Question SB2209 - Running part fan kills nozzle LED's

[billgeek]

Everything on my new Trident seems to be working, aside from this small issue:

I'm using the BTT SB2209 CAN board and while everything seems to be working as expected, as soon as the part cooling fan is set to above zero the nozzle LED's of the Stealthburner would switch off. When I try to switch the nozzle LED's back on manually, I get a quick flicker then back to nothing. Note that the Logo LED has no issue and works all the time.

Has anyone else experienced this and can possibly share a solution to this issue? Here's a short video that might explain it better:

At first I thought it might be a short somewhere or my soldering on the pixels might've been the cause, but I've triple-checked everything and I still can't figure out what's going on here. I've followed the installation document to the last letter for the SB2209 with the fan connected next to the hotend fan on the first four pins of the secondary PCB. The Neopixels are connected to the 3 pin header provided for LED's.

Section from my printer config:

[mcu sb2209]
canbus_uuid: aeb42a812566

[fan]
pin: sb2209:PA1
kick_start_time: 0.5
off_below: 0.10

[neopixel sb_leds]
pin: sb2209:PD3
chain_count: 3
color_order: GRBW
initial_RED: 0.25
initial_GREEN: 1.0
initial_BLUE: 0.25
initial_WHITE: 0.0

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[billgeek]

This was happening for quite some time, but somehow - I wish I knew how - this just stopped and now the nozzle LED's are always lit. At first I thought it was the label / sticker behind the part fan shorting out pins on the "daughter board", but after removing the label and replacing it with electrical tape, the issue persisted.

Now for the past few months I had issues with Klicky probe not being accurate and I couldn't print much as I have Z_TILT in my print-start macro, so this weekend I removed the Z_TILT, manually adjusted what I could and printed the parts for "UnTAP" - using conductivity of the carriage as a switch.

This thing is infinitely more accurate than I could ever get the Klicky probe, plus the nozzle LED's are now functioning as expected.

This may have just been a wiring issue on my part in the past, though after disassembling and reassembling the SB what feels like a thousand times, I doubt this could've been the case.

Anyway... An anomaly for sure, but the problem seems to be gone.