Questions before I begin my build

[MichaelOToole]

I have these parts:

• A couple of 32 bit board (but not the right one)
• Varety of generic hot-ends (Red Lizard, Spider, etc.)
• 6 x Nema 17 & 3 x Nema 23 Motors
• Most of the Belts, Pulleys & Bearings required
• Cast aluminum plate for the bed (400x400x6mm)
• 5V and 24V Power Supply (Meanwell)
• Lots of 20x20 and 20x30 extrusions
• Flexible build plate & Magnetics
• SSR 10A, SSR 20A
• Boxes of various connectors
• Various Fans (Noctua)
• TMC2209 x 7

I need to buy these:

• Linear Rails
• Control Board
• Plastic (or Metal Parts question below)
• Cable Kit
• Silicone AC Heater
• Sensor Module

Basically, I am real slow to purchase a full kit as I have already spent lots of money, so a couple of questions...

Are there any supplier who might sell kits in sections, such as Fasteners, Motion, Electronics separately?
Also, has anyone bought/used the Aluminum Parts Kit I've seen on AlleyExpress?

Final Options for Build: (wishlist)

Kit:

• LDO - Voron 2.4 300 Kit RevC Kit €1650
• LDO (ChaoticLab) CNC Voron Parts Kit €450
• LDO (ChaoticLab) CNC Tap €50

CAN Bus (dependant on hotend?)

• BigTreeTech EBB SB2209/SB2240 CAN Toolhead Board for Voron StealthBurner ~€30

Total: €2150

Mike

 

[NoGuru]

Hi Mike, the short answer is yes.
I have no idea what part of the world you are in but I can tell you LDO has a nice source or retailers that sell everything you need. https://docs.ldomotors.com/en/Oribter_Resellers

 

[MichaelOToole]

Thank you, much appreciated... I'm from Ireland

 

[claudermilk]

I'm not familiar with vendors in your part of the world, but I'm sure someone will chime in. There are a number of sub kits out there. For fasteners, it doesn't hurt to just order a bunch of the various sizes needed. You will eventually need more for mods.
One point is your Noctua fans. Those are going to be 12V which are fine for the electronics bay cooling (I switched to Noctuas for those), but the tool head fans are going to want to be the 24V ones listed in the BOMs to get the CFM values you will need.

 

[MichaelOToole]

@claudermilk, Gotcha, forgot about voltage, not to worry, I can use one of the Buck Converter I never found a use for...

I found an old Raspberry Pi 3, so I installed klipper on it, to get use to it.
I now control my Ender 3 directly, magic, I'm halfway there...

 

[MichaelOToole]

I'm hoping to purchase an LDO kit and perhaps even use all metal parts from ChaoticLab...
Started out to save money, might end up spending way too much...

 

[claudermilk]

Might?

If you go with an LDO kit, you will have everything you need to build a really nice printer. I (and my daughter) recently built an LDO V0.2 and it is a great kit. All high quality parts with everything you need aside from a Pi--which you already have (coincidentally we used a Pi 3 in it).

The 24V fans on the tool head can use the main 24V power supply you will need for the hot end and bed.

Which controller board do you have or plan on? My Octopus in my Trident supplies all the fans and the Pi; the fan ports have selectable voltage, and the UART Pi port feeds it 5V. I have no 5V power supply in it.

 

[MichaelOToole]

Might, that's what I tell myself

The LDO kit (Rev C) comes with Bigtreetect Octopus 1.1 and toolhead PCB... best take a closer look at it so I know what I'm in for...

Looks like I already saved money , I have enough TMC2209 Drivers already, maybe not, does the kit come with drivers? Yes it does, ah well...

 

[claudermilk]

The LDO kit would be complete (except, as noted, the unobtanium Pi). The toolhead PCB is really nice and makes wiring much easier. Several of the most popular mods (such as the toolhead PCBs) are included in the LDO kit.

 

[MichaelOToole]

My PC mines unobtainium, nothing yet, need a better GPU.

No LDO kits in stock till after Christmas, giving me loads of time to play with Klipper.
I've already solved a long outstanding issue on my Ender3 with it, while playing with the mesh calibration...

 

[MichaelOToole]

I've update first post with a wish-list for final build, it's a bit pricey as I included CNC parts but what the hell, you only live once...

Question, what CAN Bus board do I need?
For the Tap do I need additional parts/kits, version 1 or 2?

 

[sanketss84]

I've update first post with a wish-list for final build, it's a bit pricey as I included CNC parts but what the hell, you only live once...

Question, what CAN Bus board do I need?
For the Tap do I need additional parts/kits, version 1 or 2?

I am still learning things myself so helping with what I know.

This guy has a nice tutorial series on CAN and explains really well he used a BTT U2C v2.1 adapter and EBB SB2240
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLngLOesYVWnw9w5yW3VwioBm0Qd7yuE47

I was able to follow it, hope this helps you.

 

[MichaelOToole]

Thanks sanketss84, I've looked at the videos in preparation of my build as the LDO kit has been delayed for another two weeks... ;(

 

[can man]

Question, what CAN Bus board do I need?

In theory, with an octopus V1.1, all you need is a toolhead board - either an EBB36 or something similar ( like a mellow fly sb2040). In practice, I believe using a dedicated CANbus board may save you some headaches in terms of being more "Plug & play". The octopus already has all the hardware needed for CANBus, but it's a bit of a hastle to get it to work.
When it does, it is undoubtedly the "cleaner" option of the two in the electronics bay.

Note that switching to CANbus means your wiring loom siginificantly changes ( i.e. you take about 500gr of wires out and put four new ones in), so if you plan to go CANbus from the start, you'll end up changing quite a bit and reprinting a few parts at least. Don't get the idea to start out with canbus, vorons are complicated enough.

 

[MichaelOToole]

Many thanks, I had forgotten the octopus already has CANBus so I ordered the U2C V2.1 board from BTT, but as suggested, this method might help simplify things.

I'm getting a better understanding of the individual parts, the original complexity was probably down to information overload... and so many options...

I decided to go with CANBus because, it a) removes cables, reducing weigth, clutter etc... and b) shifts emphasis from hardware to software (config/code) for which I am a little more familiar.
My LDO order has been delayed again... I have loads of time to watch more videos and make other changes