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Solved CAN on spider to RPi

i want to do some upgrades but i have gotten stuck.
controller board is a Fysetc Spider v2.3
for the upgrade i got a "canbus expander for spider" and "SB CAN TH"(stealthburner CAN toolhead)
i have to be honest, im not sure where i am at now.
i got a BTT U2C v2.1, since i thought i needed it, but im pretty sure i bricked that, cant get it to dfu mode, but from what i understand i dont need U2C board with the spider board + CAN expander but klipper CAN bridge.
what i want to do is go from toolhead board to Can expander from can expander to spider board from spider board to rpi 4b but not using can, i will try and illustrate it here:
1689365219780.png
hope this is possible

EDIT: so what i think im gonna do is this
Can someone confirm if this is what i want, but for spider board and sb can th instead of octopus and sb2040
 
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Hi! You should be able to do the Spider -> toolhead board CAN connection with Spider in USB-CAN bridge mode, but you would need to hook up the Spider board over USB and set up the CAN network on your Pi. You can start from here [0] and you should be able to use this guide [1], you just need to use the correct settings for your Spider board :)

[0] https://www.klipper3d.org/CANBUS.html#usb-to-can-bus-bridge-mode
[1] https://maz0r.github.io/klipper_canbus/controller/monster8v2.html
hi,
thank you, that is great to hear :D
i have already spent a couple of hours today, so im currently taking a break.
i dont know why, but i didnt realize that it wont accept usart with usb can bridge... im tired i guess :p
 
update:
so i havent gotten it/everything working yet, but im making progress and learning.
so i took a look at the BTT U2C it wasnt bricked, i just didnt know what i know now, i thought it was stuck in dfu mode, long story short, it is working, and flashed now. i also dropped canboot since i dont really understand it, and getting things working with it. Also i dont know if it is that usable to me to be able to flash over can, how often are you guys utilizing it after first setup?

so now im look for guidance again,
first the jumpers for resistors, i need an explanation on that.
This is how i am understanding it, if im connecting from u2c to a single can node i need the jumper on, but if im connecting to multiple nodes, then it is not needed, like i am showing below. spider board is a node and the toolhead is a node. if it is hard to explain, then please feel free to just tell me when to have the jumpers on and when not

second, how should i go about connecting power, i have figured out 2 options and the first i dont think works now that im looking at it again and typing this. Everything has changed since i started this small upgrade, and started others at the same time.
1689533194939.png
or is option 2 better? the blue line is also a question of, should power be added to u2c when spider board doesnt need power. option 2:
1689533834599.png
(i hope everything makes sense, i´ll glady try and reexplain on anything if needed and i can)
 
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Did you figure this out? I converted both my printers to CAN recently so I might be able to help.
 
Yes, my problem was i could not figure out can boot, everything works now.. Canbus wise that is :p since i switched to tap i havent had a succesfull first layer, but I am slowly working towards that :)
 
I’ve built tap a couple times too. Let me know if I can help.
How many probe points do you have for bedmesh? I think my mesh is too large (8x8 points) and that is where it F up with textured pei, i guess tap is tooo precise? And gets the valleys of the texture?
 
I use adaptive meshing (see https://github.com/kyleisah/Klipper-Adaptive-Meshing-Purging), which creates a set of probe points sized for the given print job. It takes a little work to set up, so I would get the regular meshing to work before diving into this.

I use textured PEI most of the time. You should look at your mesh results (HEIGHTMAP on the left in Mainsail) and see how much variation there is in the height of your bed. Maybe your build plate is warped.

Actually, you should first try to get something to print without meshing to ensure everything works right.
 
I use adaptive meshing (see https://github.com/kyleisah/Klipper-Adaptive-Meshing-Purging), which creates a set of probe points sized for the given print job. It takes a little work to set up, so I would get the regular meshing to work before diving into this.

I use textured PEI most of the time. You should look at your mesh results (HEIGHTMAP on the left in Mainsail) and see how much variation there is in the height of your bed. Maybe your build plate is warped.

Actually, you should first try to get something to print without meshing to ensure everything works right.
sorry i havent replied before now, busy with work.
i have the v2 pcb that accepts 5-24v, but i just noticed that the blue led doesnt turn on, the red led just goes out when probing.
This is my toolhead board
i was told to use IN.0 for TAP, but im wondering if i should use one of the IO.1/2 since it specific say input and output. im currently cleaning up my printer.cfg, since it is a mess, i wanted to try klippain, but sadly it doesnt have my toolhead added yet.
adaptive meshing looks great, im gonna have to get that running when i get running xD

Update: i forgot to take a picture before i went to work, but printing is working tho ofc with no bed mesh it gets to close some place on the bed, might be a little warped, im gonna try get a New print of tap since mine is little funky it seems
Update: changed to solved now that CANBUS is resolved, and my problems now is with tap
 
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@almightyjes I have a Spider v2.2 and the spider can extender as well and a 3bb36 board but I'm struggling to workout how to wire and configure everything. Do I need a U2C in order to get this working?. I noticed you mentioned the can bridge which would mean no u2c but I don't see any documentation on how to make that work and if it is even possible.

I'm still not clear what is the purpose of the spider can extender. Their diagram seems to indicate you still need a u2c board in order to making it work.
 
the spider extender, to my knowledge, came out before klipper had the usb to can bridge function, so before that you needed a usb to can adapter or can-hat for the pi.
Now i havent used usb to can bridge, but from my understanding you connect the extender with the ebb board toolhead and the from usb on spider board to usb on pi (or uart on pi and spider board)
 
Update: changed to solved now that CANBUS is resolved, and my problems now is with tap

Hi! I have planned the same configuration of yours (spider 2.3 with the spider canbus extender connected to the EBB as CAN toolhead), I don't understand how you solved, did you connect everything as in your first image (spider extender to the CAN toolhead and spider-PI with that cable) or whatelse? Thank you!
 
All this discussion and still no Real answer if it works or how to! Best I can do is throw the Spider 2.2 and the extender in the trash and buy an Octopus.
 
This works:
1699113682401.png
but i could not get that to work WITH CANBOOT, so i decided to use CAN on toolhead only, since toolhead is easy to flash without CANBOOT, but the spider board sucks to flash, tbh the spider board to me is just always a struggle to flash(atleast that is where i think my problems were), but im running again, again, again.
i have thought of trying out CANBOOT again sometime, but for now im happy.

Hope this clears thing a little :)
 

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