All Metal 2.4 350mm Build with Chaoticlab Kits

[MichaelOToole]

Decided to build a second 2.4 (350mm) using Kits from chaoticlab's as they supply everything in individual kits.
My main aim here is to evaluate this approach and provide feedback on the kits/process so that others may gain from my experience.
I will post prices later in the post, so far it looks like it will cost less than my first build using LDO Kit & Chaoticlab CNC Parts...

Updated: 21 Jan 2026

These are the kits available:

• Voron 2.4 Electronics Kit (Set 1 - $295) Out of stock & Discontinued
• Voron 2.4 Full Cable Kit (Set 2 - $45)
• Voron 2.4 Full Fastener Kit (Set 3 - $56)
• Voron 2.4 Heated Bed Kit (Set 4 - $129)
• Voron 2.4 Motion Kit (Set 5 - $229)
• Voron 2.4 Panels Kit (Set 6 - $109)
• Voron 2.4 Frame Kit (Set 7 - $109)
• Voron 2.4 CNC Parts Kit V2.0 ($399 no tap)
• Voron 2.4 Tap V2 ($44.99)
• CNC Voron Tap Sensor V2 Module ($15.99)

The overall price is on a par with others and you can pick and choose whatever you want (I had some spares so didn't need everything)...

Packaging:
Top Notch, Kits come in the usual Chaoticlab Black Box, labeled "(kit name here) Kit for Voron" and wrapped in several layers of bubble wrap...
Of all the Kits I am aware of, these are premier when it comes to packaging and presentation, I was very impressed...

[Set 1] Electronics Kit (this kit is no longer available, parts sourced separately)

• Kraken V1.1 (€101.75) biqu...
• LDO Motor Kit (€109.02) biqu...
• Pi TFT50 V2.1 display (€32.13) biqu...
• Meanwell LRS-350-24, RS-25-5 (€60.63) Aliexpress...
• Omron G3NB-210B-1 10A (€19) Aliexpress...

Usual packaging, good but I missed the chaoticlab Kit black box ;(
Total: €322.53 (about the same as the kit, if you allow for the upgrade to Kraken)...

[Set 2] Full Cable Kit
Chaoticlab black box, quality excellent, perfect packaging, looking good...

[Set 3 ]Full Fastener Kit
Chaoticlab black box, inside everything individually packaged in labeled plastic bags and placed inside a segmented reusable plastic box. next level quality...

[Set 4] Heated Bed Kit
Chaoticlab black box, quality excellent...
Contents: Bed 8mm, Heater (240VAC), Spring Steel (textured both sides), Adhesive Magnet Sheet...
Notes: You will need high temperature silicone adhesive to bond heater to bed... I need to source this, any ideas?

[Set 5] Motion Kit
Chaoticlab black box, bubble wrap, perfect packaging...
Excellent quality (perfect)...

[Set 6] Panels Kit
TBA

[Set 7] Frame Kit
Chaoticlab black box, perfect packaging, mint condition extrusions, nice din rails...
Excellent quality (perfect)...

CNC Kits:
CNC Parts Kit V2.0 (should have ordered the kit with the CNC Tap included) oops..
Excellent quality (mint), perfect packaging...

Awaiting other CNC kit delivery:
CNC Voron Tap V2.0.
CNC Door Mounting Kit.
CNC Latch Parts (plastic version can and will break in time).

StealthBurner Printed Parts:
Purchased the Blurolls Voron Stealthburner SB Clockwork 2 Extruder Toolhead (Red ABS+, Infill 40%) on AliExpress.
Top notch quality, printed perfectly, cost: €25.28

Costs:

Previous Build:​

From memory I believe I spent about €1650 (possible a little more).​

​

Current Build:​

Approximately (€1250)​

Not going to price in the printed parts as I have lots of filament and will print them myself...
Allow about $100 for Stealthburner and associated parts...

Notes on prices:
Some parts are less expensive now (two years later) such as the CNC kit, this can account for some of the saving plus less printed parts bought.
I had hoped for some saving and it's looking like there is at least $300, but I have probably missed something.
Would be happy if €1500 is achievable for a genuine all metal build.

Conclusion:
Although everything looks perfect on inspection, If all the kits match the quality of the chaoticlab's CNC kit, I will be over the moon...

I can't start the build yet, have to make room for it and wait for the fasteners etc...

Updated: 21st Jan 2026

The Electronics Kit is no longer available, sourced items elsewhere, details above update...

Did I mention I was impressed with the quality presentation and packaging...

Mike

 

[NoGuru]

Nice project, subbing to watch the progress.

 

[MichaelOToole]

Might be a bit more difficult, have since developed Rheumatoid Arthritis, it's no too bad these days but left hand no fully working, right is fine.

Just got email to inform me Set 1: Voron 2.4 Electronics Kit out of stock and discontinued...
Now I need to find another source... Aliexpress here I come... might upgrade main board but which to get?

Have lots of 2209's, Pi 4, Fans and more but need the Mainboard, Motors and PSU's...

 

[NoGuru]

Aww man, sorry to hear that Michael. I can sympathize with you, tenuities and eyes getting worse make it hard for me to work on things as well.

I do not recommend using 2209's unless you are on a budget. So many WAYYYY better drivers out there. I have not tried it but the BTT Kraken looks to be a nice board and has built in 5160 drivers.

 

[MichaelOToole]

Ordered the Kraken, LDO Motors and the Display... €240... that leaves... ?

 

[3dCase]

Sorry to hear your fingers are letting you down. I had to contend with clise up eyesight problems and it is always horrible. I hope you will find work arounds.
Nice project and will be following it.
Have you found use for the revo parts already?

 

[MichaelOToole]

I can't actually open my left hand that much, I can use the index finger and thumb close to normal but as a hand it's kinda useless...
Didn't get to use the Revo parts yet, everything takes longer now but, come the summer

 

[3dCase]

I can't actually open my left hand that much, I can use the index finger and thumb close to normal but as a hand it's kinda useless...
Didn't get to use the Revo parts yet, everything takes longer now but come the summer

Yup I can relate to things taking longer. Hope things improve somehow.

 

[MichaelOToole]

I updated my original post above as more Kits arrived.

It has become apparent (during the examination / unboxing of the kits), that the quality is top notch, at the very least on a par but often exceeding that of other sources.
Appreciate many of the suppliers may have the same sources so overall quality will be similar or exact but certainly the packaging and branding is outstanding...

Mike

 

[3dCase]

I updated my original post above as more Kits arrived.

It has become apparent (during the examination / unboxing of the kits), that the quality is top notch, at the very least on a par but often exceeding that of other sources.
Appreciate many of the suppliers may have the same sources so overall quality will be similar or exact but certainly the packaging and branding is outstanding...

Mike

I had absolutely the exact same experience. The packaging, and marking of each package, was of top level quality. The parts are superb with high detail to finishing. It was a joy re-building my machine with them. Especially the fasteners were really of outstanding quality with pre-applied loctite, simply top notch.
I hope you will find the same right through to the end , and that it will run as it should. Looking forward to the result.

 

[tetra]

...
Notes: You will need high temperature silicone adhesive to bond heater to bed... I need to source this, any ideas?
...

Mike

this hi-temp silicone adhesive might be the best on the market.

SS-69 High Strength, High Temperature Adhesive Sealant

SS-69 is a high strength, high temperature silicone RTV engineered for applications requiring fast development of physical properties and excellent adhesion. SS-69 offers the highest temperature resistance of any acetoxy cure silicone currently available. When cured, the elastomer resists...

siliconesolutions.com

 

[3dCase]

Strange, my heaters always came with a 3M highbtemperature sticker.
If yours did not I would simply get a high temperature sealant for exhausts. Mine are red and are stable up to 600 degreesC. And they stay flexible, I would not pay through the nose for something that states its specially for something like 3d printing, until proven to me that it does indeed do something special.
I have glued my thermistor and thermal overloads with this silicone sealant before and never gave me any problems. I suppose s heaterpad would also work with this sealant.

 

[tetra]

Mine are red and are stable up to 600 degreesC.

I think you mean Fahrenheit, not Celsius. If indeed Celsius, please post the brand!

 

[3dCase]

I think you mean Fahrenheit, not Celsius. If indeed Celsius, please post the brand!

Yes my bad. It is 650 degrees F, which is still over 340 degrees C. It is from JB Weld and I think you can buy it from any carparts shop in europe anyway.

 

[tetra]

600F == 315.6C <-- (edit: oops, I thought you wrote 600F = over 340C)
But yeah, JB Weld is a good brand too. And, I too have always had heaters with the sticky sheet on the back.

 

[3dCase]

600F == 315.6C

650 degrees F, but both are hot enough to burn your fingers so not sure why you feel the need to correct me. But whatever. Cheap as chips so my choice.

 

[MichaelOToole]

I found an official doc link containing the some information: Installing Heater with RTV.

My point was, the LDO Bed came with the Heater already applied to the Bed but as these Heaters normally comes with 3M adhesive, so the extra black silicone adhesive around the edges of the Heater is applied for extra hold and not under the entire Heater element...

This was/is my assumption, so I wanted to know what the extra adhesive was and now it appears to be a generic high temp RTV adhesive.

RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing)
Any high temperature RTV will do, but RTV106 was suggested in the official linked document.

Probably don't need it as I don't intend going over 100ºС any time soon, so I opted for a generic Red RTV (343ºС) for small money on ebay

 

[3dCase]

If the heater is smaller then the bed, is whatever is outside this heater surface on the underside of the expised bed not also meant to be some insulation?
I don’t know how well this stuff indulates but it is deffo setting at room temperature while it cures completely with heat. We seal reductor boxes with it which are sitting against hot servo motors or other machine parts that get too hot to touch at times. It sets in all temperatures, even cold but off course takes longer, and cures fully in time. Not dure if this on the outside of the bed is for extra hold tbh, those 3M stickers are extreme high bonding glue normally, I would not think they need help from some silicon.

 

[MichaelOToole]

Almost certainly not use as an insulator but it's entirely possible the heater used in the LDO kit came without the 3M adhesive and they used an RTV silicone instead, that would explain the overlap.
But then again, as the main point of failure for adhesion is at the edges, it could be Belt and Braces approach... it's anyone's guess...