Solved Front right idler rubbing Z belt / swapping idler parts

[MrMitnick]

Printer Model

Voron 2.4.r2 Rev.C LDO kit

Extruder Type

Clockwork 2

Cooling Type

Stealthburner

Hi everyone,

i noticed that every time i am doing a QGL there seems to be something wrong with my front right idler. When i got my PIF parts, during the build i noticed that i was sent the wrong upper part for the right idler. So i asked a mate if he could print me one on his Voron 0.1. The print wasnt that great but it seemed it would do the job. However as you can see in the included photo i have something rubbing the Z belt on that same side. The left side is fine.

Is there a way to swap out this part without taking apart the entire gantry?

Thanks!
Pepijn

 

[NoGuru]

Sure you can swap out without taking out the Gantry. But more importantly, why is this rubbing? I would really inspect the belt path to make sure you know what part is causing issue. Might have something not lined up correctly.

 

[MrMitnick]

Sure you can swap out without taking out the Gantry. But more importantly, why is this rubbing? I would really inspect the belt path to make sure you know what part is causing issue. Might have something not lined up correctly.

oh yes i will definitely check the beltpath, but the fact that this one part looked so horrible was bugging me.

 

[NoGuru]

oh yes i will definitely check the beltpath, but the fact that this one part looked so horrible was bugging me.

Is the frayed part on the edge of the belt or all of that same area?
That black piece looks like it is way under extruded or at least the top layer is but I don't see how that would cause issue.

 

[MrMitnick]

Is the frayed part on the edge of the belt or all of that same area?
That black piece looks like it is way under extruded or at least the top layer is but I don't see how that would cause issue.

its across the whole belt, i can see some fraying on both belts on the right side. I guess they are rubbing against each other, i can also see some translation of movement in both belts. Once my current print finishes, i will have a look at taking apart the idler. I guess i have to undo the z belt on that side, and then i can take the top of the idler?

 

[MrMitnick]

I found the issue, and it was a mistake on my part. I had my Z belt in between the other belt. So the tooth part of the belts was rubbing against each other. It was difficult to notice, and the printer worked with that config, but obviously thats not how its supposed to go together!

 

[NoGuru]

Ahh yes, I know what you are talking about. I didn't have much luck with those idlers and I changed to the Ramala idlers with great success. But you have to be dialed in to print the tolerances.

 

[MrMitnick]

yeah i have a feeling my printer is not up to par yet, having issues with the first layer. I want to swap the Omron to klickyNG. But i have no idea what to print for that.

 

[NoGuru]

yeah i have a feeling my printer is not up to par yet, having issues with the first layer. I want to swap the Omron to klickyNG. But i have no idea what to print for that.

I haven't used a klicky in a while but you need a dock, toolhead mount and they the sled that holds the switch.....I think that is all.
TAP is about $50 if you buy a kit and Beacon is $70 I think, not sure what Klicky cost to build.

 

[MrMitnick]

I haven't used a klicky in a while but you need a dock, toolhead mount and they the sled that holds the switch.....I think that is all.
TAP is about $50 if you buy a kit and Beacon is $70 I think, not sure what Klicky cost to build.

Klicky was included in my LDO kit. I found a video that has all the parts for KlickyNG in the description so i will try that. TAP looks a bit better though.
Yesterday i found out i had something in my start Gcode that messed up my first layer. So i am back at the stock start gcode for now. This stuff is not easy if you are new, thats for sure.