VORON Design
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Torque for the screw tightening
- Thread starter lukics
- Start date
There really isn't a spec for torque on the screws. It's all pretty much just to snug--and that's lighter than you would think so go easy. As we say on a couple of the YouTube streams: "only a couple of ugga duggas" and "righty-tighty, and if righty-tighty becomes righty-loosey you've gone too far."
If you want to get technical, a plain M3 bolt class 10.9 is supposed to be torqued to 1.9 Nm (1.4ft-lb).
jluvs2ride
Member
Tight enough is to subjective, I have big hands and I have a tendency to tighten things a little too much.
I've looked up the torque specs for various size screws and bolts but I don't know if that applies screwing into threaded inserts.
I've looked up the torque specs for various size screws and bolts but I don't know if that applies screwing into threaded inserts.
PGe-10
New member
I have wondered the same thing many times, so thanks for a real answer to his question. Appreciate facts and not everyone's opinion
If your using stainless screws like I am that same M3 in a A4 class is only torqued to 8.9 in lb or 1nm
international.optimas.com
Stainless Steel Fasteners Pre-Load And Tightening Torques
Pre-Load and tightening torques for A1, A2 and A4 stainless steel fasteners.
international.optimas.com
Akio
Member
A while ago I stumbled on this: https://www.sliceengineering.com/co...essories/products/nozzle-torque-wrench-1-5-nm
Apparently they use 1.5NM for their hotend nozzle combinations, but it might be different for nozzles or heater blocks made from different materials. It is the only 3d printing company though that I have seen to communicate an actual value.
Apparently they use 1.5NM for their hotend nozzle combinations, but it might be different for nozzles or heater blocks made from different materials. It is the only 3d printing company though that I have seen to communicate an actual value.
Yeah there are lots of printable versions of nozzle changers that use about the same tq value.
3dCase
Well-known member
Those torques from tables are in particular types of material as well (as they also mention but then forget to state which specific one is for the table), not just related to the class of the bolt. So torque in steel is as per most tables, torque in aluminium is appreciably lower and in plastic it is lower still. The torque for an insert is therefore not the torque for that class of bolt in steel but for plastic, since the lowest strength will yield first, which in the case of the insert is the plastic. If I find specific tables for different materials I will try to post them, but I am going on holiday kind of as of tomorrow......so don't hold your breath!
3dCase
Well-known member
Ok so I found one but it is imperial so you can use it but you have to convert both size and the torque before you can use it for your metric stuff.
Instantly obvious is the huge differences between stainless and nylon. It is very important to appreciate, and to adapt your approach to reflect this.
Torque Table Standard Bolt Sizes SAE
The following suggested tightening torques provide an excellent starting point for determining torque requirements. Remember, you may need to vary these numbers somewhat based on the individual joint or the amount of fastener lubrication.
www.engineersedge.com
Instantly obvious is the huge differences between stainless and nylon. It is very important to appreciate, and to adapt your approach to reflect this.
canassa
New member
Having an official torque specification for the printers would be very useful, in my opinion. During my 2.4 build, I broke a few printed parts due to over-tightening. Bolts going loose also seems to be a common issue for many people.
Most of the torque tables found online are based on bolt strength. In many mechanical assemblies, the bolts are intentionally designed to be the weakest part since it is much easier to replace a stripped bolt than a stripped tapped hole on an expensive part. However, this is not the case for our 3D printers. The 3D-printed parts and heat inserts are more likely to fail before the 10.9 bolts do.
Most of the torque tables found online are based on bolt strength. In many mechanical assemblies, the bolts are intentionally designed to be the weakest part since it is much easier to replace a stripped bolt than a stripped tapped hole on an expensive part. However, this is not the case for our 3D printers. The 3D-printed parts and heat inserts are more likely to fail before the 10.9 bolts do.
3dCase
Well-known member
That is why I stated the difference between the materials being fastened as well. And the loose bolts is because thermo-plastics always display pressure creep or stress creep. Basically the material does not like stress or pressure and the structure will change itself to a new position that has less stress or pressure. So if you fasten a piece of plastic you must periodically check them.
Some plastics are worse then others. PETG for instance is really one of the worse plastics for this and as such people who have a ratrig often complain about bolts coming loose since the ratrig parts originally are in PETG. Most people replace them with ASA and this is much better.
As for official values for torques on 3d printers they do not exist. Just use your best judgement for aluminium parts and for the plastic parts. Use the chart for alu and for nylon for instance or use the build in torque sensor in your fingers.
And don't forget, tight TIGHTER LOOSE!
