Z offset changes every print

[thisisit]

Printer Model

Voron Trident

Extruder Type

Clockwork 2

Cooling Type

Stealthburner

I finished building my trident about a week ago and since then I'm trying to trouble shoot this z-offset fuckery. The z-offset seems to change after every print. The picture shows three 1st layer prints that were done in succession with the same exact settings(slicer and klipper) after I calibrated the my z offset.Anyone wants to take pity on me and help me resolve this madness inducing issue I'm struggling with?
Things I checked/tried so far:

- tighten every screw about which it's not explicitly stated in the build doc not to thighten
- rechecked the probe position in the toolhead and made sure it sticks out 6mm out as stated in the documentation
-calibrated the z offset(using the method from the pinned comment in #voron_trident_questions from the voron discord) at different bed/nozzle temperatures and different bed heat soaking periods

 

[lord-carlos]

What probe are you using?

Tap (or (PCB)Klicky with auto z) should be pretty decent for always same z height no matter what temp.

 

[thisisit]

What probe are you using?

Tap (or (PCB)Klicky with auto z) should be pretty decent for always same z height no matter what temp.

I'm using the one included in the formbot kit, Omron induction proble.

 

[brianvoe]

I had these issues too. Mine ended up being because my aluminum bed plate was still expanding due to it heating up. Make sure you bed has fully heated and has stopped expanding til you print.

 

[thisisit]

I had these issues too. Mine ended up being because my aluminum bed plate was still expanding due to it heating up. Make sure you bed has fully heated and has stopped expanding til you print.

I tried soaking the bed anywhere from 10mins to 60, it didn't seem to make any difference. Thanks though for the reminder.

 

[kullwarrior]

What you're encounter is expected for induction probe; they're the reason Klicky and TAP are popular.

AFAIK most 'Omron induction probe' are counterfeit hence you can find aliexpress $20 for pack of ten; genuine one from Omron are $100/unit. With that said, I don't know if the genuine one will have as severe drift as the clones.

You can employ Z Thermal Adjust but from my experience it is inconsistent as you need a probe to measure the probe (or chamber temperature itself. While I was using induction probe, I adjusted the print start where I had to manually home and set z-offset prior to print -needless to say I went with Klicky.

 

[thisisit]

What you're encounter is expected for induction probe; they're the reason Klicky and TAP are popular.

AFAIK most 'Omron induction probe' are counterfeit hence you can find aliexpress $20 for pack of ten; genuine one from Omron are $100/unit. With that said, I don't know if the genuine one will have as severe drift as the clones.

You can employ Z Thermal Adjust but from my experience it is inconsistent as you need a probe to measure the probe (or chamber temperature itself. While I was using induction probe, I adjusted the print start where I had to manually home and set z-offset prior to print -needless to say I went with Klicky.

I have a sovol sv06($200 printer) that came with an induction probe as well, and while I do need to recalibrate the z offset from time to time, I get perfect 1st layers for at least 30 prints. The probe that came with my voron kit(formbot), which at least looked to me like the real thing, must either be faulty or I overlooked something,
Both klicky and tap are appealing. I'll need to give at least one of them a go and see if they help, Thanks!

 

[nice to meet you]

I had a great sensor named IDM sensor, no temperature shift, accurate and fast.
run BED_MESH then takes about 1 minute with 40 x 40 points