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wiring and why to use what they recommend in the specs!

3dCase

Well-known member
So I have decided. After the third wire breakage on the hotend heater I am giving up on this cable chain business.
Also I am going to replace the wrong types of wiring for silicone type insulation. All this moving around is not good for fiber insulated wiring or PVC insulation. Several fan wires also had repairs to them when I required my machine. Good reminder for those who think of building one of these, keep to the specified types of wiring!

Thinking of running a pneumatic tube with a piano wire inside as shape keeper. Then use spiral wraparound to keep the cables together. I think I will use short pieces of the wraparound so I am not dealing with meters of the stuff when you have to remove it for some reason.

Nothing more aggravating then yet another "Heater did not heat as expected. Klipper reports shutdown!" :mad:
 
Neither for the moment. Think I will rethink the whole thing tbh. Actually quite unhappy about this machine in general and not sure I want to constantly trouble shoot somebody else’s mess. Comes a point where you realise you cannot see your limit anymore because you are standing right on it.
I am sure this machine is not my future hapiness in 3d printing this way, and either I chuck it out altogether or I take it apart completely and rebuild it my way.
The later is what will happen I think.
 
I have had lots of printers and for me a Voron is a fun hobby printer to tinker with. If I want something that just works I use my Bambu labs X1C.
 
I have had lots of printers and for me a Voron is a fun hobby printer to tinker with. If I want something that just works I use my Bambu labs X1C.
But I take it you built your own Voron. That tinkering is an extension to your hobby and interests that made you build that printer.
I am chasing somebody else’s faults and although that is my job on a daily basis, it is not part of my hobby. So that is why I stated I think I will reclaim this hobby and rebuild this printer my way.
I am sure you can agree that if the hobby starts being interfered with by things you are forced to rectify frequently, the fun part might get lost eventually.
 
But I take it you built your own Voron. That tinkering is an extension to your hobby and interests that made you build that printer.
I am chasing somebody else’s faults and although that is my job on a daily basis, it is not part of my hobby. So that is why I stated I think I will reclaim this hobby and rebuild this printer my way.
I am sure you can agree that if the hobby starts being interfered with by things you are forced to rectify frequently, the fun part might get lost eventually.
Oh I completely agree with you. No one has the same skill as the next person and unless they are way more skilled then me I would rebuild it as well.
 
Thinking of running a pneumatic tube with a piano wire inside as shape keeper. Then use spiral wraparound to keep the cables together. I think I will use short pieces of the wraparound so I am not dealing with meters of the stuff when you have to remove it for some reason.
@3dCase If the tube is too stiff, it might affect the "verticality" of the carriage head. If that verticality angle is +1 degree on the far end of the print area and -1 degree on the near end of the print area, that would adversely affect the print accuracy.
 
@labradorius
non-parallel manifestations of critical gantry movements will result in a partial misalignment of planar layer interaction, in undesired resonance with "verticality" transfer functions of the carriage head , required to generate planar harmony within the reality model.

Or in other words,

“ I know you think you understand what you thought I said but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant”

― Alan Greenspan
;)
 
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