Question CANbus and umbilical mods

[nerevar]

Printer Model

Voron 2.4 350

Extruder Type

Clockwork 2

Cooling Type

Stealthburner

Hello,

After a 5th wire break in 2 years I decided its time for an umbilical mod.

Voron 2.4 350 with Spider v2.2 board, CW2, Steathburner and a square extruder motor.
What turned out to be most reliable, CANbus or USB Nitehawk?

I need a suggestion what to buy.
If I go with CANbus then what do I need? I was thinking BIGTREETECH EBB SB2209. Do I need the BIGTREETECH U2C V2.1 Adapter Board and Canbus Expander for Fysetc Spider v2.3 ?
If I go with Nitehawk then what do I need?

Current setup pics:

Ty in advance

 

[NoGuru]

Both are great options. Seems like more people favor CAN bus but I like USB better for simplicity and with the new Nitehawk I can run my Beacon USB cable to the toolhead.
This is for the round pancake motor but it's the better version, https://www.fabreeko.com/collection...-for-round-pancake-motors-usb-toolhead-by-ldo
This is the other version https://www.fabreeko.com/collections/ldo/products/nitehawk-sb-toolhead-by-ldo

I don't know much about the spider board to know if it has a CAN port but if not you would need both the toolhead board and the U2C to make a CAN network.

 

[nerevar]

Both are great options. Seems like more people favor CAN bus but I like USB better for simplicity and with the new Nitehawk I can run my Beacon USB cable to the toolhead.
This is for the round pancake motor but it's the better version, https://www.fabreeko.com/collection...-for-round-pancake-motors-usb-toolhead-by-ldo
This is the other version https://www.fabreeko.com/collections/ldo/products/nitehawk-sb-toolhead-by-ldo

I don't know much about the spider board to know if it has a CAN port but if not you would need both the toolhead board and the U2C to make a CAN network.

Sorry, what is a Beacon USB cable and why is it better? Unfortunately I have a square pancake motor so I cant use new Nitehawk.

 

[NoGuru]

Beacon Probe is an Eddy current probe scanner, much faster and more accurate them most probes today.
CAN boards and Nitehawk boards mount the same way. I think you can mount the other Nitehawk version I linked with your setup but you will have to research.
Another alternative is to upgrade the extruder to Galileo2.

 

[nerevar]

For now I wasn't planing on a probe upgrade as I'm satisfied with inductive one (only 1 burned out so far).
For the CANbus/Nitehawk, I'm suprised the information is so scarce for voron, especialy those (older) boards.
The chain cable system proved to be (for me) very unreliable and a main weakness

 

[L3DVP]

I'm kind of a newbie here on the forum and Voron but Voron 2.4 R2 Pro kit with the Manta M8P V1.1 and EBB SB2209 CAN (RP2040) I've managed to build and I'm very happy with the machine.

 

[RocknRolla]

I went EBB SB2209 using built-in CAN bus to Manta M8P. At this point, I can't recommend it due to what appears to be an ESD issue on BTT/BIQU's EBB SB2209 and EBB SB2040 boards. There is a relatively easy fix that I am just now implementing... Will not be able to confirm it until I've tested it. But prior to the fix (which is to ground the extruder motor), I was only able to print reliably for anything up to about 10 hours. Beyond that though, I would get an error about half the time and Klipper would shut down.

Research shows that this is common enough to be wary of. My own guess is that it is more likely to crash the longer the print has to build up static electricity (or the drier the air is, which increases the ability to produce static). So there are areas of the world, printer setups and usage patterns that may be immune to the problem, making it appear to be user or build error when it happens. But there are enough people who have had the problem, and had it go away with a grounding-related fix, that I believe it is in fact an issue with those boards.

I have no idea about the reliability of the relatively new USB solution(s), but "unknown reliability" beats "known to be problematic". So I would try the USB option.

 

[L3DVP]

Yesterday I've updated my Voron 2.4 R2 Pro with Bigtreetech Manta M8P V2. Iḿ still using EBB SB2240_2209 CAN V1.0 but I also want to upgrade to Bigtreetech Btt Cb2 .
At start building the kit it was pretty hard with no Voron experience but a long the way it was getting more and more fun. The upgrade I did in just a few hours and my printer is up and running again and I'm confident it will be just as good as my Creality Ender 6 or even better.

 

[Aeronut]

I spent more than two complete days trying to get two different CAN setups to work - always failed at the software DFU mode install. Abandoned that and fitted the LDO Nitehawk USB setup, had it up and running in a couple of hours, ignoring time taken to print parts. I've encountered two separate issues - firstly, I can't get the SB Neopixels to work - don't know why. Secondly, the toolhead umbilical plug has worked loose on a couple of long prints, giving an error, but a dab of hot glue seems to have fixed that.

 

[L3DVP]

I have to say aldo I have canbus with tab and everything working I'm getting nuts from quad gantry level every print.

 

[NoGuru]

I spent more than two complete days trying to get two different CAN setups to work - always failed at the software DFU mode install. Abandoned that and fitted the LDO Nitehawk USB setup, had it up and running in a couple of hours, ignoring time taken to print parts. I've encountered two separate issues - firstly, I can't get the SB Neopixels to work - don't know why. Secondly, the toolhead umbilical plug has worked loose on a couple of long prints, giving an error, but a dab of hot glue seems to have fixed that.

Any cables that come to the toolhead need to have a second anchor point like a relief from moving. I tend to zip tie mine an 10-20mm from where it attaches.

 

[L3DVP]

I've updated Voron tap 1.0 to Chaoticlab Cnc Voron Tap V2.0, that's a huge difference better magnets too. Just to let you know.

 

[Durahl]

Hello,

After a 5th wire break in 2 years I decided its time for an umbilical mod.

Voron 2.4 350 with Spider v2.2 board, CW2, Steathburner and a square extruder motor.
What turned out to be most reliable, CANbus or USB Nitehawk?

I need a suggestion what to buy.
If I go with CANbus then what do I need? I was thinking BIGTREETECH EBB SB2209. Do I need the BIGTREETECH U2C V2.1 Adapter Board and Canbus Expander for Fysetc Spider v2.3 ?
If I go with Nitehawk then what do I need?

Current setup pics:
View attachment 4988View attachment 4989View attachment 4990
Ty in advance

I'll have you know that going CAN is still not Wireless thus not solving the problem of cable breakage if the type of cable you use is still the same you used before making the switch to CAN

MY personal recommendation for wiring pretty much anything in a Voron but the Gantry Cables in particular would be Helukabel - Get yourself 0.25mm² for most stuff and some 0.5mm² for Power Wires / HV-Stepper Motors - I never had a Cable break on me even before rebuilding my V2.4 with them and so far this has held true still.
Just be warned that you'll curse both me and yourself while trying to crimp these PTFE Cables as theyr sheathing is slipper AF and thus not easy to handle while adding the tiny Crimps to them - In particular the Stepper Motor ones ( the ones that directly connect to a Stepper without a Pigtail )
I'd also suggest investing into the Engineer PAD-11 Crimper which so far has produced the best and most reliable results when it came to crimping Voron Stuff.

 

[m00dawg]

Beacon Probe is an Eddy current probe scanner, much faster and more accurate them most probes today.
CAN boards and Nitehawk boards mount the same way. I think you can mount the other Nitehawk version I linked with your setup but you will have to research.
Another alternative is to upgrade the extruder to Galileo2.

Resurrecting a somewhat old thread, sorry! This caught me eye though and thought I would see if you might be able to clarify a bit. I have G2's in both my Trident and 2.4. I run a Beacon on my Trident (with a somewhat makeshift setup to run the Beacon cable up via the filament PTFE tube). I really want to add a Beacon to my 2.4 but have been trying to figure out how to organize everything. In fact I have both a BTT Canbus kit _and_ a Nitehawk SB kit sitting here while I've been scratching my head over this

I thought the Nitehawk 36 was basically only for V0 style setups but if I'm understanding you correctly, it sounds like I could just bolt the NH36 onto the back of the G2 extruder motor much like a V0? I know this might be somewhat moot right now due to the NH36 being unavailable but thought I'd ask just the same. Otherwise I'm trying to figure out ways I can run both the USB or CAN cabling while running the Beacon cable and I'm not sure of the best solution.