Voron 2.4 has differnt problems

[martinklaus]

Extruder Type

Clockwork 2

Cooling Type

Stealthburner

Hello voron users,

I'm struggling to get my voron 2.4 really working. The problems addressing different arrays of my prints.
I have an voron 2.4 with 300mm with following problems:

1. Bad first layer bed adhesion on complex parts with holes, like the stealthburner body part.
2. Bad overhangs that I'm not able to print the nevermore body.
3. Parts are general too big that I'm not able to put parts like the latch together (parts from the same print)
4. Tool head often has timeout

I'm using the following parts:

• Funssor Misumi HFSB5-2020 Extrusion Frame Kit For Voron 2.4 Trident 3d Printer Black Anodized Blind Joints V 2.4 EXTRUSIONS

• E3D Revo 24v 104NT hotend
• EBB SB2209 CAN V1.0（RP2040）toolhead
• ID5 0.5M 17T dual drive extruder gear kit Hardening steel DDB DDE can be use for VORON ender 3 CR10 Tevo Tornado (Smooth side)
• Mellow D2F-01Klicky PCB Kit Voron

• BIGTREETECH Manta M8PControl Board running Klipper with CB1
• FYSETC JanusBPS Double Sided PEI Spring Steel Sheet (Textured And Smooth) 305*305mm Pre-Applied PEI steel for Voron 300
• Filament eSUN abs+ black

What I can check step by step to get my printer working?
I opened the thread with basic information and will provide more example.
If someone need more information, please tell me and I will provide it.

 

[Fabreeko]

Hey @martinklaus, Welcome to the forum!

there seems to be multiple things wrong with your printer, here is what i would do

1. Bad first layer bed adhesion on complex parts with holes, like the stealthburner body part. - first layer adhesion is typically due to wrong z offset, oily pei plate, incorrect bed temperatures or a combination of these. Post of pictures of the first layer and what it looks like on a print, this will help us rule out z offset, for esun abs+ i print at 255 in the nozzle and 100-110 on the bed

2. Bad overhangs that I'm not able to print the nevermore body. This is definitely a cooling issue, maybe a weak 5015 fan on the kit? We have some awesome fans available if you want to check them out

3. Parts are general too big that I'm not able to put parts like the latch together (parts from the same print) - print a voron calibration cube and measure it, it should be 20mm x 20mm post some pictures and we can helo dial in dimensional accuracy also check your belt tension that is fairly even on both sides

4. Tool head often has timeout - this sounds like overheating or a baud rate problem. Does it happen after long prints or just randomly?

 

[martinklaus]

Hey @martinklaus, Welcome to the forum!

there seems to be multiple things wrong with your printer, here is what i would do

1. Bad first layer bed adhesion on complex parts with holes, like the stealthburner body part. - first layer adhesion is typically due to wrong z offset, oily pei plate, incorrect bed temperatures or a combination of these. Post of pictures of the first layer and what it looks like on a print, this will help us rule out z offset, for esun abs+ i print at 255 in the nozzle and 100-110 on the bed

2. Bad overhangs that I'm not able to print the nevermore body. This is definitely a cooling issue, maybe a weak 5015 fan on the kit? We have some awesome fans available if you want to check them out

3. Parts are general too big that I'm not able to put parts like the latch together (parts from the same print) - print a voron calibration cube and measure it, it should be 20mm x 20mm post some pictures and we can helo dial in dimensional accuracy also check your belt tension that is fairly even on both sides

4. Tool head often has timeout - this sounds like overheating or a baud rate problem. Does it happen after long prints or just randomly?

1. You have a good PEI in mind that I can order in Germany. I reduced the offset a little bit regarding the brim was between 0.21 and 0.22.
The first layer has different height regarding where you're measuring. I'm not sure about the bed from fermio labs.
Maybe get a better switch, mounting or bed solves the problem.
2. This voron is not from a kit, it's self sourced from fermio labs. My fans are from Aliexpress.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...o.order_list.order_list_main.5.47581802pkmVaC
24VDual Ball 8500RPM
What speed should the fan have?
3. Reduce flow to 0.93 and it looks much better. But I still have these artifacts around holes and corners. Belt tension is perfect, did it with a digital tension meter.
But I have problem with the gantry, is not really square and the motors are handing down. Maybe I should reprint the x_drive_frame_x parts? The problem is I build it with PIF parts, that means i have no other printer that the not working one.
4. My Chamber is mostly under 50°C and it's only during bed mesh and QGL

 

[Fabreeko]

1. You have a good PEI in mind that I can order in Germany. I reduced the offset a little bit regarding the brim was between 0.21 and 0.22.
The first layer has different height regarding where you're measuring. I'm not sure about the bed from fermio labs.
Maybe get a better switch, mounting or bed solves the problem.
2. This voron is not from a kit, it's self sourced from fermio labs. My fans are from Aliexpress.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...o.order_list.order_list_main.5.47581802pkmVaC
24VDual Ball 8500RPM
What speed should the fan have?
3. Reduce flow to 0.93 and it looks much better. But I still have these artifacts around holes and corners. Belt tension is perfect, did it with a digital tension meter.
But I have problem with the gantry, is not really square and the motors are handing down. Maybe I should reprint the x_drive_frame_x parts? The problem is I build it with PIF parts, that means i have no other printer that the not working one.
4. My Chamber is mostly under 50°C and it's only during bed mesh and QGL

For beds in germany check 3do.dk they sell Honeybadger which is manufactured by us. Try to get a semi satin or textured bed they work great with abs.

Fermio makes great parts so that should not be the issue, the 8500 on the fan sounds average and should work good enough. Is it a 24v fan?

Regarding gantry squareness, have you de racked it? There is a few great videos from Nero and other builders showing the process and it will help get everything aligned properly which is very important in the 2.4

 

[martinklaus]

For beds in germany check 3do.dk they sell Honeybadger which is manufactured by us. Try to get a semi satin or textured bed they work great with abs.

Fermio makes great parts so that should not be the issue, the 8500 on the fan sounds average and should work good enough. Is it a 24v fan?

Regarding gantry squareness, have you de racked it? There is a few great videos from Nero and other builders showing the process and it will help get everything aligned properly which is very important in the 2.4

This video from Nero is completely useless and not working for me. The bells are not lose enough in my printer and no matter what I'm doing, the right back corner is still bouncing. But if this is the case, then in the front it should be the left side, but this is fine.

Forgot also about the mod, the idler are not default anymore.

Voron2.4 GE5C by hartk1213

This mod replaces the stack of printed z joints with a metal spherical bearing

mods.vorondesign.com

Step by step instructions how to do it with the mod would be nice.

 

[NoGuru]

I agree, racking the gantry is going to be very important and often overlooked step.
Tuning can help you get dialed in. This is the best guide to tuning a printer on the web. https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/?mwg_rnd=5514006

Also any and all Honeybadger parts are the best of the best and I can highly recommend.

 

[lord-carlos]

> I reduced the offset a little bit regarding the brim was between 0.21 and 0.22.

If would not try to get a perfect 0.2mm first layer, but rather one that sticks well and without artifacts. Depending on what build plate you have and material you print, you might want to squish it more.

> This video from Nero is completely useless

The basics should still be the same. It's important that you start of with a square frame while you don't have belts on, or very lose belts.

> Bad overhangs that I'm not able to print the nevermore body.

What fan speed are you printing with?

 

[martinklaus]

> I reduced the offset a little bit regarding the brim was between 0.21 and 0.22.

If would not try to get a perfect 0.2mm first layer, but rather one that sticks well and without artifacts. Depending on what build plate you have and material you print, you might want to squish it more.

> This video from Nero is completely useless

The basics should still be the same. It's important that you start of with a square frame while you don't have belts on, or very lose belts.

> Bad overhangs that I'm not able to print the nevermore body.

What fan speed are you printing with?

The problem with square frame I have from the first day. I bought 3 frames from different manufactures, the problem was every time the same.

It was never like this, I screwed two profiles together and never got a right angle like in the video. Should I try to buy a LDO frame again?

What fan speed are you printing with?
I tried it with 30% and 40%.

I attached a photo, it looks pretty good, I think. I also de racked the printer again.

 

[Fabreeko]

Also any and all Honeybadger parts are the best of the best and I can highly recommend.

You are making me blush

 

[RocknRolla]

Sounds rough. I hope things fall into place for you. I would tackle and prioritize as follows:

1) Physical build... It does not need to be perfect, but it does need to be good. If you are talking a gantry that is a few millimeters off square, I would call it good enough and move forward. If you are talking centimeters rather than millimeters, I would try again with squaring it. If it keeps going (for example) 1cm out of square when you tighten the screws again, then consider putting it 1cm out of square in the opposite direction before you tighten. It should pull (near) perfectly square when you tighten after that.

2) Eliminate as many unknowns as possible while calibrating and configuring... I notice you are using eSun ABS+. I would try that filament after getting it printing well on something with a better reputation. eSun ABS+ has 28% negative reviews VS. 4% for Polymaker ABS and 8% for Hatchbox ABS. You might just be experiencing what 28% of their reviewers are complaining about. Of course, also dry whatever filament you are using too.

3) At this point (confirmed by your voron cube), you are printing some things very well. I know for my case, this has been a step-by-step process of troubleshooting new things with new prints. I had everything printing beautifully. Then I tried to print a thing shaped like a picture frame and discovered that was a torture test for warping. So I had to dial in my temps a little better. Bridging is going to be about bridging speed (slow), cooling (high), hotend temp (lower) and chamber temp (lower).

The obvious problem is that what is good for bridging is bad for other considerations. So you have to print and adjust each of those until you find settings that allow for bridging without ruining something else. Good luck!

 

[martinklaus]

Square difference between the side is les then 1mm. I ordered ploymaker filament, I'm done with esun. Hopefully is not hat visual that the black is different.

I had a really good print after derack and I tried to make it even better an made it worse again. I will to it again when I'm not sick anymore.

The bridging problem is the following, it's looks perfect out from the nozzle during it's flying. But then it's not attaching to the part and falling down.

 

[martinklaus]

I'm still not able to derack the gantry in the right way. I removed it completely and aligned everything correctly again. I will try to build it in again this days.

The step with aligning the screws holes on the gantry is challenging me.

Maybe the screw on the x join was to lose, the two were different apart.

 

[NoGuru]

I'm still not able to derack the gantry in the right way. I removed it completely and aligned everything correctly again. I will try to build it in again this days.

The step with aligning the screws holes on the gantry is challenging me.

Maybe the screw on the x join was to lose, the two were different apart.

So what I would do is attach it and loosen all the screws that hold the extrusions, but just a little, then start racking and slowly, I mean very slowly start to tighten them, like less then a quarter turn each screw while moving it back and forth between each turn.

 

[martinklaus]

So what I would do is attach it and loosen all the screws that hold the extrusions, but just a little, then start racking and slowly, I mean very slowly start to tighten them, like less then a quarter turn each screw while moving it back and forth between each turn.

It's absolute not working, I am trying it for weeks. I need help with it and not sure how I should get it. Not sure if it's the frame or the esun parts are to soft. The problem is not the squareness, but if I'm starting to tight the belt it's racked or uneven tight.

 

[Aeronut]

Are your X/Y belts identical lengths? If they're different, you'll have gantry squaring problems for sure.