Converting my 2.4 from 2 motor to 4 motor.

[NoGuru]

This is great! Is it still going or has it changed? Also, what blue did you use with that printer? That's a killer blue!

Printer works great! I sort of think for me the 4 motor drive system is overkill since I don't print as fast as possible and you do loose a little space in the front.
I think I was using 3DXTech ASA blue for this build https://www.3dxtech.com/products/3dxmax-r-asa?_pos=1&_fid=41f631ee8&_ss=c&variant=43809008844853

 

[PrintMeUpScotty]

Thank you!

 

[Dwyaki95]

how?….….. could?….. should?…. Maybe…… … honey!! We got a problem….

 

[NoGuru]

how?….….. could?….. should?…. Maybe…… … honey!! We got a problem….

Funny but with those motors 2 would be more then enough torque and precision.

 

[vorondesignlover]

Oh, and street cred. Since just building a Voron isn't good enough anymore.

We're discussing about this and other mods here. I suppose you means that, as of now, a stock Voron lose the battle against Bambulab, is that right? A Voron without any mods makes no sense, but I hoped it was at least on pair with Bambus

 

[vorondesignlover]

Here is a short video of a speed benchy starting. The bed is up to temp so the start is at the QGL

The video is amazing although is very hard to understand the differences: even vorons with lightest mods still look very fast. If you manage to repair and reinstall your Rapido V2 UHF it would be very interesting to print the same model here and in your X1C and see the completion times along with the quality of the print.
I expect the Voron to be the clear winner, but if the X1C ends up to be pretty close, than I can at least say the Voron is much cheaper and allows bigger prints. Still the better choice (I think).

 

[NoGuru]

The video is amazing although is very hard to understand the differences: even vorons with lightest mods still look very fast. If you manage to repair and reinstall your Rapido V2 UHF it would be very interesting to print the same model here and in your X1C and see the completion times along with the quality of the print.
I expect the Voron to be the clear winner, but if the X1C ends up to be pretty close, than I can at least say the Voron is much cheaper and allows bigger prints. Still the better choice (I think).

The Rapido UHF is $100 and the Bambu hotend is $35. I only get a little more flow from the UHF and if it breaks, clogs or fails in anyway, its not worth it to me.
The Voron cost more then the Bambu labs X1C with AMS.

But they are just differant printers. One is more fun to build and mod and one just works out of box without much intervention.

 

[vorondesignlover]

The Rapido UHF is $100 and the Bambu hotend is $35. I only get a little more flow from the UHF and if it breaks, clogs or fails in anyway, its not worth it to me.

I can get Rapido for around $70 if I have the patience to wait for the right deal and probably around $25 for the bambu. There's an huge difference.

Regarding breakability I really can't comment, you're the only one I've heard with such experience. You didn't provided the details I asked for in the other thread, so looks like when such stuff breaks is very difficult to determine the cause. Will try to investigate, but without further details I should consider this as in isolate case and, as such, a one time only purchase which needs to be repeated at the end of the life cycle it has been designed for.

I'm very surprised you only get a little more flow:

Feature	Rapido UHF	Bambu Lab X1C Hotend
Type	Open-source, ultra high flow	Proprietary, compact all-in-one
Max Flow Rate	~65 mm³/s (up to 75 mm³/s)	~20–30 mm³/s
Nozzle Swapping	Requires wrench (Revo-style or standard)	Tool-free (quick swap nozzle units)
Filament Compatibility	Full range: PLA, ABS, ASA, PC, CF, etc.	Most standard filaments, incl. some composites
Max Temperature	350–500°C (UHF supports high-temp plastics)	~300°C (firmware-limited)
Heater Power	60–90 W cartridge heater	Integrated low-wattage ceramic heater
Sensor Support	PT1000, thermistor (configurable)	Built-in thermistor
Compatibility	Mounts on Voron, RatRig, etc.	Only works with Bambu printers (X1C, P1P, etc.)
Build Format	All-metal, single-piece melt zone	Swappable core with short melt zone
Cooling Design	High-performance, active fan cooling	Compact blower fan design

The Rapido wins basically in everything and Bambu Lab can't even compete in flow rate. I'm left with two only possible explanations:

• Rapido manufacturers advertises fake specs
• There is some flaw in your setup

If what you say is really what to expect from a "Voron with RUHF vs Voron with X1C hotend", then I'm not sure it worth. Remains only the higher temperature and related filament compatibility. A great bonus for sure, but alone is not enough to justify so much extra money.
I must admit you left me with big doubts about Rapido.

The Voron cost more then the Bambu labs X1C with AMS.

I didn't checked the parts needed. This is a kind of mod that can only be evaluated from an existing user which knows every details of the printer along with the costs he faced to complete the build. For sure, it will be a big NO if is going to be more expensive than the X1C.

But they are just differant printers. One is more fun to build and mod and one just works out of box without much intervention.

This is where I've heard the most conflicting opinions at the time I've investigate on the matter. Many users stated that Bambulabs work out of the box without much intervention with the Voron continuosly requiring intervention. However, many other Voron users stated they didn't faced anything of this and highlighted the fact that mainly depends from how the printer has been optimized and built.
I think we're in a field where there's not a clear winner, it is strictly tied to the attitude the user takes when he is going to build.

 

[NoGuru]

I don't think you are wrong going with the Rapido UHF, its a decent hotend. It was just want not right for me.

Yes, no clear winner. I remember switching to CANbus way back when people first started to implement it because I had a wire break in my loom.
Many people print for years with no wire breaks and some only make it a few days. It depends on the material and the skill of the installer.

 

[vorondesignlover]

I don't think you are wrong going with the Rapido UHF, its a decent hotend. It was just want not right for me.

Yes, no clear winner. I remember switching to CANbus way back when people first started to implement it because I had a wire break in my loom.
Many people print for years with no wire breaks and some only make it a few days. It depends on the material and the skill of the installer.

There is an interesting discussion here. Apparentlly, although X1C hotend is still good, the flow is not even close to a Rapido HF (not UHF). So, the Rapido is the only choice when maximum performance is the main goal.

Yes, it will take time and trials before the printer will start to work as one expect and, frankly speaking, this is where part of the fun resides.