Parts detaching, most prints fail. What am I doing wrong?

[HoloPuff]

Printer Model

LDO Voron 2.4

Extruder Type

Clockwork 2

Cooling Type

Stealthburner

I'm having a really hard time with parts detaching and prints failing.
This is a new V2.4 LDO kit, printing ABS, bed at 110c. Good first layer squish. Bed was cleaned with soap and water and left to dry, untouched after.

What am I missing here?

 

[LoadMaster7]

First, I would suggest not printing this many parts at one time till you have the adhesion figured out. I also give my bed a wipe down with alcohol. Oils from your hands, even with soap and water, can still be left on the plate. I have filaments that I had to go as high as 115° C bedplate temp to get it to stick. Leave parts cooling disabled. What temp do you have your hotend set to?

 

[Oberon]

Soap is good to get the grease off, it's good to get it a final wipe with IPA to get rid of any residue but don't use only IPA as is tends to smear grease more than remove it.

Some have seen improvements in adhesion by giving the PEI sheet a light scrub with a metal sponge (obviously soap and IPA after that).

I'm assuming your printer is enclosed, that you're heat-soaking it before print and that you're not running the fan for the first (few) layer or the print ?

 

[NoGuru]

Both LoadMaster7 and Oberon have great advice. Something to add to that is the filament you are using and color. I have my favorite brands but one of them in red will not stick, no matter what I tried. My point is there are lots of variables, just try to reduce them one at a time.

 

[Fogl]

I just went through exactly the same issue. New printer from LDO kit.
It is very likely that new build plates have a coat of sealant of some sort, possibly to protect the silk-screened LDO logo in the corner.
I'd suggest doing this:

1. Take a new Scotch Brite and rub the build plate with soap and water. This is a gentle mechanical cleaning to disrupt the very top layer. Dry it out.
2. Use a generous amount of acetone several times to clean the surface with a shop towel or paper towel. This WILL smudge and dissolve the paint from the LDO logo, just giving you a heads up. It will NOT do anything with the PEI surface. PEI is not reacting to acetone in any way.

That's it. It will stick nicely.

Note, do NOT use IPA. IPA is very bad at dissolving oily substances. It was mentioned many times, but people still go and use IPA. It is not a good cleaner for PEI build plates.

 

[120decibell]

I am going to disagree. I have had very poor results from using acetone on powder coated PEI. A scotch brite, dish soap, and water will usually do a world of good with some elbow grease. IPA is ok for occasional cleaning but jst be aware it does not dissolve oils but just spreads them around.

 

[Fogl]

I am going to disagree. I have had very poor results from using acetone on powder coated PEI. A scotch brite, dish soap, and water will usually do a world of good with some elbow grease. IPA is ok for occasional cleaning but jst be aware it does not dissolve oils but just spreads them around.

Could you, please, elaborate on your experience with acetone and powder-coated PEI?
PEI (Ultem) simply does not react with acetone at all (https://www.astisensor.com/ultem.pdf) so I'm curious, where are the "poor results" coming from.

 

[RandyG]

ULTEM Product Brochure GE: https://www.emcoplastics.com/assets/pdf/ultem/ULTEM Product Brochure GE.pdf
Page 28
ULTEM ® 1000 resin
Acetone falls under "Ketones and Aldehydes"
Key to performance : f ( failure / ruptured ) <======


PRUSA knowledgebase says: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804
"Acetone:
PEI can lose its adhesive powers after a couple of hundred hours. When you see models coming loose regularly, wipe the surface thoroughly with acetone to restore the adhesion. This should only be used in the smooth PEI sheet and only around once per month. Do not overuse acetone. Extended use makes PEI surface brittle. Also, do not use acetone before printing with PETG.

For the textured and the satin steel sheets, do not use acetone at all!"

PS This is a PEI Sheet: https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Sheet-Printer-Surface/dp/B07CGWHLJ1
The steel powdercoat sheets are not the same, PRUSA says "Do Not"

BEST - LIsten to what everyone is telling you above ​

Go find a white scotchbright pad (or blue color grocery store scrubbing pad "plastics safe") ,
some DAWN dish detergent (has no hand lotions or dumb stuff in it),
scrub it off in the kitchen sink when it loses it's stickiness. Dry it off with a clean microfiber cloth.

 

[RandyG]

HoloPufF​

I'm having a really hard time with parts detaching and prints failing.
This is a new V2.4 LDO kit, printing ABS, bed at 110c. Good first layer squish. Bed was cleaned with soap and water and left to dry, untouched after.

What am I missing here?

BED:
Clean that with a scrubbie , not just soap and water, it makes a big difference.

Is your bed level to the extruder? This doesn't mean just the plate.
Your printer is enclosed. Voron X and Y gantry extrusions curve when they are 50 degrees (BiMetal effect).
Then your 2.4 is warmed up fully, first layer might have insufficient squish in lots of places even with a dead flat plate. Result is your extruder knocks the parts off when they get taller and a corner lifts.
You can fix this with BACKERS, or implementing a bed mesh to accommodate it.

Bed temp : 110 might be kinda hot, magnets start losing strength after 100, your PEI steel could be lifting a bit cause parts to get knocked off.
Or it might be ok. I have no idea what magnet you bought . Some are much better than others. Try 100?

Filament: This makes a really big difference. Hotter=better adhesion , FIRST LAYER. If you use superslicer, this setting is in FILAMENT SETTINGS:FILAMENT
make the first layer hotter , try 15 deg hotter, or 20. You didn't say what you are printing at... assuming you did a temp tower

Superslicer "Only retract when crossing perimeters" Try turning that off, can make bumps the extruder can catch on
Printer Settings - Extruder - Lift Z , Try turn that ON .4mm. Both these prevent the extruder from skating on, catching bumps, things go flying.
(later, when you have filament calibrated perfectly etc, you can try turning these back on and off)

Last , when I am printing stuff I just DONT WANT to redo , maybe the bottom has not so much contact, or I am printing with my cheap ECO-ABS
I'll turn on a BRIM. Guarantee there is no corner lift, nothing for the extruder to whack into, cheap insurance