Microcenter Voron Kit(s) Build

[Vorandy]

I'm starting my first Voron 2.4r2 (not first printer or first build), Based on Microcenter's Voron Kits, with several deviations from the standard.

For those of you who don't know Microcenter now sells a series of kits that allegedly end up as a Voron 2.4 R2. They are not all marked for a 350MM build, but the dimensions so far seem to lineup with the spec sheet for that size. The website has these kits but the descriptions are very light on details. I have no idea what's included in the Electronics Kit except that it states an Octopus Pro (which is the board that I wanted anyway).

So far I have:
- Frame Kit ($79.99)
- Build Plate ($99.99)
- Motion Kit ($199.99)
- Fastener Kit ($49.99)
- Cable Kit ($29.99)
- Panels Kit ($99.99)
- 12-Rail CNC Weight Loss Structural Kit ($249.99)
- Raspberry Pi 4B (From my old stock)
- Lots of filament/nozzles/spare parts (free)
- Upgraded 24v/5v power supply (350w) just because I have it

Still need to buy: (may be a few months before I can afford these)
- Electronics Kit Parts Set with Octopus Pro ($349.99)
- Printed Parts (minus the parts included in the kit below)
- Tap kit ($40ish) or Beacon? <-- The electronics kit seems to come with a proximity switch (Omron TL-Q5MB1-F-Z)
- Filament runout sensor(s)
- Extra magnetic build plates
- LDO Nitehawk-SB USB Tool Head ($39.99)
- Hot-End/Cold-End kit (I'm going to need help understanding this) <-- After examining the Microcenter kit, it has most of these parts for the toolhead.
-- Stealthburner with Galileo and LDO Nighthawk-SB, has been suggested.


Upgrades at some later time:
- Nozzle cleaner
- Belt tension tool
- Tophat (or something like it) with filament drier on top of that
- Tap changer or Stealth changer (

)
-- Also, I haven't seen this anywhere, but I plan on putting "parking" sensors on the changing system to make sure if an extruder falls off or does not park correctly, the job is paused.
- Relocated electronics to back of case rather than bottom
- Camera inside enclosure
- Enclosure temp probe
- Tool-less belt tightener/adjustments in aluminum
- Magnetic panel mounts

Issues list (so far):
1. Paying for these as money is pretty tight at the moment.
2. Not sure which hot/cold ends I want need. I would like to be compatible with the Stealth changer or Tap changer.
3. How do I determine which printed parts I need
a. None of the docs I have found have shown what is included with any of the kits, so until I buy them I have no idea what's in them.
b. Even when you do have a kit and docs, it is very confusing which printed parts you need.

Issues Overcome (so far):
1. Picked a color (Red seems to have the most support in metal parts)
2. Which kit to buy / To buy or self-source (did it this way so I can save up and pay for things slowly, I know I will pay more in the long run, but interest payments on the cards would kill me).
3. Which board to use. Determined partly because someone I know has offered to share his knowledge and that is based heavily on this board. Also, partly because it is included with the Microcenter kit.
4. I have a place to build it and all the tools
5. I have printed the instructions

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[RS250RW]

Hello, I too have a Microcenter based Voron 2.4 r2 underway. Their only kit is based off of a 350 build. They do not offer any other sizes as I asked their representative what they carry. That said, lots of stuff could be used for other sizes, but their frame, panels, build plate et. al. are all for the 350. Good luck in you build. I am at assembling the gantry, and working on placing the electronics.

 

[Vorandy]

Hello, I too have a Microcenter based Voron 2.4 r2 underway. Their only kit is based off of a 350 build. They do not offer any other sizes as I asked their representative what they carry. That said, lots of stuff could be used for other sizes, but their frame, panels, build plate et. al. are all for the 350. Good luck in you build. I am at assembling the gantry, and working on placing the electronics.

I've only had one small hardware issue so far, the DIN rails were "exactly the width of the interior of the rails, so no slop to line up the screw holes in the M5 T-Nuts. See below. It was an easy fix, I used a belt grinder to take about 10mm off one end and it gave me enough room to move left to right to align the screws.



What build guide are you using? I've seen that people are using both the standard and the ChaoticLab Voron2.4-CNC-Parts-Kit.

I have not found which parts you don't have to get printed or which parts DO need to be printed, so I ordered a complete set of printed parts in ABS with red accent pieces.

I can't afford the electronics kit, however I did open the box and post pictures or the included parts, I had questions, I assume others do as well. I have 12v motors and hot-end, so the only thing that I think needs 24v is the heated bed, unless that runs at mains power.

 

[Vorandy]

Update 2:

Be very careful with this kit. Because I was bouncing back and forth between manuals I missed a step and had to disassemble and reassemble the z-corners. When i retighted the grub screws I stripped the part. I used a sharp pin punch to peen the hole so it had a little bite but that wouldn't hold very well so I used some super glue to hold the bearing a bit, not sure this will work or not.

I will be posting the parts list included with this kit sometime soon.

 

[Vorandy]

Update 3: Some things I have learned about the Microcenter's Voron Kits...

1. if you buy the CNC aluminum kit, you probably don't need the Fastener kit. It has everything you need if you are using printed parts. I didn't keep everything separate so I can't say for sure you "don't" need it. But you will have a lot of extra screws left over if you buy them both.
2. As mentioned above, the aluminum is very soft, be careful not to overtighten the grub screws.
3. If you don't buy the motor/electronics kit, you will want motors with D-shafts
4. The wires that come with it will barely be safe for 10AMPs, I've upgraded to 18 Gauge silicone wire (200c) Make sure it is all copper and not aluminum clad.
5. I didn't see in the instructions anywhere to ground the frame to earth. I may even ground the gantry. I'm that paranoid.
6. Wire colors, I am loosely following NFPA 79. Be careful not to mix the Main's voltage with DC anything.

I still haven't figured out what I'm going to do about a long term tool-head. I've been gifted a TAP and most of the parts for a Stealthburner. I have a bunch of old V6 hot-ends and heatbreaks, but nothing modern.

Does anyone have a clear explanation of what the differences are?