Recent content by Saikedo

Yeah, had the same setup when I finished my build and so far no issues,

Hi everyone, got a quick question about HARTK STEALTHBURNER 2 PIECE TOOLHEAD PCB, hope this is the right place for this. I am trying to figure out the wiring connection for this thing and was not sure what to do with (HE0 V+) 24V and (PSU V-) GND wires. Tried googling it but found conflicting...

Ah I see, so they get connected as separate modules then and are not meant to be connected to one another right? (meaning one will not serve as an expansion for the other one). Thanks.

Hi, I was wondering if someone knows where can I find some guides or wiring diagrams for SKR 1.4 when building Voron 2.4 R2. Voron documentation has some good material but I was not sure how I am suppose to connect and use the second board since it seems like I need 2 SKR 1.4`s for Voron 2.4...

I was using hatchbox ABS before, there was no recommendation for bed temp for that. I switched to Paramount 3D now (it`s a bit less shiny, which I like) and Paramount 3D is recommending 100-110 for the bed but I still run it at 95 and had 0 issues with sticking/warping. I also use Qidi X-CF Pro...

Note, after disassembling the carriage, I can see now that balls actually roll through the plastic when they are inside. Is that bad? Will the rails perform as well as the full metal ones? This was supposed to be a mid-tier rail.

Hi, I ordered some linear rails from zyltech and the carriages that I receive look a bit different from what was shown on the website. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these to see if there are any negative aspects for the ones that I received. The website shows carriages that...

To anyone who will stumble upon this post with similar issues. It turned out that my major issue here was the bed temperature. Everyone keeps saying that we need high bed temps for ABS printing, well it turned out that there can be too much of good stuff :) I was running my bed at 110C and...

Its not pulling off the bed at all actually. The bottom of the print is perfectly flat (at least in my latest attempts). Its just couple of layers above the first one it shrinks and then halfway through the print it kinda stabilizes.

@NoGuru The filament as dry as it can be. Dried for like 24 hours and it is still sitting in filament dryer while printing. Part cooling is turned off (I also tried with 20% fan speed and got the same result). As for speeds, I am printing slower than my regular speeds hoping that it will turn...

The dots are not the z seams, that was the first thing I checked. Z seam is on the opposite side of those dots. As for the bed. Tried every type of bed there is :) Actually the bed adhesion is perfect now, no part of the print gets curled away from bed but the bottom part still warps while bed...

Hi, I am attempting a Voron 2.4 build and I am having some issues when it comes to printing the ABS parts. Hoping someone will have some advice for me so I can improve the printed parts quality. Now I know that this is not ideal because a lot of things depend on filament use, the 3d printer used...

Awesome guys, so the side with 5 holes is the back then. Thank you very much.

Hi everyone, sorry for a noob question. Any idea which is the front and which is back for this bed? One side has 5 holes and the other side has 4 (the side with 4 holes also have 2 holes near it on the left and right sides). Tried looking at the documentation and cad models but these holes are...

Sorry for my very poor choice of words :) I mean I got a magnetic bed (aluminium bed with magnets) not a magnetic build plate. Do I still need the PEI sheet from the BOM?