Question Advice for leveling and runout sensors

[ForminFunction]

Hello! I was looking into the Chaoticlabs cnc tap v2. Is that any good? Would it work with the H2 V2S I already have? Are there any other taps/Klickys/levelers that you would recommend instead? The same questions for the BTT filament runout sensor.

I've been steadily gathering supplies for my first bed and this part is a bit of a head scratcher for me. Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[Dmitriy]

I just installed the BTT V2.0 runout sensor on my new Trident. The first sensor that I purchased came in broken out of the box. It was an enigma to troubleshoot. BTT tech support was less than helpful. I simply replaced it with another (same model). That one works perfectly. Follow included wiring and Kilpper instructions. It was an easy install, especially since I was connecting the sensor to a BTT board.

Sorry. I can't help you with your tap question. I am running my "stock" Omron probe just fine.

 

[ChrisA]

Hello! I was looking into the Chaoticlabs cnc tap v2. Is that any good? Would it work with the H2 V2S I already have? Are there any other taps/Klickys/levelers that you would recommend instead? The same questions for the BTT filament runout sensor.

I've been steadily gathering supplies for my first bed and this part is a bit of a head scratcher for me. Thanks in advance for any help!

I just heard that there is a new Tap sensor design comming out. The problem with all the current ones is that the input shaper finds that they shake like springs and recommends reducing acceration. Some are worse then others. The ABS printed on seems to be the best. The new design might be expensive as they are taloimg about two rails and CNC, not printed.

My thoughts now for my build is maybe to self-source the best quality rail I can find and print the parts myself. Then after the new design is out, upgrade.

The companies who are selling CNC versions are selling their product based on weight or mass. But what really matters is (1) stiffness) and (2) "play" in the rail. Mass is not what limits print speed, stiffness is.

 

[lrissman]

I use the Chaoticlabas cnc tap v2. It is the only tap that I've used and it seems to work well. Watch the X endstop, the default expects you to rewire your voron -- I ended up printing a bit to utilize the one installed on the gantry -- make sure you print that bit before disassembling your printer, unless you enjoy disassembling and reassembling to print one silly part.

No idea if it will work with H2 V2S. It has a standard bolt pattern compatible with the CW2. If your H2 V2S fits that bolt patter, then i dont see why it wouldnt.

I have a BTT 2.0 sensor.. it's awkward to mount outside the voron assembly due to a 90 degree turn for the standard exhaust setup.. You'll need to look into the exhaust outputs with side filament feeding or something else. However, overall I hate the BTT 2.0 sensor. It works, but it is such a pain to feed the filament.. it needs to be perfectly straight with a perfect angle cut on the filament otherwise it jams inside.. annoying. Maybe it's just mine, or maybe I got a crappy knockoff... but I have a different one on order.