Issue w/ left side print quality

[Alan]

I just finished building my LDO 350 2.4. I need a few beers after that... It was A LOT more work than building my MK3. My first print (ABS) had poor adhesion to the LDO bed. (I didn't apply anything but just cleaned it well with alcohol). For 2nd print I used Kapton tape with ABS juice on top of that. So far the adhesion seems strong. Can ABS be printed reliably on the LDO textured bed without some type of adhesive applied to it?

The print quality from both prints on the left side is poor compared to the right side. It's worse in 0.2 than 0.1. First print was at 0.1 and 2nd 0.2 layer height, AMZ3D ABS, 240 nozzle, 110 bed & chamber at 57. There are unsupported overhangs on the back from where ridges are being created along the path of the nozzle way past the end of the overhang. Guessing maybe a few variables at work here beyond my pay grade. Prior to the Voron I basically just printed in PETG or PLA. Any suggestions beyond the Initial LDO setup tips to do? I just looked at the secondary tuning section and have not yet done the audio test for belt tensioning. Overall the ABS quality to me appears fair at best.

 

[NoGuru]

With such a large format printer you need to do a lot of tuning. I would put your focus on that for a good bit.
Go through the secondary tuning and this My Bible tuning guide.
It could also be the filament you are using.
As far as bed adhesion, make sure Z offset is well calibrated. Heatsoak for an hour if possible. And start slow, I make my first layer half the speed of my print.

 

[Alan]

Thanks or link. Did belt tensioning calibration and no significant change. My MK3 with a 0.6mm nozzle has better prints than my Voron with 0.4mm. Will work through the list to try to figure it out.

 

[NoGuru]

How did the extruder assembly go? Maybe take it apart and reassemble it to see if it helps.

 

[bythorsthunder]

I just finished building my LDO 350 2.4. I need a few beers after that... It was A LOT more work than building my MK3. My first print (ABS) had poor adhesion to the LDO bed. (I didn't apply anything but just cleaned it well with alcohol). For 2nd print I used Kapton tape with ABS juice on top of that. So far the adhesion seems strong. Can ABS be printed reliably on the LDO textured bed without some type of adhesive applied to it?

The print quality from both prints on the left side is poor compared to the right side. It's worse in 0.2 than 0.1. First print was at 0.1 and 2nd 0.2 layer height, AMZ3D ABS, 240 nozzle, 110 bed & chamber at 57. There are unsupported overhangs on the back from where ridges are being created along the path of the nozzle way past the end of the overhang. Guessing maybe a few variables at work here beyond my pay grade. Prior to the Voron I basically just printed in PETG or PLA. Any suggestions beyond the Initial LDO setup tips to do? I just looked at the secondary tuning section and have not yet done the audio test for belt tensioning. Overall the ABS quality to me appears fair at best.

The linked tuning guide is definitely going to help you. Most of the issues I see there should be fixed by tuning flow and upping your cooling.

 

[bythorsthunder]

Also take a look at the bed adhesion and first layer tuning sections in the guide. You shouldn't need any kapton tape or abs slurry for good adhesion with that bed. Clean the bed with dish soap and water too. That works way better than alcohol.

 

[Alan]

Adhesion issues were from poor Z offset consistency. I'd dial it in and on the next print have to change it +/- a lot. I started doing live Z offset for every print and now ABS sticks well. (I am also using AquaNet hairspray on the plate which is easy to do and working quite well.)

Can someone tell me what Unclicky sensor probe this is on this video? I want to dump the inductive sensor ASAP as it is pretty much guaranteed that if I don't manually tune Z while printing the brim the first layer is going to fail.

I didn't notice I had the Stealthburner upgrade kit in my LDO kit until I already built the Afterburner. I'll be swapping out the Afterburner along with the Z probe.

 

[NoGuru]

I would suggest going TAP instead of Klicky, Uncklicky, or Euclicd. My first layers have never been so good until I installed TAP.

 

[Alan]

I have not had time to dial in the printer, and it's larger than what I need for personal use. It was originally purchased for a business use project, but before it could be put into service, the project was scrapped. Now I am moving and downsizing, so I think I will sell it. Any suggestions on what's the best place to list it for sale and what I should list it for? LDO 350 2.4

 

[NoGuru]

I would use Facebook market place to keep it local. Since it has issues, maybe $600-$800

 

[5twenty]

I have not had time to dial in the printer, and it's larger than what I need for personal use. It was originally purchased for a business use project, but before it could be put into service, the project was scrapped. Now I am moving and downsizing, so I think I will sell it. Any suggestions on what's the best place to list it for sale and what I should list it for? LDO 350 2.4

Where are you located?

 

[Alan]

@5twenty - I'm in Orange County, CA.
@NoGuru - Ouch! The LDO kit alone cost over $1500. But then again, it's just collecting dust at this point. I also have a 50w fiber laser engraver, 2 Prusa printers, and a Bambu P1S sitting around not in use that I probably will list at the same time to restore space in my house. My wife will be happy. Also have a desktop EDM I have not had time to finish building that I don't really need any longer but EDM machines are cool, and it doesn't take up much space, so I will hold onto that for hobby use.

 

[5twenty]

@5twenty - I'm in Orange County, CA.

Ah, okay...if you were closer I could try to help out before offering to take it off your hands...but I'm on the East Coast which makes it a bit hard to do.

Not sure about your situation as I'm a bit more obsessive, but if it were me (aside from buying even MORE printers, which I definitely would) I'd keep a Prusa or the Bambu to at least have something functional (the P1S most likely as it is ready to print ABS - most used for me!).

You should be able to recoup MOST of what you put in, but NoGuru is correct - there are too many printers that are ready to go being sold now, only masochists like us buy kits like this - ask me why I have 30+ printers....

 

[Alan]

Thank you @5twenty for the offer to help! After no longer having the need to use the Voron for the work project, getting it dialed in went on the back burner with too many other things taking up my time. 30+? LOL - I have built a few printers - building is a love-hate thing. It's fun at first, but it takes me soooooo long as I get obsessed with using calipers and squares to make every facet connection perfect. So it starts to get old after a few days of building. One of my first printers was a Prusa that came pre-assembled. After a few months, the print quality became poor. I noticed all the screws had loosened up, so I ended up fully disassembling it and reassembling it correctly, and it was perfect after that. Since then, I've favored kits.

I still do some printing for my work, so I need to keep something. Now I have an MK2, MK3, P1S, X-1 Carbon, and the LDO V2.4 350mm. I just ordered on Black Friday sale a Bambu H2D w/ laser to basically replace the desktop laser engraver, the P1S, V2.4, and the two Prusa printers. I think the larger H2D will give me about the same output capacity as the printers I'm selling, while at the same time making my wife happy that our new house will not look as much like a print farm. I'm keeping the X-1 Carbon as a backup for the H2D. Also keeping the in progress EDM build with a modified Ender 3 kit parts.