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Solved Thinking of going CAN bus. What's the best option for my setup?

Laserbea4k43

Well-known member
Hi,
I'm thinking of going CAN because modifying my toolhead always ravages the connectors, and I have to recrimp.
I have an Octopus Pro with the RJ11 CAN bus connector. What would be the smoothest transition to a CAN-bus setup if I run 2209s?
I'd like to keep the cable-chain setup, and eventually transition from TAP to Beacon Rev H.
 
I would not recomend CAN bus. I have used just about every CAN bus board out there and while they are okay when they work, the work and issues that go with them is not worth it.
A better option is a USB toolhead. LDO makes the Nitehawk and it is fantastic. Simple setup and solid faster comunication.
The downside is finding it in stock.
They do have a 36 version coming out soon too.
 
I did just recently see the nighthawk. If that's what it is, I imagine it would be 100x easier than CAN bus. Thanks for the suggestion!!
 
I have had a solid experience with CAN. Other than minor issues for my 1st one, I've built 3 printers with can toolheads. It's only marginally more work doing CAN than doing the basic setup but A LOT LESS messing around with harnesses and wires.

Voron 2.4 - Manta M8p + 2209
Switchwire conversion - Octo Pro with EBB42
Voron 0.2 IDEX - Manta M5P + two EBB36s

I had a Fystect spider working until I fried it. :(
 
I have had a solid experience with CAN. Other than minor issues for my 1st one, I've built 3 printers with can toolheads. It's only marginally more work doing CAN than doing the basic setup but A LOT LESS messing around with harnesses and wires.

Voron 2.4 - Manta M8p + 2209
Switchwire conversion - Octo Pro with EBB42
Voron 0.2 IDEX - Manta M5P + two EBB36s

I had a Fystect spider working until I fried it. :(
I've fried 1 or 2 spiders 😅 too sensitive for my style.
 
I have had a solid experience with CAN. Other than minor issues for my 1st one, I've built 3 printers with can toolheads. It's only marginally more work doing CAN than doing the basic setup but A LOT LESS messing around with harnesses and wires.

Voron 2.4 - Manta M8p + 2209
Switchwire conversion - Octo Pro with EBB42
Voron 0.2 IDEX - Manta M5P + two EBB36s

I had a Fystect spider working until I fried it. :(
I have as well but trust me when I say USB is 1000x easier and better. I now have at least 6 or 8 CAN boards sitting in a drawer doing nothing.
 
Well I tried USB and it wasn't easier at all. It adds a lot more mass in wiring and takes up a short count of available ports. Already need to do a klipper/make. Doing it twice more was trivial.

Now i have a lightweight installation, that is robust and simple, without the mess that USB wires add since they are a pain to make and modify - vs CAN which is stupid simple to make custom harnesses with.

So, no. It's not simpler in total - and it's certainly not as elegant.
 
Heh.. already ordered nitehawk.
question, stealthburner LEDs are handled through the USB connection?
Meaning, am I going to have to update my printer.cfg for the fans and LEDs, Mapping them to pins on the Nitehawk PCB?
 
Heh.. already ordered nitehawk.
question, stealthburner LEDs are handled through the USB connection?
Meaning, am I going to have to update my printer.cfg for the fans and LEDs, Mapping them to pins on the Nitehawk PCB?
You will have to do the pin assignment on the Nighthawk but that is about it.
 
Well I tried USB and it wasn't easier at all. It adds a lot more mass in wiring and takes up a short count of available ports. Already need to do a klipper/make. Doing it twice more was trivial.

Now i have a lightweight installation, that is robust and simple, without the mess that USB wires add since they are a pain to make and modify - vs CAN which is stupid simple to make custom harnesses with.

So, no. It's not simpler in total - and it's certainly not as elegant.
This is very surprising to me since I have the opposite opinion. Maybe I will make a poll just to see what others opinions are.

Thanks for your response.
 
Bud - I just read through the nighthawk manual - ITS MORE COMPLICATED THAN CANBUS. Most steps, more wires, more boards.... especially with a mainboard that already has a CAN header.

I'm really surprised you are surprised a solution with more steps is actually more complicated.
 
Bud - I just read through the nighthawk manual - ITS MORE COMPLICATED THAN CANBUS. Most steps, more wires, more boards.... especially with a mainboard that already has a CAN header.

I'm really surprised you are surprised a solution with more steps is actually more complicated.
Oh, I thought you said you tried it.
Like I said, I have used almost every CAN board on the market. USB is way easier. I really don't know how you cannot see this. I am not going to argue with you since you have your mind made up but I would still suggest trying it before making your opinion.

I created a Poll on the Voron USB/CAN Discord channel. https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/1076243803947667516/1237732659103268895
 
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Any Nitehawk SB installation videos that arent 2 or 3 hours long? I just want to know what toolhead pieces to print, and where to connect them. I see the STLs in the online docs, but the instructions about where to connect everything looks pretty vague. Hopefully im overcomplicating things.
 
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It's pretty easy once you get into it. Did you have a SB toolhead already? If so it will just screw in place. IF not there is one little print that is like an L shape.
 
It's pretty easy once you get into it. Did you have a SB toolhead already? If so it will just screw in place. IF not there is one little print that is like an L shape.
I see the mounting points for the mainboard ( I only need to install heated inserts), but nothing for the fan board. Isn’t that supposed to be mounted too?
 
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