Question Most critical plastic part for quality prints?

[Dutchronnie]

Printer Model

Voron 2.4 r2

Extruder Type

Clockwork 2

Cooling Type

Stealthburner

i have almost complete my build of a LDO voron 2.4 kit. only the side panels have to be mounted.

I have already made my first prints, and they are very good.

I go for the best prints, and not for speed. all plastic parts i have printed with Esun ABS+ on a modded creality Cr-10 V2. which parts do i have to print again to reach a better quality print on the voron 2.4. most parts are pretty good. some have a little warp in the corners, but i think they are not effecting any quality.

maybe the plastic parts from the stealthburner and clockwork 2?

 

[Sandman50]

The little lever parts in the hot-end.

I had to shrink mine by 1-2% in the Z axis to get them to not bind. They work, and I haven't taken it apart to replace them yet. So YMMV.

The rest of the parts are basically static and if say a pulley is off by 0.2mm it's not going to matter. But if the extruder gear parts jam or don't move you can't extrude filament.

As they say, if your Voron wasn't printed on an Ender 3 inside a cardboard box, it's not a Voron.

 

[Dutchronnie]

all the parts i have printer did directie fit.
Th CR-10 i used is a good calibrated printer. i see pictures on the net of printed parts with a voron, but i can say that mine prints are better

but i am trying to get the best possible prints. so i think i Will reprint the extruder parts.



This was my first print on the voron, without any calibration. In my opinion it looks already good.

 

[tillin9]

Assuming your parts are dimensionally accurate (and you are getting good prints) - you probably do not need to reprint anything.

If you have a higher strength / stiffer material - I would advise reprinting the extruder latch parts, the front of the extruder (assuming CW2), and the X carriage - but mainly since those are the parts I have broken the most on my V2s over the years.

From a technical perspective the parts that are directly involved with motion are the most important - so if they are warped or not stiff - they would cause the most degradation of print quality. This would be the XY gantry joints, X carriage, and extruder body (mainly since there could be Z wobble if there is play with the carriage).

As there is overlap - and I do have CF-ABS, I reprinted my XY joints, X carriages, and extruder bodies. I didn't notice any difference between good regular ABS parts and the stiffer ones in print quality. It probably would be more worth your time to follow Ellis' guide and do a de-racking/ tuning cycle if you are chasing higher quality. However, I haven't broken any parts since I made the swap, which I consider a sufficient benefit to have warranted the effort.