes in.
However, I ordered the Tap kit from him, which should be here by the end of the week.

Just curious, what were you a loadmaster on?
I worked for the largest fractional aircraft provider for 15 years until a medical issue forced me out. I spent most of my career covering the Western Hemisphere in a Hawker 800XP, hence my screen name.
Thanks for the update on the Canbus. I am hoping what I have on order is a good design. I know it is the latest revision from BTT EBB 36 version 2.1. We shall see.

The Loadmaster comes from me being an instructor in the proper process of reloading ammo. That said, I have a aviation history as well. I started my working career as an A&P working for a number of parts carriers using DC3's, C46's, DC6's, DC7's, and may others. I am also a pilot. I ended up work in mechanical engineering for one of the largest automakers for 35+ years. My last position and a sweet spot in my memory, Lead Noise and Vibration Engineer for Performance Vehicle Powertrain. It allowed me to work with some amazing vehicles and people.

The closest I have come to working on a Hawker would be Lear 23 and 24.
 
Thanks for the update on the Canbus. I am hoping what I have on order is a good design. I know it is the latest revision from BTT EBB 36 version 2.1. We shall see.
@LoadMaster7 That one you have on order is the latest and greatest, according to Kris, so you should be ready to go once you receive it.

Ahhh, You have been around some good 'ole birds!
It sounds like you had an awesome career. I am somewhat of a gearhead so I can appreciate your work!
 
Yep, looks like a QC issue with the 24v PCB for TAP.

One other thing to look out for is all the terminology or key words such as CanBoot, Canbus, Can to Bridge and so on.

Lead noise and Vibration Engineer! I would at a Tier 1 auto supplier in IT and I want to show our NVH lab input shaper. I am sure thy would find it fascinating.
 
Yep, looks like a QC issue with the 24v PCB for TAP.

One other thing to look out for is all the terminology or key words such as CanBoot, Canbus, Can to Bridge and so on.

Lead noise and Vibration Engineer! I would at a Tier 1 auto supplier in IT and I want to show our NVH lab input shaper. I am sure thy would find it fascinating.
NoGuru, I've been retired almost 13 years now. Before I left, we had portable units with up to 64 channels to measure with small amplified accelerometers. They were expensive but worked extremely well to capture and analyze issues. Input shaping isn't new. It's been used for years. Some of the first automotive uses include cabin noise cancellation. Other uses include enhancement of "good engine" sounds, using the cars sound system. It is widely used in the automotive industry now. Chances are, your NVH lab folks know all about it, or a flavor of it. (y)
 
LOL, I bet I have you bet on the "I am not young!" thing. I don't know how the younger crowd manages full time jobs and have time left over to build a Voron. I feel like I have a full time job, even though I'm retired, building this printer. I have learned a lot and I believe it keeps my brain cells firing.

Please come back here with updates on your Canbus experince. I'm waiting on hardware, but hope to get started on this as soon as it arrives.
I know the feeling. I'm at retirement age, but I'm still working. As I was calling it a night for the Voron, I was thinking I don't have time for a day job. A Voron is a full time hobby.
 
Still can't get my canbus to work! I have tried the ebb36 connected to the octopus rj11 port, a u2c board, and a waveshare can hat. So maybe I killed the ebb36 somehow? I am thinking about getting another ebb36 or would a different board be better?
 
Still can't get my canbus to work! I have tried the ebb36 connected to the octopus rj11 port, a u2c board, and a waveshare can hat. So maybe I killed the ebb36 somehow? I am thinking about getting another ebb36 or would a different board be better?
When you flash the EBB do you see the UUID?
 
That is probably the easiest way. There is a command to see the UUID if you are SSH into the PI.
Read this guide as well as Maz0rs. This one from cruiten seperates CANbus and CANboot so it might be a little easier to see what you are trying to do even if it is for the SB2040.
The real thing to look out for and to get things working is the MAKE. Make sure the settings you select are correct for your board (EBB) and that the communication interface is the one you want to use.
 
Everyone please see issue 44 on the canboot github for a fix for the u2c not allowing CAN flashing to the EBB. BTT has an updated firmware that I tested and verified working. https://github.com/Arksine/CanBoot/issues/44

For anyone who wants to reproduce this.
  1. Download the file from bigtreetech comment
    Code:
    wget https://github.com/Arksine/CanBoot/files/10410265/G0B1_U2C_V2.zip
  2. Stop klipper
    Code:
    sudo systemctl stop klipper
  3. Bring down the can interface
    Code:
    sudo ifdown can0
  4. Unzip the firmware file from bigtreetech
    Code:
    unzip G0B1_U2C_V2.zip
  5. Unplug the u2c controller from usb
  6. Press and hold the boot button on the u2c and plug the usb cable back in, then release the boot button.
  7. Verify that the u2c is in dfu mode
    Code:
    dfu-util -l
    You should see lines that contain
    Code:
    Found DFU: [0483:df11]
  8. Flash the new firmware to the u2c
    Code:
    dfu-util -D G0B1_U2C_V2.bin -d 0483:df11 -a 0 -s 0x08000000:leave
  9. Unplug and replug in the usb cable for the u2c to reset it
  10. The CAN interface should now be back up, if not
    Code:
    sudo ifup can0
  11. Follow the steps to compile and flash canboot to the EBB
  12. Follow the steps to compile and flash klipper over CAN
  13. Start klipper
    Code:
    sudo systemctl start klipper
* Edited to format the commands
 
Last edited:
Sorry if I am missing it but do you have a link to the other guide you referred to? I have been following maz0rs but can't get the UUID. Maybe a different one will help.
 
Top