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Thanks. I got this same answer on discord because it was quiet here for a while.
My problem now is that I cannot find that connect in my boxes of parts and I cannot find the name/designation of that connector.
I read through this thread and it did not seem to help: https://forum.vorondesign.com/threads/unable-to-read-tmc-uart-stepper_x-register-ifcnt.496/ I also got lost once it got too technical with the info about different versions of Katapult. It seems he got around the problem by swapping the...
I'm building a Fysetc Voron 2.4 kit with a Spider 2.2 main board. The plan is to set up CAN bus as well.
This is my first foray into electronic wiring. Although I'm familiar with US and German auto wiring "standards," some of the wiring colors seem random in this kit.
First: Are the wires...
TL;DR: Fix it by turning on the fan
This bothered the cr@p out of me, and I just could not let it go. I printed a complete set of parts, mostly badly, and I was unhappy. I din not want to spend over a grand and a lot of time on a printer with cr@ppy looking printed parts.
I tuned it with...
There are several build series videos other there by Nero3d and "Steve Builds" These are long, live builds that go into a lot of detail (and a lot of side information too). Watching these guys gave me the confidence that I could handle this project. The videos help particularly with the...
@Zephyrus67 , I haven't build my Voron yet, so take this with a grain of salt, but I have found reported hotend and bed temps to be more like an estimate. I routinely have to run my Ender 3 at 10-15 degrees hotter than what a filament requires to get decent results. I will probably invest in a...
I have been printing for a couple of years in only PLA so everything else is totally foreign to me. All the Voron resources imply that ABS is the way to go so I didn't even think about ASA. I'll check out ASA and see if I get better results.
@LoadMaster7 that's kind of how I was expecting I would have to procede. Not thrilled about the possibility of having to randomly rebuild the printer as it fails. I guess my first prints will be Voron parts.
The first thing that I played around with after temperature was speed, any speed between 30 - 60 gave me the same results. I went to the Prusa Slicer defaults for ABS and for the latest print I slowed it down from 50 to 40 for perimeters and bumped the infill from 35% to 40%.
Here's a screen...
Trying to print the parts for a 2.4 R2. I must have run through a spool of ABS trying to get the quality OK, but when I print at 40% infill, I get a lot of gaps or underextruded sections. If I drop infill to 30% or 35% its better - almost resolved. I did find that Hatchbox ABS has less...
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