Question Most critical plastic part for quality prints?

[Dutchronnie]

Printer Model

Voron 2.4 r2

Extruder Type

Clockwork 2

Cooling Type

Stealthburner

i have almost complete my build of a LDO voron 2.4 kit. only the side panels have to be mounted.

I have already made my first prints, and they are very good.

I go for the best prints, and not for speed. all plastic parts i have printed with Esun ABS+ on a modded creality Cr-10 V2. which parts do i have to print again to reach a better quality print on the voron 2.4. most parts are pretty good. some have a little warp in the corners, but i think they are not effecting any quality.

maybe the plastic parts from the stealthburner and clockwork 2?

 

[Sandman50]

The little lever parts in the hot-end.

I had to shrink mine by 1-2% in the Z axis to get them to not bind. They work, and I haven't taken it apart to replace them yet. So YMMV.

The rest of the parts are basically static and if say a pulley is off by 0.2mm it's not going to matter. But if the extruder gear parts jam or don't move you can't extrude filament.

As they say, if your Voron wasn't printed on an Ender 3 inside a cardboard box, it's not a Voron.

 

[Dutchronnie]

all the parts i have printer did directie fit.
Th CR-10 i used is a good calibrated printer. i see pictures on the net of printed parts with a voron, but i can say that mine prints are better

but i am trying to get the best possible prints. so i think i Will reprint the extruder parts.



This was my first print on the voron, without any calibration. In my opinion it looks already good.

 

[tillin9]

Assuming your parts are dimensionally accurate (and you are getting good prints) - you probably do not need to reprint anything.

If you have a higher strength / stiffer material - I would advise reprinting the extruder latch parts, the front of the extruder (assuming CW2), and the X carriage - but mainly since those are the parts I have broken the most on my V2s over the years.

From a technical perspective the parts that are directly involved with motion are the most important - so if they are warped or not stiff - they would cause the most degradation of print quality. This would be the XY gantry joints, X carriage, and extruder body (mainly since there could be Z wobble if there is play with the carriage).

As there is overlap - and I do have CF-ABS, I reprinted my XY joints, X carriages, and extruder bodies. I didn't notice any difference between good regular ABS parts and the stiffer ones in print quality. It probably would be more worth your time to follow Ellis' guide and do a de-racking/ tuning cycle if you are chasing higher quality. However, I haven't broken any parts since I made the swap, which I consider a sufficient benefit to have warranted the effort.

 

[Crashdown]

As has been said, if you used ABS+ material I would reprint the X carriage especially and most of the toolhead. At the very least so you have spares. With ABS+ the heatset inserts like to pull out from the carriage and extruder. That's where the most heat is and where ABS+ is not so great.

 

[tillin9]

As has been said, if you used ABS+ material I would reprint the X carriage especially and most of the toolhead. At the very least so you have spares. With ABS+ the heatset inserts like to pull out from the carriage and extruder. That's where the most heat is and where ABS+ is not so great.

I can recommend the square nut mod for the X carriage to address this problem. I kept having the headsets pull out (even from normal ABS), granted I was testing different extruders and extruder gears so cycled them a little more than would be "normal." Reprinting these in CF-ABS, I haven't had a break or pullout.

Printables

www.printables.com

 

[DustinSpeed]

ABS+ some people have issues some don't it's the inconsistency that makes us not recommend it. But to add to the list I would have a spare set of the ab motor mounts printed but maybe not use them unless they start to warp.

 

[Durahl]

i see pictures on the net of printed parts with a voron, but i can say that mine prints are better

"And I took that personally..."

Material is Fiberlogy ASA Black printed at 0.2mm Layer Height using a Bondtech CHT 0.4mm Nozzle fed by a Bondtech LGX Lite ( and assisted by my ERCFs Gear Stepper ).

IMHO, you'd probably want to ensure the for everything to be rigid ( no slop between Parts like the Carriage, Shroud and Extruder ) in the Tool Head Area and you should be golden as any slop in these parts will - I assume - have the biggest impact on print consistency. Also ensuring the Joints between the Flying Gantry and the Z-Axis not having any slop either should be a given - Not much use having a rigid Tool Head if the entire Gantry is sliding around - Personally, I've since migrated over to the GE5C Mod.

 

[MagicToolbox]

"And I took that personally..."

Material is Fiberlogy ASA Black printed at 0.2mm Layer Height using a Bondtech CHT 0.4mm Nozzle fed by a Bondtech LGX Lite ( and assisted by my ERCFs Gear Stepper ).

IMHO, you'd probably want to ensure the for everything to be rigid ( no slop between Parts like the Carriage, Shroud and Extruder ) in the Tool Head Area and you should be golden as any slop in these parts will - I assume - have the biggest impact on print consistency. Also ensuring the Joints between the Flying Gantry and the Z-Axis not having any slop either should be a given - Not much use having a rigid Tool Head if the entire Gantry is sliding around - Personally, I've since migrated over to the GE5C Mod.

Holy Flouff dude, that looks great!