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Issues printing

Bane

New member
Printer Model
2.4r2
Extruder Type
Clockwork 1
Cooling Type
Afterburner
Hi all,

I need help with a printing issue. What would cause the below?

This is Polymaker ASA printing at 245 with 110 bed temp and 80% constant fan. I am really having a hard time figuring out what may be the issue. I have checked belt tension and checked tightness of everything.

I really don't know what to do next. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.


20221210_210947.jpg
 
Hi all,

I need help with a printing issue. What would cause the below?

This is Polymaker ASA printing at 245 with 110 bed temp and 80% constant fan. I am really having a hard time figuring out what may be the issue. I have checked belt tension and checked tightness of everything.

I really don't know what to do next. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.


View attachment 853
Is your fan disabled in the slicer for more than just the first layer? Looks like a cooling issue with the start of the print. Also, do you get a similar issue printing other objects, or is it just this one?
 
I agree with @Neil_I. Most likely you have bad curling up at the beginning of the print and when the toolhead hits the part is can cause layer shifts
 
Is your fan disabled in the slicer for more than just the first layer? Looks like a cooling issue with the start of the print. Also, do you get a similar issue printing other objects, or is it just this one?
In this case it happened to 12 parts (the entire print job) 3 different parts with 4 copies each. Here are my fan settings.
 

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Have you had success?
I've just finished printing a test cube on my V2.4 with Polymaker ASA.
  • 110C was too hot, my prints looked similar to yours.
  • Recommended 95C was too cold (lifting off of the plate).
  • Printing at 105C and I've gotten successful build adhesion with no layer issues (? subjective, I suppose)
  • FAN OFF
Edit:
Not sure why my hotend was set to 235 in this pic. I've bumped it up to 250.

1673240991392.pngIMG_0028.jpeg
 
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ah... I'm still getting lifting on the outer edges of my prints that reach the far sides of my bed. not sure what the problem is here...
Test cube is fine and I'm sure prints that don't take up so much space on the build plate would also be fine, but anything that reaches out too far left or right give me problems.
Update:
Not sure why, but I've flipped the bed upside down and now my adhesion is fine...
I did turn the fan OFF in CURA, rather than set it to 0%. I heard it spinning up in those areas that were lifting.
 
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Have you cleaned your surface with soap and water ? IPA and other alcohol tend to smear greases instead of removing them.

Are you bed mesh leveling before each print ? Have you done a leveling test following Elli's guide ? Maybe you just have leveling issues outside of the center of the bed.

I'm printing ASA on 110C bed with a 260/265C hotend, great adhesion, no curling with no cooling on first layer then 30-40% (stealthburner and 50C chamber temp).
 
Have you cleaned your surface with soap and water ? IPA and other alcohol tend to smear greases instead of removing them.

Are you bed mesh leveling before each print ? Have you done a leveling test following Elli's guide ? Maybe you just have leveling issues outside of the center of the bed.

I'm printing ASA on 110C bed with a 260/265C hotend, great adhesion, no curling with no cooling on first layer then 30-40% (stealthburner and 50C chamber temp).
I don't mean to take this thread over, but I've just finished a print with no cooling and I got a big layer shift at about layer 327 (.2mm) out of 400.
I'll try again with a little cooling.

Oh, and if that question was for me, and not the OP (or the both of us).
  1. I have an adaptive bed mesh in my print start.
  2. I'm not sure if I've done bed leveling as per Ellis' guide, but if he has one, I've probably used it.
  3. I'm wondering the same. I will install my Tap this weekend and see if anything changes.
 
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Print cooling would have nothing to do with a layer shift. That would come from a missed step, overheated drivers or motors.
 
Print cooling would have nothing to do with a layer shift. That would come from a missed step, overheated drivers or motors.
Cooling can cause layer shift if the print is warping up and the hotend hits it during a travel move. Most of the time it detaches the print but if adhesion is fly / it's a big print it can definitely happen.
 
Cooling can cause layer shift if the print is warping up and the hotend hits it during a travel move. Most of the time it detaches the print but if adhesion is fly / it's a big print it can definitely hap
Well yes if we are splitting hairs. Print cooling can be the cause of warping which in turn can have the part and tool head to collide.

@Laserbea4k43 did the part warp?

If I am using filament that likes to warp I will typical set the part cooling to start a few layers later and the time per layer will be increased from say 15sec to 20 or 25 seconds. This will help the layer time to cool slower.
 
@NoGuru Seeing how I'd recently printed a much taller part, (with the enclosure mostly removed, but z motors are outside of the chamber anyway) I'm led to believe it's a cooling issue.
Then again, it does look pretty consistent up until the point where it did shift. It wasn't a little shift either, it looks like all 5 walls have shifted.
You know what... now that remember, those shifted walls even had supports! Maybe it was my slicer! I'm going to have to get superslicer up and running and I'll try again...
 
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