Tap and auto calibration of z height.

[Zephyrus67]

Hello

I have now been using my Voron 2.4 R2 for a while and have become happy with it and its results.
There have been some issues/challenges over time especially with adhesion but that seems to have been solved.

One of the major upgrades I did to my setup is the Voron Tap + Stealthburner and it seems to work fine as well.
There is though ONE question that has been popping into my mind sometimes.

Are you not supposed to avoid the need of calibrating the z after doing that the very first time when you are using TAP?
I thought that was the whole purpose of it, but yet I still experience from time to time that I need to recalibrate the probe z height because the hotend starts too close to the pei sheet and I need tought tools to clean that again.

If the case is that I actually have to do this still - will then using the auto z plugin be able to work with voron tap?

If it is NOT the case that I should NOT need to calibrate again then what can be the issue here?

When I built the TAP I used the magnets that was leftovers from the printer build. Could these magnets be too weak and do that the toolhead does not always go all the way down to the bottom?

Zep

 

[WesPless]

You do not need check / adjust Z-offset every print or every time when you are replacing changing bed sheet because with TAP your nozzle is your probe . You just need to do first time calibration ... however, you have to remember that some small particles or simple ooze might affect your z-offset readings ... you have to make sure your nozzle is clean ... personally Im doing brush clean on the end of the each print and doing double G28 before print .... 1st standard homing ... then heat up nozzle to 160C to softer a little bit any filament residue then brush clean and G28 one more time ... that way my initial Z measure is in real 0 (bed level )

 

[Zephyrus67]

Yes everything you write is also how I actually thought it should be. I DO clean the brush between each print. Automatically with a brush and bucket system but also manually if I can see it is needed. I also changed the retraction settings after end print and in the brush/bucket system to make sure there is no oozed material on the nozzle when homing and QGL'ing. Nevertheless it has still been going off the height a few times where I had to redo the probe z height offset.

After similar responses like yours I have though come to the conclusion that I might have a problem in the tap setup itself. I used the 2 magnets that was left from my printer build project and I was already from start wondering about the strength of those magnets (tap recommends using N52 strength neodymium) since they didnt FEEL like they were very strong when I built the printer.
So my idea now is that I will try and redo the complete part around the magnets in the tap and see if that changes anything.

 

[WesPless]

hmmm.... when I was working on my TAP I paid attentions for the magnets and was looking specifically for the N52 not the cheap ones on Amazon - so I bought them from the store which specialize in this kind of stuff .... so I know it's 100% accordingly to the specs. but ... from time to time have the same issues as you described .... not often but definitely from time to time have to adjust my z-offset ... recently replaced whole mount because noticed some wobbling - carriage screws got loose and this time used blue lock paint to make sure it doesn't happen again . So maybe it's normal behavior ... sometimes thinking maybe klicky probe might be better solution as you don't have issue with filaments and all these other "variables" like some parts not perfectly tight ? but on the other hand when you switch to klicky you might experiance different kind of issues .... I'm pretty sure TAP designers used klicky before and found TAP more reliable and better solution .... Prusa did the same switch as well ....

 

[WesPless]

one mere thing to check ..... I'm sure you did set this up correctly but just in case you did the same mistake as I did ... make sure to set your X and Y offset to 0 in the probe section .. I forgot that step and my measurement wasn't correct as I had y_offset: 10 ( from previous probe )
Here is my probe section if you want to compare

[probe]

pin: can0:B5

x_offset: 0

y_offset: 0

speed: 10.0

samples: 3

samples_result: median

sample_retract_dist: 3.0

samples_tolerance: 0.006

samples_tolerance_retries: 3

activate_gcode:

    {% set PROBE_TEMP = 150 %}

    {% set MAX_TEMP = PROBE_TEMP + 5 %}

    {% set ACTUAL_TEMP = printer.extruder.temperature %}

    {% set TARGET_TEMP = printer.extruder.target %}



    {% if TARGET_TEMP > PROBE_TEMP %}

        { action_respond_info('Extruder temperature target of %.1fC is too high, lowering to %.1fC' % (TARGET_TEMP, PROBE_TEMP)) }

        M109 S{ PROBE_TEMP }

    {% else %}

        # Temperature target is already low enough, but nozzle may still be too hot.

        {% if ACTUAL_TEMP > MAX_TEMP %}

            { action_respond_info('Extruder temperature %.1fC is still too high, waiting until below %.1fC' % (ACTUAL_TEMP, MAX_TEMP)) }

            TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR=extruder MAXIMUM={ MAX_TEMP }

        {% endif %}

    {% endif %}

 

[claudermilk]

I'm pretty sure TAP designers used klicky before and found TAP more reliable and better solution .... Prusa did the same switch as well ....

While I'm not a developer, this was my path and my experience. I have no desire to return to Klicky. Not that Klicky was bad, but Tap has been more reliable once I got it running.

 

[Maddog]

I had the TAP installed and working but I removed it. Added more issues than it got rid of.
The Z height changes when you switch from PLA to PETG to ABS because the filament on the nozzle does not melt at same temp.
Double and triple cleaning the hotend every print was something I don't want to do.
Heating to 150 to avoid damage to bed? Always thought that sucked. I was printing ABS at 270 then had to wait for it to get down to 150 to home to start another print.
I installed the Cartographer 3D and everything wrong with TAP got fixed. The hotend should never touch the BED.
It connects to my CAN bus so no more wires. It's made me very happy I made the change.
The BED gets much better leveling numbers now. Usually less than 0.002mm variation. Sometimes 0.000mm.
Never got less than .010m with TAP. Oh and bed mesh is a rocket compared to TAP since it never touches the BED.
Those thinking about going with the TAP should think again!

 

[Dr.Who12]

I had the TAP installed and working but I removed it. Added more issues than it got rid of.
The Z height changes when you switch from PLA to PETG to ABS because the filament on the nozzle does not melt at same temp.
Double and triple cleaning the hotend every print was something I don't want to do.
Heating to 150 to avoid damage to bed? Always thought that sucked. I was printing ABS at 270 then had to wait for it to get down to 150 to home to start another print.
I installed the Cartographer 3D and everything wrong with TAP got fixed. The hotend should never touch the BED.
It connects to my CAN bus so no more wires. It's made me very happy I made the change.
The BED gets much better leveling numbers now. Usually less than 0.002mm variation. Sometimes 0.000mm.
Never got less than .010m with TAP. Oh and bed mesh is a rocket compared to TAP since it never touches the BED.
Those thinking about going with the TAP should think again!

Can you specify which Cartographer 3D product you purchased and any accessories required to mount or wire it to your SB2240? I'm looking to do the same.