Inverted Electronics for my newly ordered LDO Trident 300 kit?

[ArtyBlartfast]

Hi All,
I just ordered during this Labor Day Sale an LDO RevC kit from West3d for a Trident 300 cube.
Now I'm reading comments and I see several ppl saying the "Inverted Electronics" mod is almost mandatory.
Is it really that useful, and will it require different parts (I ordered the printed parts from West3D also)
Am I screwed? Should I just build it without inverted electronics?
Thanks for advice!

 

[individ]

It's definitely not mandatory by any means. If you build without the mod, there are alternative feet for the trident that makes it easier to turn the printer on it's back. I've seen several prople swear by it (but I don't have a name/link)

I'm building my ldo trident 300 with inverted electronics though.

 

[individ]

Editing posts don't seem to take effect? It might be that the rocknroll feet only fit on 2.4, I'm not sure

 

[claudermilk]

Definitely not mandatory. I'm in no hurry to tear my printer apart to add it.

A lot (most) of V2.4 mods work on a Trident. I *think* the rocknroll feet should work. I've looked at that mod, but haven't gotten around to trying it out yet.

 

[WhiteWulfe]

I've heard it's fairly handy, and I plan on doing it to my Trident at some point, as it would be nice to be able to get into the electronics bay without having to roll 60lbs of printer over.

VoronUsers/printer_mods/LoganFraser/TridentInvertedElectronics at master · VoronDesign/VoronUsers

Voron Community mods, slicer profiles and firmware configurations. - VoronDesign/VoronUsers

github.com

 

[ArtyBlartfast]

I'm sold.
That gif makes it pretty clear how useful this mod is.
I'm going to see if I can add this instruction to my order of the printed parts.
Thank you all!

 

[nox]

I included the mod when building my LDO Trident. A first printer build for me.

Have had to get into the electronics a couple of times since then. Has been convenient. Happy I did it.

 

[ArtyBlartfast]

Okay, West3d is great. They modded my order with no charge.
>>>
>>>We can absolutely do that for you, don't worry about the extra charge.
>>>Best,
>>>Aaron

 

[pajtaz]

Maybe I'm too late to add my thoughts but I do not think inverted electronics mod is a good idea. I did it on the first Trident and it is now more of a pain than on the second Trident where I went with stock electronics. I have put thick insulation on the deck panel to get higher chamber temps and if the electronics is inverted, I have to rip off parts of the insulation to lift the panel. Even then the panel can only be removed if the bed is almost touching the nozzle. Additionally once you have your printer running, you will rarely go below deck and if you do, stock way of doing it is fine.

 

[ArtyBlartfast]

Maybe I'm too late to add my thoughts but I do not think inverted electronics mod is a good idea. I did it on the first Trident and it is now more of a pain than on the second Trident where I went with stock electronics. I have put thick insulation on the deck panel to get higher chamber temps and if the electronics is inverted, I have to rip off parts of the insulation to lift the panel. Even then the panel can only be removed if the bed is almost touching the nozzle. Additionally once you have your printer running, you will rarely go below deck and if you do, stock way of doing it is fine.

I understand the insulation gets in the way, but I don't understand why you can't lift the panel unless the nozzle is very close to it.
Do you have a picture of this to share? I still haven't even gotten my plastic parts yet, so there's time to change my plan.

 

[Sanity Agathion]

I understand the insulation gets in the way, but I don't understand why you can't lift the panel unless the nozzle is very close to it.
Do you have a picture of this to share? I still haven't even gotten my plastic parts yet, so there's time to change my plan.

The bed needs to be all the way up, else there is no room to lift and remove the panel.

 

[ArtyBlartfast]

The bed needs to be all the way up, else there is no room to lift and remove the panel.

Aahhh, I see now. This part doesn't bother me, I'd rather be able to lift the panel then have to turn the whole unit on its side. (Space Limitations)

As for the insulation, since heat rises, I don't know that putting insulation on top of the panel is going to help much. It's like putting a tiny space heater on the floor in a basement and hoping that the attic gets warmer. How much heat can possibly be escaping out of the bottom of the enclosure, anyway?
Is it possible to attach the insulation to the bottom of the bed? That way when the bed's at the top, you're only worried about the most compact volume possible.
(It's like moving that space heater directly to the floor of the attic in my above example)
In fact, at any point during the print, your thermal interest is always minimized to the least extent.
That would also eliminate the problem of accessing the panel.

If my idea is blatantly idiotic, please forgive, I haven't built any vorons yet.

 

[pajtaz]

Aahhh, I see now. This part doesn't bother me, I'd rather be able to lift the panel then have to turn the whole unit on its side. (Space Limitations)

As for the insulation, since heat rises, I don't know that putting insulation on top of the panel is going to help much. It's like putting a tiny space heater on the floor in a basement and hoping that the attic gets warmer. How much heat can possibly be escaping out of the bottom of the enclosure, anyway?
Is it possible to attach the insulation to the bottom of the bed? That way when the bed's at the top, you're only worried about the most compact volume possible.
(It's like moving that space heater directly to the floor of the attic in my above example)
In fact, at any point during the print, your thermal interest is always minimized to the least extent.
That would also eliminate the problem of accessing the panel.

If my idea is blatantly idiotic, please forgive, I haven't built any vorons yet.

Sanity explained about lifting the panel, you get that now. Bed needs to be all the way up.

As for insulating the deck panel, it keeps the heat away from electronics. Otherwise lots of heat will go to the electronics area since that deck panel is not sealed and ACM and not very thick. Additionally, any heat is reflected towards the top since there is a reflective foil on the 10mm foam. It helps ... a lot. It helps with insulating electronics and with keeping warm air inside the printer.

Just FYI, I can hit 80C chamber temp with 105C bed, heck maybe even with 100C bed.

 

[YAOG]

Aahhh, I see now. This part doesn't bother me, I'd rather be able to lift the panel then have to turn the whole unit on its side. (Space Limitations)

As for the insulation, since heat rises, I don't know that putting insulation on top of the panel is going to help much. It's like putting a tiny space heater on the floor in a basement and hoping that the attic gets warmer. How much heat can possibly be escaping out of the bottom of the enclosure, anyway?
Is it possible to attach the insulation to the bottom of the bed? That way when the bed's at the top, you're only worried about the most compact volume possible.
(It's like moving that space heater directly to the floor of the attic in my above example)
In fact, at any point during the print, your thermal interest is always minimized to the least extent.
That would also eliminate the problem of accessing the panel.

If my idea is blatantly idiotic, please forgive, I haven't built any vorons yet.

Arty,

Ignore the naysayers and build your Trident the way you want it. I ordered a LDO Trident 300mm cube and the nice folks at West3D included the inverted electronics mod printed parts at my request NC. The electronics may or may not need to be accessed often but if you are like most of us you will be upgrading something in there sooner than later especially with the new Nitehawk toolboard being released. The video clip demonstrates that the panel is easy to pop in and out and AFAIK not everybody need to use insulation as not everybody lives in snow country and prints ABS and higher hear materials exclusively.

 

[majic79]

I built mine with inverted electronics - it was simple to do and makes accessing the electronics bay easy (I too have a space constraint, so flipping the printer is a non-trivial task. I've not checked the temperatures in the bay (need to add the section to printer.cfg to monitor MCU and/or Pi temps - on my todo list) but I've had no issues without any additional insulation (my workshop is at around 15C at the moment and my chamber ambient is around 45-50 on a print. I used a spare output on the octopus to use the chamber exhaust fan as a means to cool the chamber by drawing in air from outside, but it's never cut in when I set the limit at 65 (let's see what the summer months bring when the temperature rises!)

 

[netzwerg]

I built one Trident without inverted electronics and the second one with inverted electronics.

I really prefer the version without inverted electronics. I have attached these parts (https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/545-rocknroll/) to throw the printer on the backside easily. This way I have the electronics bay open in 1 minute.

With the inverted electronics I have a lot less space for my hands and arms to fiddle around. Much easier with access from the bottom.

 

[Sanity Agathion]

I built one Trident without inverted electronics and the second one with inverted electronics.

I really prefer the version without inverted electronics. I have attached these parts (https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/545-rocknroll/) to throw the printer on the backside easily. This way I have the electronics bay open in 1 minute.

With the inverted electronics I have a lot less space for my hands and arms to fiddle around. Much easier with access from the bottom.

If I may, use direct link to author's Githuib rather than teamfdm https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/RockNLol/RockNRoll

 

[YAOG]

I built mine with inverted electronics - it was simple to do and makes accessing the electronics bay easy (I too have a space constraint, so flipping the printer is a non-trivial task. I've not checked the temperatures in the bay (need to add the section to printer.cfg to monitor MCU and/or Pi temps - on my todo list) but I've had no issues without any additional insulation (my workshop is at around 15C at the moment and my chamber ambient is around 45-50 on a print. I used a spare output on the octopus to use the chamber exhaust fan as a means to cool the chamber by drawing in air from outside, but it's never cut in when I set the limit at 65 (let's see what the summer months bring when the temperature rises!)

I have a space limitation for the machine in my shop. The rocknroll rockers require much more benchtop space than the footprint of the printer. The other issues are the rocknroll rockers puts the plane of the electronics up and down at an uphill angle which makes it awkward to access and see the connectors and reduces light. I've been a computer tech for over 40 years and this is annoying as heck compared with the flat, conventional top down access of the inverted electronics bay. Access space is no smaller than the bottom bay, it is the same bay and the only way there could be more room is if the printer was on a cleared bench. AFAIK the only reason I will have to move the new Trident is to perform any major updates and I can't imagine what that might be.

 

[MagicToolbox]

I don't have a Trident, nor any plans to build one. What happens if the bed is halfway or more down the build volume and one or more of the Z-axis stops moving? There is no good way into the electronics bay for diagnostics and repair. A blown fuse, a failed power supply - anything that precludes moving the bed could mean a full disassembly rather than a quick tilt and repair.

My 2.4 has a remixed version of the rocknroll legs. It does require some space to tilt back, but I'm glad they are there.

 

[YAOG]

I don't have a Trident, nor any plans to build one. What happens if the bed is halfway or more down the build volume and one or more of the Z-axis stops moving? There is no good way into the electronics bay for diagnostics and repair. A blown fuse, a failed power supply - anything that precludes moving the bed could mean a full disassembly rather than a quick tilt and repair.

My 2.4 has a remixed version of the rocknroll legs. It does require some space to tilt back, but I'm glad they are there.

I would start out by diagnosing the issue the same way I would diagnose a Voron 2.4.xx with a stuck gantry. If the issue is not corrected by rebooting the firmware, rebooting the UI front-end or power cycling the printer's main power supply I would deploy the Mark I fingers to rotate the screws or pop the bed off which ever is more convenient for my configuration. It is no different than a standard electronics bay but it can be serviced in place without the need to make or maintain a enough space around the printer to lay it down or move it to a roomier surface to be worked on. I think the available space and how a printer is used has a lot to do with the choice to go inverted. For people who stack their printers the inverted electronics bay is the only in place service option unless you maintain a separate workbench. I don't imagine I will fiddle with it much once it is finished and tuned.