All Metal 2.4 350mm Build with Chaoticlab Kits

[3dCase]

I think I have some low from seasonal disorder or something. I still have not finished my almost totally built voron zero. I did get some metal parts for the toolhead and basically all I need to do is the firmware klipper macros and run it, but I simply cannot find the will for about 3 months now
I am following your progress with interest however, and hope you are doing better these days and that your problem with your hand has improved?

 

[MichaelOToole]

Left hand not great but at least I can still use my thumb and index finger, good job the right hand is almost normal, else I just waster a lot of cash.

I keep telling myself to sort out the mess and make a start on the build, but then I find something else to do...
This is also know as Vivaldi Syndrome (my invention), being lazy resulting from illness and/or lack of exercise and/or lack of energy, tends to last a period of one year (Four Seasons)

 

[Loki]

Is this even a build at this point when you buy everything prefabbed in a kit? Aren't you actually just screwing parts together at this point? What is the price difference if you would follow the voron BOM and self source everything and actually build yourself by following the build guide? Like do cut drill tap your own extrusion even. Cuz I'm about to do it that way but if it's not much cheaper than I'll take the easy route for sure, I'm not doing it for the experience, I built plenty of printers that print better than the most expensive consumer printers already before voron was a name. If it costs no more I'm happy to "cheat".

 

[NoGuru]

Is this even a build at this point when you buy everything prefabbed in a kit? Aren't you actually just screwing parts together at this point? What is the price difference if you would follow the voron BOM and self source everything and actually build yourself by following the build guide? Like do cut drill tap your own extrusion even. Cuz I'm about to do it that way but if it's not much cheaper than I'll take the easy route for sure, I'm not doing it for the experience, I built plenty of printers that print better than the most expensive consumer printers already before voron was a name. If it costs no more I'm happy to "cheat".

I'm not sure I follow what you are trying to convey here.
Yes it's a build. Anything you put together is. I think what Michael is doing is just building it with the parts he wants, and not what is in the standard build. Its the same way I build a printer.
We all get something out a a build be it, to make parts, the fun of tinkering or even coding.

 

[3dCase]

Is this even a build at this point when you buy everything prefabbed in a kit? Aren't you actually just screwing parts together at this point? What is the price difference if you would follow the voron BOM and self source everything and actually build yourself by following the build guide? Like do cut drill tap your own extrusion even. Cuz I'm about to do it that way but if it's not much cheaper than I'll take the easy route for sure, I'm not doing it for the experience, I built plenty of printers that print better than the most expensive consumer printers already before voron was a name. If it costs no more I'm happy to "cheat".

It is totally the same as a build when you follow the bom lists. Nothing comes prefabbed and there is no cheating. The kit takes the need for self sourcing away, or partially. You are still doing all of the building, wiring and firmware building.

 

[MichaelOToole]

Back in 2016/17 I went down the route of designing and building a 3d printer from scratch, I'm not about to do all of that again...

Obviously at that time you could not order ready made parts or kits, you could however get brackets, fasteners, extrusions, motors etc...
Part delivery (mainly from China) was in the order of one to three months, make a mistake or change the design and add months to the build...

Over a four months period I built the 400x400mm frame from 20x20mm and 20x40mm extrusions (mixed for added structural strength)...
I had originally intended for the Bed to be stationary as in the current 2.4 and make the gantry mobile in X, Y and Z, so with this in mind I started playing around with the design...

Now to this equation we have to add one vital fact, I'm an Engineer, I change my designs every time I spot a potential improvement but each change/improvement can result in requiring new parts and the associated delay involved, suffice to say, it became more important to build better than to finish it. As a result, I never finished my printer, the 3d printer designscape was improving faster that I could get parts...

Basically, this is my mindset and why I use Kits...

 

[Roky Jones]

Decided to build a second 2.4 (350mm) using Kits from chaoticlab's as they supply everything in individual kits.
My main aim here is to evaluate this approach and provide feedback on the kits/process so that others may gain from my experience.
I will post prices later in the post, so far it looks like it will cost less than my first build using LDO Kit & Chaoticlab CNC Parts...

Updated: 6th Feb 2026

These are the kits available:

• Voron 2.4 Electronics Kit (Set 1 - $295) Discontinued!
• Voron 2.4 Full Cable Kit (Set 2 - $45)
• Voron 2.4 Full Fastener Kit (Set 3 - $56)
• Voron 2.4 Heated Bed Kit (Set 4 - $129)
• Voron 2.4 Motion Kit (Set 5 - $229)
• Voron 2.4 Panels Kit (Set 6 - $109)
• Voron 2.4 Frame Kit (Set 7 - $109)
• Voron 2.4 CNC Parts Kit V2.0 ($399 no tap)
• Voron 2.4 Tap V2 ($44.99)

The overall price should be lower (no distributor's markup) and you can choose whatever kits you require.

Here is a link to the kits...

Packaging:
Top Notch, Kits come in the usual Chaoticlab Black Box, labeled "(kit name here) Kit for Voron" and wrapped in several layers of bubble wrap...
Of all the Kits I am aware of, these are premier when it comes to packaging and presentation, I was very impressed...

[Set 1] Electronics Kit
This Kit is out of stock and discontinued, I sourced these parts separately, see Replacement for [Set 1] below for details...

[Set 2] Full Cable Kit
Chaoticlab black box, quality excellent, perfect packaging, looking good...

[Set 3 ]Full Fastener Kit
Chaoticlab black box, inside everything individually packaged in labeled plastic bags and placed inside a segmented reusable plastic box. next level quality...

[Set 4] Heated Bed Kit
Chaoticlab black box, quality excellent...
Contents: Bed 8mm, Heater (240VAC), Spring Steel (textured both sides), Adhesive Magnet Sheet...
Notes: You will need high temperature silicone adhesive to bond heater to bed... I need to source this, any ideas?

[Set 5] Motion Kit
Chaoticlab black box, bubble wrap, perfect packaging...
Excellent quality (perfect)...

[Set 6] Panels Kit
Chaoticlab black box, foam wrap, perfect packaging, huge box
Everything looks perfect....

[Set 7] Frame Kit
Chaoticlab black box, perfect packaging, mint condition extrusions, nice din rails...
Excellent quality (perfect)...

CNC Parts Kits V2.0:
Excellent quality (mint), perfect packaging €327...

CNC TAP V2:
Chaoticlab CNC Voron Tap V2.0 (Perfect) €33...

Optional CNC parts :
Chaoticlab CNC Door Mounting Kit (Perfect) €32...
Aliexpress CNC Stealthburner Clockwork 2 extruder parts (Perfect)... A little expensive at €36 but my printed latch failed on my 300mm build...

StealthBurner Printed Parts:
Purchased the Blurolls Voron Stealthburner SB Clockwork 2 Extruder Toolhead (Red ABS+, Infill 40%) on AliExpress.
Top notch quality, printed perfectly, cost: €25.28

Replacement for [Set 1] Electronics Kit (kit is no longer available, parts sourced separately from Biqu Equipment and AliExpress)

• Kraken V1.1 (€101.75) Source: Biqu - Arrived ✔
• LDO Motor Kit (€109.02) Source: Biqu - Arrived ✔
• Pi TFT50 V2.1 display (€32.13) Source: Biqu - Arrived ✔
• Meanwell LRS-350-24, RS-25-5 (€60.63) Source: Aliexpress Arrived ✔
• Omron G3NB-210B-1 10A (€19) Source: Aliexpress Arrived ✔

Total: €322.53 ($381) ... about the same cost as the kit if you allow for the upgrade to Kraken...

Costs:

Previous Build:​

From memory I believe I spent about €1650 (possible a little more).​

​

Current Build:​

Approximately €1460 (includes some more CNC parts (Door Mounting Kit, Filament Latch) and some upgrades to electronics.​

Not going to price in the printed parts as I have lots of filament and will print them myself...
Allow about $60 for Stealthburner and associated parts...

What am I missing:
Orbiter 2.5 or use Orbiter 2.0 if I can find where I put it... (€42.53)
All prints for electronics bay...

Added: 6th Feb 2026 @16:07 UTC
Cost Breakdown:
Total (for available Kits without CNC parts): €665.90 ($787)
Add CNC Parts: €337.60 ($399)
Add Electronics: €322.53 ($381) ... (Includes Kraken V1.1 and 5" Pi TFT)
Sub Total: €1325 ($1567)

Additional Parts Costs:
LDO Orbiter V2.5 €42.53
Stealthburner SB Clockwork 2 printed parts: €25.28
CNC Door Mounting Kit: €32
CNC Latch Parts: C36
Sub Total: €135.81

Total Spend: €1460.81 ($1725.47)

Note, my prices include VAT, US prices may be lower but shipping might negate this...

Conclusion:
From memory my LDO 2.4 all metal build cost at least €1650, that's €200 more than this build, if I remove the extras I included this time, the difference would amount to at least a €300 saving.
The price difference is primarily down to using distributors who add their own margin (I'm guessing), but even so, it's a substantial saving for identical quality.
All in all, it was a good decision to go down this path...

What I forgot:
Didn't include the costs for the CANBus boards but as I have these in stock, I won't include the now, perhaps on a future update...
I did not include the cost for the printed parts as I will print these myself, basicall skirt and clamps for electronics bay...
There's probably more...

Did I mention I was impressed with the quality presentation and packaging of the ChaoticLab Kits...

Mike

Sounds like a great project and a good deal. Congrats!

For adhesive on the heater: mine came with a peel off adhesive sheet, but I did the "seal everything including the fuse" trick. I used JB Weld (red high temp silicone sticky goop) on the edges, masked so neat, about 23-30mm around all edges and the fuse to the metal heat bed. Worked great, looks nice, we'll see what happens when I get to the "start her up" stage...