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LDO hotend issues

Roman

Member
Printer Model
2.4 350
Extruder Type
Clockwork 2
Cooling Type
Stealthburner
I am trying to get my LDO 2.4 350 working and I have a issue where the wires for the hotend have to be flipped otherwise it causes a short. And when they are flipped they supply exesive amounts of power to the hotend without user input. On mainsail it says that the hotend is off while the temperature gauge is rocketing. It is a octopus 1.1 board with a revo voron hotend. Has anyone experienced this or know how to fix it thanks.
 
Hello, I am not sure what do you mean by "flipped wires". Revo heater wires are not polarized, it's a resistor. Are you talking about thermistor wires or heatercore wires?

Please triple-check you are connecting those to correct conectors on toolhead PCB, that your breakout board is also conected properly. If your hotend gets powered on without any input - after properly flashing firmware - the MOSFET may be blown. Try different heater output, but first triple-check you have everything connected properly. Also check if your thermistor's definition is correct.
 
Hello, I am not sure what do you mean by "flipped wires". Revo heater wires are not polarized, it's a resistor. Are you talking about thermistor wires or heatercore wires?

Please triple-check you are connecting those to correct conectors on toolhead PCB, that your breakout board is also conected properly. If your hotend gets powered on without any input - after properly flashing firmware - the MOSFET may be blown. Try different heater output, but first triple-check you have everything connected properly. Also check if your thermistor's definition is correct.
The thermistor works. I tried every HE port. The break out board only has one way to connect the wire. I'm talking about from the octopus 1.1 to the breakout that is where the wires are flipped. So if they are positive to positive and negative to negative then it shorts and the but as soon as I unplug those wires it immediately turns on. But it doesn't short if I have them positive to negative and negative to positive at least in wire form. The firmware has been flashed. When it plug the wire in it starts heating up and you can see that on mainsail yet it says that the hotend is not supposed to be on. It may be a problem with the octopus or breakout pcb because I don't have any fan power either even when I try to turn them on and they are plugged in. Thanks for your help so far
 
The thermistor works. I tried every HE port. The break out board only has one way to connect the wire. I'm talking about from the octopus 1.1 to the breakout that is where the wires are flipped. So if they are positive to positive and negative to negative then it shorts and the but as soon as I unplug those wires it immediately turns on. But it doesn't short if I have them positive to negative and negative to positive at least in wire form. The firmware has been flashed. When it plug the wire in it starts heating up and you can see that on mainsail yet it says that the hotend is not supposed to be on. It may be a problem with the octopus or breakout pcb because I don't have any fan power either even when I try to turn them on and they are plugged in. Thanks for your help so far
Would you mind posting a few pictures of your wiring, and detail on the breakout board?
 
Any kind of visual would help, but video sizes are limited so pictures can work better. There are many combinations of hardware so visuals help a lot.
 
I just read your previous post again. If you are using a breakout board system the polarity is absolutely crucial to be accurate and consistent throughout. The breakout boards will usually combine the bus voltage (24V or 12V) as the switching is always done on the negative side. If any one of the power or fan connections anywhere has polarity swapped it can cause unplanned behavior.
 
I just read your previous post again. If you are using a breakout board system the polarity is absolutely crucial to be accurate and consistent throughout. The breakout boards will usually combine the bus voltage (24V or 12V) as the switching is always done on the negative side. If any one of the power or fan connections anywhere has polarity swapped it can cause unplanned behavior.
I can check fan polarity th controller fans turned on when I move the gantry via console but the tool fans still don't. That could easily be it
 
I found the issue the y endstop has an issue and I think it is with the connection I will replace the connector in the morning. Thanks see yall tomorrow
 
So the issue is that the y endstop connection was bad between the octopus and the breakout board. In the times of trying to find the issue this killed the port on the break out. I checked the octopus connection by pluging in the x endstop to the y port and I did not get a short. And if you plug it y endstop wire into a different port on the breakout it doesn't short. So does anyone know how to contact LDO to get a new breakout board as it us custom made by LDO.
 
So the issue is that the y endstop connection was bad between the octopus and the breakout board. In the times of trying to find the issue this killed the port on the break out. I checked the octopus connection by pluging in the x endstop to the y port and I did not get a short. And if you plug it y endstop wire into a different port on the breakout it doesn't short. So does anyone know how to contact LDO to get a new breakout board as it us custom made by LDO.
That was wrong i had changed the connectors and plugged the breakout end into the wrong port thanks for everyone's help!
 
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