Issue w/ left side print quality

[Alan]

I just finished building my LDO 350 2.4. I need a few beers after that... It was A LOT more work than building my MK3. My first print (ABS) had poor adhesion to the LDO bed. (I didn't apply anything but just cleaned it well with alcohol). For 2nd print I used Kapton tape with ABS juice on top of that. So far the adhesion seems strong. Can ABS be printed reliably on the LDO textured bed without some type of adhesive applied to it?

The print quality from both prints on the left side is poor compared to the right side. It's worse in 0.2 than 0.1. First print was at 0.1 and 2nd 0.2 layer height, AMZ3D ABS, 240 nozzle, 110 bed & chamber at 57. There are unsupported overhangs on the back from where ridges are being created along the path of the nozzle way past the end of the overhang. Guessing maybe a few variables at work here beyond my pay grade. Prior to the Voron I basically just printed in PETG or PLA. Any suggestions beyond the Initial LDO setup tips to do? I just looked at the secondary tuning section and have not yet done the audio test for belt tensioning. Overall the ABS quality to me appears fair at best.

 

[NoGuru]

With such a large format printer you need to do a lot of tuning. I would put your focus on that for a good bit.
Go through the secondary tuning and this My Bible tuning guide.
It could also be the filament you are using.
As far as bed adhesion, make sure Z offset is well calibrated. Heatsoak for an hour if possible. And start slow, I make my first layer half the speed of my print.

 

[Alan]

Thanks or link. Did belt tensioning calibration and no significant change. My MK3 with a 0.6mm nozzle has better prints than my Voron with 0.4mm. Will work through the list to try to figure it out.

 

[NoGuru]

How did the extruder assembly go? Maybe take it apart and reassemble it to see if it helps.

 

[bythorsthunder]

I just finished building my LDO 350 2.4. I need a few beers after that... It was A LOT more work than building my MK3. My first print (ABS) had poor adhesion to the LDO bed. (I didn't apply anything but just cleaned it well with alcohol). For 2nd print I used Kapton tape with ABS juice on top of that. So far the adhesion seems strong. Can ABS be printed reliably on the LDO textured bed without some type of adhesive applied to it?

The print quality from both prints on the left side is poor compared to the right side. It's worse in 0.2 than 0.1. First print was at 0.1 and 2nd 0.2 layer height, AMZ3D ABS, 240 nozzle, 110 bed & chamber at 57. There are unsupported overhangs on the back from where ridges are being created along the path of the nozzle way past the end of the overhang. Guessing maybe a few variables at work here beyond my pay grade. Prior to the Voron I basically just printed in PETG or PLA. Any suggestions beyond the Initial LDO setup tips to do? I just looked at the secondary tuning section and have not yet done the audio test for belt tensioning. Overall the ABS quality to me appears fair at best.

The linked tuning guide is definitely going to help you. Most of the issues I see there should be fixed by tuning flow and upping your cooling.

 

[bythorsthunder]

Also take a look at the bed adhesion and first layer tuning sections in the guide. You shouldn't need any kapton tape or abs slurry for good adhesion with that bed. Clean the bed with dish soap and water too. That works way better than alcohol.

 

[Alan]

Adhesion issues were from poor Z offset consistency. I'd dial it in and on the next print have to change it +/- a lot. I started doing live Z offset for every print and now ABS sticks well. (I am also using AquaNet hairspray on the plate which is easy to do and working quite well.)

Can someone tell me what Unclicky sensor probe this is on this video? I want to dump the inductive sensor ASAP as it is pretty much guaranteed that if I don't manually tune Z while printing the brim the first layer is going to fail.

I didn't notice I had the Stealthburner upgrade kit in my LDO kit until I already built the Afterburner. I'll be swapping out the Afterburner along with the Z probe.

 

[NoGuru]

I would suggest going TAP instead of Klicky, Uncklicky, or Euclicd. My first layers have never been so good until I installed TAP.