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Solved The 150 degc limit...

Question here: Is it a must to have this 150 degc hotend temperature? When I print ABS every things expand while heating up and the zero setting is'nt good anymore. Then I have to play with fine settings until I get a good first layer. Annoying
Thanks.
Francis
 
The 150C (some use 180C) is to prevent the nozzle from causing divots in the bed because it melts the PEI. Usually (key word) the thermal expansion of the nozzle is not significant enough from that point to cause a problem. Are you doing the probing with the chamber at temperature?
 
If you're raising by a consistent amount every time, permanently adjust the probe calibration by that same amount, and...done.
 
The 150C (some use 180C) is to prevent the nozzle from causing divots in the bed because it melts the PEI. Usually (key word) the thermal expansion of the nozzle is not significant enough from that point to cause a problem. Are you doing the probing with the chamber at temperature?
Oh, so if I had swiped Prusa's 170C setting, I can safely update the Tap settings then?
 
I remembered the importance of doing the zero in z once the qgl is done. Hence the inconsistency of my first layer. Problem solved. Thank you all!
 
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The 150C (some use 180C) is to prevent the nozzle from causing divots in the bed because it melts the PEI. Usually (key word) the thermal expansion of the nozzle is not significant enough from that point to cause a problem. Are you doing the probing with the chamber at temperature?
Why do some use 180C? I have a guess; Is it because 180c is hot enough to squish out any material that may have oozed out and be stuck to the nozzle?
 
Question here: Is it a must to have this 150 degc hotend temperature? When I print ABS every things expand while heating up and the zero setting is'nt good anymore. Then I have to play with fine settings until I get a good first layer. Annoying
Thanks.
Francis
Full Disclosure: I'm no expert on anything related to 3D Printing.

I was having trouble getting consistent first layer squish, so I did a little test. After running Ellis' squish tuning procedure, I printed a file with (9) 30x30x0.25mm patches, once with hot end at 150C, then again with hot end around 45C.

Trial 1: Bed 110C, Hotend 150C, Chamber 44C, 30 minute heat soak. Results: Good first Layer.
I let things cool down over night.
Trial 2: Bed 110C, Hotend 45C, Chamber 44C, 30 minute heat soak. Results: Gaps between lines.

I did NOT run this test multiple times and I'm sure there are a bunch of variables that I'm not measuring, but just based on the little that I did do, it seems that hot end temperature matters. So I did a little research (aka googling) and I did a little math.

Length of V6 nozzle is 12.5mm. Rate of thermal expansion for brass is 0.0000188 per degree celsius. Delta Temp on Nozzle 150-45=105C
Delta Nozzle length: 12.5mm * 105 * 0.0000188 = 0.024675mm

This is not huge difference in length, but with my very limited experience, I think it's enough for a noticeable difference in first layer appearance. It seems to me that being consistent with hot end temperature when Z-Homing / QGL / Bed Mesh, is relatively important. I'm guessing if you always run with hot end off, you'll be ok. Likewise, if you always run with hot end at 150c (or some other consistent temperature), you'll also be ok. But I think it's important to always do it the same way.

I'll appreciate any feedback I can get on my (probably over simplified and maybe just plain wrong) logic. Keep on tappin'!
 
180 for the Tap, 200 for the ERCF, 215 for the PLA... At the end your always waiting for that thing to get to some temperature. It becomes annoying.
 
You can decrease the wait a little bit if you begin with setting the hotend to the desired probing temp instead of the print temp.
Then, after probing is done, set the hotend to print temp.

This way the hotend goes from
idle --> probe temp --> print temp
instead of
idle --> print temp --> probe temp --> print temp


I use Cura slicer and did it this way

"Start G-code":
Code:
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}   ;Start heating bed
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}   ;Wait for bed to reach temp before proceeding
PRINT_START                                ;Run the PRINT_START macro
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating extruder
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for extruder to reach temp before proceeding


Adjust the PRINT_START macro to set the desired probe temp, then do probing, leveling and whatnot.
The hotend is set to print temp after PRINT_START macro is done, see "Start G-code" above.

The first two gcode lines in my PRINT_START macro.
Code:
[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
gcode:
 M109 S150      # heat nozzle to 150
 G32            # home all, probe bed, level the gantry and such

May result in some slight Z0 deviation at very high print temps due to everything being measured at 150C, but it works well enough for me.
 
This is where a fast-reacting heater like a Revo becomes nice. You just have to be ok with the flow rate limits (I am).
 
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