Hello Everybody,
I am thinking about building a Voron. I am leaning toward buying a Siboor Kit. Anyways, I have a few questions for people who have bought these kits.
1. If you bought a Voron 0.2 R1 with metal structural parts, how fast can it go after tuning, How fast do you run it at? Do you just have speed or can you also share acceleration, or maybe 3DBenchy times or something similar?
2. If you bought a Voron 0.2 R1 with Color Frame/Color ABS parts and a Dragon HF, how fast can it go after tuning, How fast do you run it at? Do you just have speed or can you also share acceleration, or maybe 3DBenchy times or something similar?
3. Overall, how would you rate your experience building this printer?
4. Would you recommend this to someone like me who has been running a heavily modified Ender 3 Pro for almost five years and is looking for more speed and quality?
Thanks for all your help,
-Printer239869
Which reseller you buy the kit from hardly matters any more. They are all just shipping and warehousing companies and collect parts from a few suppliers, repackage and reship therm. It is YU who builds the printer and you who does the quality control and you who decides what parts to swap out and upgrade if you need better performance.
So just buy "whatever", the kits are difference but one is not better. $50 or even $100 difference does not matter in the end.
If you want a top of the line V0 and printing speed is your main. goal then you want to look at a good hot end. on the V0 the speed limit is bottlenecked by how much plastic you can push out the m=nozzle. It does not good to move the print head at 350 mm per second if you can extrude the plastic fast enough to keep up.
Let's do some math. assume 0.4 wide wall and 0.2 layer height and the wall is 100mm long. that is 8 mm^3 (eight cubic millimeters) of plastic. If you print at 100mm/second youneed to extrude 8 mm^3 per sec. that is an ""easy" number and anu hot end can do.
But if you want the print at 200mm/s you need 16 mm^3/sec of plastic and now you need a better hot Any Voron V0 cn doo 200mm/second, but can the hot end melt plastic fast enough? Maybe. But by the time you get to 300mm/s speed you need 24 mm^3 second and now ytou are needed a specialized high flow hot end and then you want to go faster you ned a 9o0.8 nozzel.
The bottom line is that a normal Formbot or Sibor kit with a plain old Dragonhotend will have no trouble printing up to 12 mm^3/second.
In short the "speed" of a printer is how fast it can extrude plastic. Moving the toolhead is easy, corexy systems are typically much faster than the toolhead.
Finally, if you want to print faster, the very best option is to own several printers. The V0 is sometimes faster then the V2.4 or Trident because those large printers take 30 minutes to "heat soak" while my V0 takes only 10 minutes. For a small part, ther V0 can be done printing before the V2.4 starts printing. Even if the V2.4 can move faster.
In my creero I notice begiiner engineers of all disiplins tend to look at the little details and bits of ther project at a time. Only after a long experience do that start thingking about the system as a whole and the big picture and the economics around the system and how their customers use it. The recent grads look st ball bearing specs and what kind of oil to use when what b=meeters is that someone choose to use ball bearins and oil, the details are just that, details.
So tep back, think about prints and how you will use the printer. If you need small parts made of ABS with a quick turn around, the V0 is for you. But I can't imagine having a tiny V0 as your only printer. 120x120 is a small build plate and many parts simply do not fit. But, you NEVER expect larger part to have a short turnaround.
