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What do you want to see in the V0.2 assembly manual?

a lot of people struggled with the callouts for hex nut insertions. some form of graphical indicator might help
Especially with the carriage needing two that get pressed down quite far, there could be some callouts for it.
 
Minor but helpful, callout that you should NOT use any nut inserts or anything on the door magnets that attach to the extrusions. I had done the printed nut inserts when I built mine, but there is not enough room to use them here.. (or, make a 2-nut insert mod) specifically for those.
 
A defect awareness section at the start that illustrates common pitfalls and mistakes to avoid. I appreciated the "check your work" notes at the end of some sections, but it can be helpful to provide a preemptive warning for the people who jump right into the build without a thorough readthrough of the work instructions first.
 
I have a few complaints/possible improvements. All of these are taking the "manual" moniker at a face value, they might be irrelevant if the "manual" is supposed to be just a reference.
  1. More commentary overall explaining some of the graphics would be extremely helpful.
    1. Minor: the extrusion reference could have a few words saying that it is showing the two profiles of the extrusions, not each individual extrusion.
    2. Major: Better calling out of the screws. Page 34 is a nice example of a problematic page - the screws are really small and the blue colour isn't that contrasting, at least to my eyes. Possibly having a small section in a corner of each page saying how many/which screws are used on the page?
    3. Major (?): There has got to be a better way to indicate a side of the profile. One example could be using different colours for each of the channels on a page and highlighting that channel with that colour. Same goes for when the frame/printer is being shown inverted/rotated, some anchoring point/coloured bottom would be really helpful.
    4. Minor: It could be mentioned that the front idlers have different heights and which side they go onto is important. Yes, there is the check your work on page 56, but it somehow did not save me from making this mistake.
  2. Why is the X-rail not mounted with the rest of the rails, but later on in the manual? It makes more sense to clean/grease/mount all of the rails in one go, instead of getting everything dirty multiple times.
  3. The creator intended orientation of the Z-stepper in regards to which side should the cables be coming out of could be mentioned.
  4. The PSU finger guard page should have some serious warning symbols on it so that people don't forget to cover up the mains terminals.
  5. I don't know whether this is my problem, but I understood from the manual that the PSU should be butted into the corner. However, this makes it impossible to mount the inner screws on stock skirts without access holes, because the PSU is in the way.
  6. The handle for the front door is shown on the graphic on page 150 as being at the edge of the acrylic plate, however it needs to be offset like a centimeter inwards in order to engage the magnets fully.
  7. This will probably be obsoleted by V0.2, but the tophat part of the manual does not mention that there are two pairs of joining pieces (page 155, left) instead of 4 identical ones. Took me a while to figure that one out. Same goes for the cutout for the hinge screw, it should probably be highlighted separately, it is not obvious from the graphics that the top hat is asymmetrical. In addition, is it even possible to insert all of the acrylic parts before the joining pieces are screwed in? I had to first screw everything in just a little and then insert the acrylic segments, otherwise it did not stay together enough.
 
kubik touched on this briefly, but showing the orientation of the stepper wires would be helpful. I'm still building my v0 but Im pretty certain Im going to have to rotate my A/B motors before I finish it up.

Also adding the correct tension for the belts would be useful, page 86 mentions tightening the belts but leaves you to figure out what that means. I finally found the preferred 110hz@150mm, perhaps even a link to https://docs.vorondesign.com/tuning/secondary_printer_tuning.html would help.
 
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As mentioned the illustrations for where to place the tnuts in the frame at times can be confusing and need more clarification.

Something which I thought of during the week, while building I loosely placed screws on the bus so they don't slide around. What would be hand is if I knew the correct screw size for each nut while inserting them.
 
I would like to suggest 2 other things. There are a lot of explaination on how to get everything square, but nothing about the leadscrew. There is nothing that mention how to align well the leadscrew, in order to avoid any wear of the POM nut.

One amazing bonus, would be to show how to disassemble the tool head, and dismount the rail for maintenance or replacement, in case of issue.
In my case, when I was done assembling the printer, I had an issue with my z rail not being properly parrallel, and it created friction. I was terrified of disassembling the printer, seeing how early it got assembled, and how long it took until that point to finish the printer.
 
A smaller manual containing all the bits to upgrade a v0.1 to a v0.2 would be nice?

Happy to chip in with this and/or the main manual if you want? (I work in internal quality and knock documents up for work) drop me a PM

The only thing I really picked up on when doing the v0.1 was the lack of a printed tool or description on how to correctly centralise the Z-lead screw. Although this does come with a bit of common sense and engineering knowledge it could be a useful addition?

Whilst we’re here on the subject is there a rough timeline for release / beta test?

Cheers,

Kyle
 
Online manual written in markdown (so anybody can do PRs to github) with SVG drawings. We could add animations too. More importantly, it would allow users to "check off" the steps completed. It would also accept custom notes and bookmarks. I know kits are now the BOMb but it would be really nice to have an online interactive BOM for self sourcing.

This could be built with a tool like SolidJS and deployed as a free statically generated site.
 
For a first build I thought the manual was pretty solid! Here are my observations from that and from all the pain-points I read about to prepare for my build.
  1. I think there needs to be a clearer indication that the steps are starting. I have seen people say they missed the cable chain step, and I think this is because of that. The manual jumps straight from reference information to actionable steps. I think a better indication that the first steps are starting vs reference info for later would solve this.
  2. It is tricky to tell which end is which on the cable chain.
  3. Nut bars: a zoomed-in view of their orientation would be nice.
  4. Pg. 36 with the panel with holes confused me haha. I thought I was missing a panel for a sec.
  5. Details on centering the leadscrew would be nice.
  6. The M3x16 screw in the x-endstop was twice as long as needed on my build. How it is shown might lead people to lose some x-axis travel.
  7. The belt routing pages felt like they were missing info on how much belt to leave when cutting them. I have seen a lot of people trim theirs flush, but this makes rerouting them difficult.
  8. The magnet sheet shows holes, but has no explanation of how to add them.
  9. I second showing the recommended orientation of the stepper motor wires.
  10. Adding on to kubik’s #5 as I had the same issue.
  11. And #7, the direction of the tophat joins was a little hard to see since they look so symmetrical.
  12. An alternate wiring diagram to make the mains switch only light when switched on would be great.
  13. An extra callout bringing attention to wiring the 5v fan to 5v (pg. 137). I have seen several people kill these fans with 24v.
  14. I too made the mistake of using those no-drop nut mods everywhere. There were a couple spots they did not work, but because I printed them with PLA I was able to heatgun them and pull them out with no disassembly required. They are a mod however, so it might be better to have that mentioned in their docs.
 
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