upgrade voron 2.4 with afterburner from E3Dv6 to >>> REVO voron <<< hotend

[waldopepper]

Printer Model

voron 2.4

Extruder Type

Clockwork 1

Cooling Type

Afterburner

Wanted to upgrade my voron 2.4 with the standard afterburner toolhead from E3Dv6 to REVO voron hotend.
Is there any printable adapter for this purpose ? Or did I buy the wrong revo hotend ?
Attached a pic showing my spare E3Dv6 hotend and the one from the "Revo Voron" upgrade-kit.

 

[NoGuru]

I think you would have to create your own, or switch to the updated "Steathburner" hotend.

 

[lord-carlos]

Does afterburner support revo?
I know for steathburner there is a revo hotend parts that you can print.
If you want you can do revo steathburner, with clockwork1. That way you don't need to switch motor.

 

[vinnycordeiro]

Does afterburner support revo?

No, it doesn't.

Is there any printable adapter for this purpose ? Or did I buy the wrong revo hotend ?

There is no official adapter for the Revo Voron on the Afterburner, so you have two options:

1. You can swap the Afterburner for a Stealthburner. That will probably need you to buy additional parts to be able to make the change;
2. You can buy a Revo Micro hotend, as it is designed to be a drop-in replacement for the V6.

 

[SchlongkyDong]

Afterburner actually supports the Revo Voron. Was added 2 years ago

 

[vinnycordeiro]

Afterburner actually supports the Revo Voron. Was added 2 years ago

I stand corrected.

 

[SchlongkyDong]

I stand corrected.

Easy enough to miss, considering the Revo Voron came during the SB beta

 

[MagicToolbox]

Switching from CW1 & Afterburner to StealthBurner may not be a simple job either. My Fysetc kit came with a 16 pin connector for the included toolhead PCB. The StealthBurner toolhead PCB's seem to have 14 pins. I was all ready to make the switch, but when I double checked the pin out of the connector (having heard some stories of fried boards) I realized my wiring was not going to be compatible.

Now I'm collecting parts and courage to try CAN bus...

 

[waldopepper]

Thanks for the answers, SchlongkyDong's hint works nicely.
Also found a nice storage for the nozzles: here . Had to split the front skirt because the long bridges over the honeycomb grid did not look the part.

 

[Mike Eitel]

Have a look on your wanted mm3/s flow...