Decked out Voron - Going all in

[Ch3vr0n]

This is a copy of my reddit post since they pointed me here too.

So after rebuilding my old CR10 max into a klipper based printer. It's time to let it go in about a month when final budget is obtained hopefully soon after. Watched plenty of Canuck Creator (u/ubernero) and 3D Musketeers (u/mobius1ace5) and the decision has been made to build a decked out "balls to the wall" Voron 2.4 350. And i do mean "balls to the wall" no budget restrictions toolchanger. Unless Bondtech INDX comes out between today and beginning of january it'll likely be stealthchanger based. The actual build will be in stages: Stock kit barring switching out the control board/screen/psu immediately > Toolchanger setup but single tool > multi-tool

So far the decision has been made for

• Kit will be an LDO Voron 2.4 350 RevD from 3Djake
• CNC Chaoticlab CNC parts unless i find an LDO kit within the EU
• LDO AWD kit
• CPAP mod? ditched based on current feedback
• Stealthchanger 6 tool fits on a 350 afaik + tophat Toolhead settled: A4T x6 or dragonburner x6 depending on which carriage i and beacon mount i can find
• Beacon on carriage
• Ditch the revo for Dragon HF or go straight for 6 chube compacts? Hotend Settled, Chube Compact x6
• BTT knomi's in tool docks! *Optional*
• Switch the CW1 extruder for high performance ones that can keep up with the hotend~~ Extruder settled, Orbiter v2.5
• recommended camera?
• swap out leviathan controller from the Rev D kit for a BTT Kraken
• Upgrade screen to BTT HDMI 7
• Orbiter smart filament sensors
• Doom cube frame kit
• Rigid panels (either 6mm PC or metal
• Upgraded PSU (LRS-600-24?)
• tophat and longer Z belts? do i need it with dragonburner?
• 48V steppers on X/Y/Z but which ones
• boxturtle + enclosures on each tool for whopping 24 "tools" if possible. Go nuts!

Any remarks? Am i missing anything? Yeah i'm nuts for a 1st voron

PURCHASE REGION: BELGIUM (EU)

 

[5twenty]

ACM panels are awesome, get those, unless you have something beefier in mind.

AWD? - nvm, I see it...I would like to do this mod as well.

Skip Chaoticlab's stuff, hit or miss, though I've had more hits than misses.

Why swap out leviathan? I hear it's good, and they have expansion boards now....

Orbiter...you can use Wristwatch or Galileo 2 with filament runouts, to save a little coin, but your choice.

Screen...I am removing all mine, I just don't use them enough with Klipper machines. I can carry my phone/laptop and use it for moves I need to make while at the printer. But they are nice to look at.

Knomi...I'll be doing the same, I like these little screens.

Tophat shouldn't add much Z to your build, unless you are specifically add more Z somehow...would require new upright extrusions cut right to increase Z...unless I am missing something in your comment?

I like the plan. Indeed, do build it stock first and shake out any issues, then mod it. Though...frame, AWD, tophat, etc (things that require preloaded nuts...) I would do as I build it stock...it sucks tearing it completely down to rebuild, especially since the frame pieces, and non-mechanical-moving parts, won't affect the performance...much.


Good luck, I miss living next to you...but one day I'll return to Benelux and be happy.

 

[Ch3vr0n]

I'd love to do an LDO CNC kit instead of chaoticlabs. I just can't damn find it, that's the problem. Why switch the leviathan, well i wouldn't be going all out if i didn't Filament sensor setup hasn't been fully decided yet, and would be simple to do with a single tool, on a multi tool i'd need spots for 6 different runout sensors. The simplier the setup in that regard probably the better, what's more simple than sensors that mount directly on the extruder? Screen might ditch it. Might not. I can always re-use it for a homeassistant setup.

Top hat isn't much about the adding z-height, it's more "do i need it to avoid losing z-height build volume with the Dragonburner toolhead".

 

[5twenty]

Gotcha! You have a plan it seems, and it makes sense.

If you need someone to buy it here and ship it to you (the LDO CNC Kit that is: https://www.fabreeko.com/products/ldo-cnc-all-wheel-drive-kit-for-voron-v2-4-and-trident...I used to live over there so I'm used to mailing that way...just may take a long time unless you know someone on Glons/Mons/NATO HQ(not sure where in Belgie you are...)

Though we seem to have plenty of people from the Continent here.

 

[Ch3vr0n]

Found an LDO AWD setup from MyRigs3D in France, close enough. Thanks for the offer though. I'm in West Flanders, the other part of the country but i'd drive that way if i had to come pick it up One things just minimally leaves me a little confused. If i get the AWD from LDO are there other parts that can be swiched out for CNC ones?

 

[5twenty]

I'm familiar...Westvleteren was a second home...I lived in NRW, specifically Heinsberg area, so we were in that area almost monthly for my cases of beer.

Good luck, and ping anyone here if you need it, plenty of helpful people on here.

What parts are you concerned about on the switch? You just will not print any gantry parts for non-AWD, and I think all CNC parts negate all printed gantry parts, but I don't have mine in hand yet to make the change on mine.

But I would definitely do what you are doing; build it AWD from the start. Taking the gantry apart after is a bit much, not hard, just cumbersome and annoying.

 

[Ch3vr0n]

Well right now I'm having a bit of trouble which GitHub to use for the models (and which parts I need) but more importantly which toolhead carriage cnc carriage and dock mechanism to get and where to get it

 

[5twenty]

Yes, the shotgun approach to documentation is a bit...undesirable and unprofessional.

Too many projects not linked from each other, too many parts that were "one-offs" that are now default and not included in main repo....a real lack of documentation standards...but I'm a government worker who likes things documented so if I get hit by a bus the business doesn't stop moving.

Other people seem to love inaccurate documentation, like a badge of honor if they can confuse more people than the other.

Just pick a toolhead, any, and concentrate on getting it working. If you want 6 heads, don't use Stealthburner/XOL, but DO USE Dragonburner/Blackbird (though there are some pieces missing-surprise!)/A4T (another one missing spacers for the toolheads they say they support, which aren't anymore! - show me the proper Sherpa spacer now, I dare you!)

But where's your confusion? I see you said you settled on A4T?

 

[Ch3vr0n]

Well 'settled' as in like the looks of it but it's not non-negotiable or unchangeable. I did look at the dragonburner too, except that the A4t (I talked to luke) was designed with the chube compact in mind.

Some lack of documentation is exactly why I'm here. Get it, or switch to something that is documented. I'm doing my extensive research before I embark on the project (just like I do with PC building or anything else I wanna buy)

Simplified I'm looking for a 5 (preferably 6) toolheads with the least amount of build volume loss in XYZ. If that means A4T is out and I 'have to' go with dragonburner+chube compact so be it.

 

[5twenty]

chube compact in mind.

Makes sense, I have one for the Chube Compact as well, and the XOL.

Lots more are coming with support for that hotend, the mount is similar to others, so not too much to change.

I think A4T is fine, I just can't use them as the sherpa-mount holes have changed since I printed mine out last week...or the documentation is so scattered (most likely) I can't find the correct stl for the piece I need, and the other piece I printed has disappeared it seems!!!! This is the issue, non-tech people doing tech stuff INCORRECTLY! Document wannabe-engineers, document!

A4T looks okay, but the documentation and jumping around of files, or straight up removing them, is not okay for my way of doing stuff. So I'm going to go Yavoth or Dragonburner for all 6 of my heads. Was shooting for Blackbird, but their documentation is worse - sorry, it is.

My biggest tip for you, and for anyone else jumping into this engineering space run by non-engineers is to: bookmark everything you find regarding the printer you are building, make a folder for it, and name the bookmarks very meaningfully (as in, if it's a spacer for A4T, name the bookmark "Spacer for A4T and my Slice Mosquito" or similar so you know exactly what it is, and since the folder is named "New 2.4 Build" you'll know what it's for.

And that still might not be enough, so download the sites and supporting files too, so they can't "lose" them for you.

I've done the above, and still gone back to the page only to have the file disappear, or get renamed.

You need to be a git hero for this, as nobody seems to know what it is actually supposed to be used for.

 

[thunderkeys]

It's a lot of ambition for your first build. Generally we recommend to build stock (you'll get better support that way here and on the discord) and then introduce mods to rectify any problems you see with the build from there.

In your initial post, that seems to be the route you're planning to follow, which I applaud - but maybe don't go out and buy everything all at once, lest you change your mind later and then be stuck trying to resell things that are not worth what you paid for them (kinda like a car, a lot of the parts lose their value the second you lay hands on them). A4T, Beacon, screens all seem to be normalish mods that you could probably do alongside the initial stock build. DOOM frames, AWD, MCU swaps ... those are more invovled and I think would benefit from more experience as a VORON owner.

One thing to note - Chube Compact is an *excellent* hotend but maybe not the best suited for multicolor printing with large amounts of swaps, as that looooonnnng meltzone has to be purged on each swap. Less of a problem if you want to roll infinite spool or just swap between accents (which is what I do), less so if you're printing a 2000 swap spiderman bust or something.

 

[Ch3vr0n]

@5twenty Right now i'm lookint into PSU's. I know the OP says LRS-600-24 but the LDO BOM states i might get an RSP psu. When i look those up the RSP's only have 1 24V out while the LRS has multiple. But i wonder. The voron is going to take the place my my current CR10 Max. That thing has 2 PSU's, and RSP-750-24 powering the heatbed and the secondary PSU LRS-75-24. I wonder if i could re-use those in the voron.

Have the 750 power the motors/extruder and the 75W the bed or in some other form
@thunderkeys i have some experience with klipper, as i flipped over a CR10 Max to klipper that had zero documentation and i had to bypass the stock creality transfer board and ribbon cable and even have the bltouch working that creality uses modified cable colors for. That one in its current config uses an SKR mini E3 V3 and an EBB42 gen 1. Works perfectly. And yup i'll be mostly doing the kit barring a few immediate swaps like PSU/controller/Z-motors to high power/high temp ones (LDO 42STH48-2504AH on both Z and AWD). I'd rather switch out the gantry immediately than have to tear it all down after building it.

So start point after initial build would be Stock kit + AWD and the included stealthburner. Test drive it for a couple weeks. Then switch it over to single toolchanger with chube and EBB. Test drive it again for a few weeks then switch to multitool. For that thing and the intended usecase it'll be mostly spool rollover. If i want to do multicolor i have my 4 AMS X1C

The doom cube isn't a neccessity but people on reddit have recommended it (and also from my own searches) to give the base frame some more rigidity when going toolchanger like this. If that's overkill i'm happy to ditch it.

 

[5twenty]

The doom cube isn't a neccessity but people on reddit have recommended it (and also from my own searches) to give the base frame some more rigidity when going toolchanger like this. If that's overkill i'm happy to ditch it.

That is definitely correct. I hadn't planned on adding beefier extrusions, but it certainly can't hurt. I'll see how the 2020 holds up and if not bump it up. Should be too hard, so I won't talk you out of something I may add, so you'll be ahead of the game.

 

[MichaelOToole]

Along with the original Chaoticlab CNC parts I added their Tensioners and Tap... everything was perfect...
I also added CNC latch parts from AliExpress when my plastic latch broke, again these were flawless.

For the PSU's, I would go with Meanwell, including the 5V supply for the Pi. I have used them for years without a single issue and they are well know for their quality.

Upgrade screen to BTT HDMI 7 sounds nice but as I always use my main PC, I rarely use/need the current screen, but if used independantly, a larger screen makes sense.

The leviathan board was designed for Voron why change it?

 

[Ch3vr0n]

Definitely going meanwell with the PSU. The question is just do i get a 600W or do i pull the 750 from my CR10. If i go that route is it powerful enough to supply the board/6 tools and heaters or do i add that 125W secondary PSU the CR10 has too. If i do, what do i power with it. Why switch out the leviathan, i don't wanna use a CM module or subject a pi to heat from the board Besides, whats the point of an "all out build" if you don't go all out