Recent content by StefanT

Hmm, ferrites. Good idea. You can buy them also without cable to clip on existing cables. I think I will add one to the cable to the stealthchanger USB hub (the LDO version of the birds nest). Not that I have this problem but better safe than sorry.

I went with Polymaker ASA lately and it was a joy to print. No problems even on an Ender 3 without enclosure. However, I did the larger skirt parts on the enclosed Voron then.

Sorry for the late reply. Yes this is fine.

I know the OP has a Pi3. But for all those that might read this in the future. For Pi4+ 64bit is said to be faster than 32bit.

Well ... seems like I skipped that part. I found the max value, reduced it like 10%, and went with that.

I read that the bed gets quite heavy and that is the reason why e.g. LDO does not offer a 350 trident. Not sure if this is a valid issue, but maybe something you want to investigate.

The mains wiring works either way. On the low voltage side you should connect the two grounds (the black wires in your diagram) to avoid problems. Ground in your diagram is connected via PI via the two green connections. I would not bet what happens if you unplug the wrong one of the cables.

I know it's not self made, but LDO nowadays sells a tophat kit for stealthchanger builds. It looks to me that this could be used for normal printers like in this case too.

The only thing I had to adjust was the driver_SGTHRS value. Which min/max values do you mean?

To me it looks like the left part in the picture lifted from the build plate. I bought an adhesive for these cases.

Formbot has build notes that state the differences. You find the link to the documentation on their shop page of the printer you purchased. In these you will see that they expect you to have the DIN rails parallel to the bed-holding extrusions, not at a 90 degree angle as the stock build. I did...

Run `dmesg -w` and plug in the NH36. It should print some diagnostics messages if it is detected at all.