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LDO Voron 2.4 Build with All Metal Parts

MichaelOToole

Active member
General remarks re LDO kit, and ChaoticLab CNC Metal Parts...

The CL (CharticLab) kit is top notch but quite expensive, even so, every single part was perfect not even a single blemish.
The LDO kit was 99.9 % perfect, only a couple of the pulleys/idlers slug threads were iffy.

If I make another Voron I will choose something less expensive, perhaps the FYSETC version as it's half the price and reviews Iv'e seen are quite good.

The Build:
Main reference: Voron 2.4 CNC parts Kit Build Guide (here) as my main reference, switching to the LDO Voron Build Guide for a cross reference.

As far as I can tell at this stage*, I only need to print cosmetic parts such as the skirting thingy to complete the project.
Some parts will be duplicated for example you will end up with a few spare bearings and lots of nuts and bolts.
One minor issue was a reference to M3x28 bolt sizes in the CL box, it was actually M3x27 (1mm smaller that referenced)...

VoronBuild.jpg

That's all for now, will keep track of next section and post anything of interest, I Just wanted to mention the quality of both kits is excellent, if a little pricey ...

* please check later posts for updates...
 
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As far as I can tell at this stage, I only need to print cosmetic parts such as the skirting thingy to complete the project.

Thank you, that actually answers a question I had a while back. (Whether the CNC kit was enough to complete the motion system.)
 
@Dave32, it appears that way... as can be seen on the image, but, I still have to add a six small parts and some red shims and of course the belts. I'm guessing it's designed to get to the stage where I can print the rest, that would make sense...

I did miss one important notes, the Chaotic Lab PDF does indicate what parts they include are in Blue and parts from the 2.4 kit are indicated in Red.
It might be as well I misses this, as there were no F725 bearings included but a different type similar to MiSUMi Stainless Steel Grooved Bearing V-Groove or possibly 625ZZ or 625VV were, so I used them.

Actually, 625ZZ look more likely...
The shaft could have been 1 or 2 mm longer with these, but if I have any issues, I will swap them out with F625 (F = flange) bearings...
Mike
 
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Day 2 of Build

Today I just ran the belts and apart from running one of the Z axis belts slightly wrong (no wonder it was stiff), every thing went according to plan.

The aluminium carriage in the Kit was a nice upgrade (by its self it would be worth while).
Carriage.png
Just realized, I wont be using the aluminium carriage, I have the ChaoticLab's CNC Tap...
I guess I could upgrade another printer with all the spares I have .

The appears to allow additional adjustment...
Tensioner.png

carriage_cnc2.jpg
 
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Might need some printed parts?

X/Y End-Stop housing print (for End Stop Board, the one with two micro-switches)...
Z End-Stop housing print (for End Stop Bard, the one with a single micro-switch)...

My aim here is to identify and document the parts that are required to complete the build (for those who went with the CNC kit parts option) and give approximate cost based on quotes I get and supply link to those suppliers.

List of printed parts required:

Required (Full Build without Skirt)
  • X/Y End-Stop housing (1)
  • Z End-Stop housing (1)
  • Z belt covers (4)
  • All Panel Hinges fixings (?)
  • Doors hinges (6 outer, 4 inner, 2 latch parts (parts with magnets)
  • All Panel Clip
  • DIN Clip (3)
  • RS25 Bracket (1)
  • Octopus Bracket Set
  • PSU Stabilizer
  • Raspberry Pi bracket
  • Irs 200 PSU bracket (2)
  • Wago 221-415 mount3 (5)
  • LCD Faceplate (BTT TFT 4.3)
  • LCD Mount (BTT TFT 4.3)
Option (Minimum Build to get started as per Dave32's Suggestions)
  • Build without LCD (Klipper runs perfectly fine without an LCD, you can control the printer via the web interface).
  • Omit the Z endstop and configure Klipper to use the Z probe as a virtual endstop.
  • Use sensorless homing in lieu of installing the X/Y end stops.
  • The panels could be taped in place, the Z belt covers omitted, the Raspberry Pi could be external.
Cosmetic (print later)
  • Skirt (all pieces)
Hot-End (Assembly Options)
  • I bought a full kit in ABS for StealthBurner with specific parts for my hot-end, would recommend you do the same.
Filter:
  1. Exhaust Filter Assembly
  2. (or/optional) Nevermore Parts
Updates:
Got a couple of quotes for the remaining parts, in the ball park of €85. (I missed a few, it may cost a little more).

Mike
 
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If you're planning on using the inductive probe, you won't be able to use that mount. They changed the manual to the correct one, but the mount itself is still designed for the old one that's no longer used. Looks like you're planning on using their CNC Tap though, which means you shouldn't have to worry about this!
 
I switched the mount to the CNC Tap V2, it looks awesome.

I will reuse the CNC mount (and all the spare parts I have) to complete an unfinished 400x400mm fixed bed printer I designed years back but never finished...
I could turn it into a Voron :)
 
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Image of parts required to complete build if using CNC kit parts:

Imported from original CAD into FreeCad, I used the 300mm parts.
Note the LCD enclosure for the larger LCD has yet to be added, I guess the larger LCD is a mod?

This image does not include panel hinges fixings or BTT LCD parts (attached does).
Voron_Required_Parts.jpg
 

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If it helps, quite a few of those parts in your "required" list wouldn't actually hold up printing if you didn't have them.

For example, Klipper runs perfectly fine without an LCD, you can control the printer via the web interface. Likewise, you could omit the Z endstop and configure Klipper to use the Z probe as a virtual endstop... and use sensorless homing in lieu of installing the X/Y end stops. The panels could be taped in place, the Z belt covers omitted, the Raspberry Pi could be external, etc, etc.

I'm certainly not saying you should do those things... just that if you are in a "bootstrap" situation without an ABS-capable printer, you have some options.
 
Sometimes you don't see the trees for the woods ;)

I actually ran my Ender 3 with Clipper (headless) but it didn't dawn on me to do that with my build.
Your suggestions make perfect sense, I could make a short term enclosure to print parts I need in ABS and use PLA for parts in the electronics bay area.

I could then updated these parts later if required... it must be possible/feasible to use PLA in the base, theoretically nothing should ever get hot there right?

Mind you I just ordered most of the parts I need but I guarantee I missed some...
I edited "required" post above to include your suggestions, they make perfect sense...

Thanks Dave...

I was tempted to say: "Sorry Dave I'm afraid I can't do that" ... have always wanted to use that quote :)
 
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