Modifying Voron 2.4 to CAN-Bus. EBB 36 or SB2209

[hk007]

Hi,
my Voron 2.4 with stealthburner is now working 2 years on "hard wiring" with Klicky Probe.
As I now want to switch to cartographer (which needs CAN-bus), i am thinking about changing the whole toolhead to CAN-Bus.
I have a BTT Manta M8p, so CAN is already on the mainboard.
But reading a lot of mcu-interrupts, I am not sure if CAN is realy the best option?
Then I do not really understand the differences of EBB36, SB2209 CAN, SB2209 (RP2040)
I read a lot of issues with the CB1 on the Manta m8p. So I want to change to a CM4.

any hints, tips, considers to my planning are welcome.

regards hk007

 

[Jduke]

Hi,
my Voron 2.4 with stealthburner is now working 2 years on "hard wiring" with Klicky Probe.
As I now want to switch to cartographer (which needs CAN-bus), i am thinking about changing the whole toolhead to CAN-Bus.
I have a BTT Manta M8p, so CAN is already on the mainboard.
But reading a lot of mcu-interrupts, I am not sure if CAN is realy the best option?
Then I do not really understand the differences of EBB36, SB2209 CAN, SB2209 (RP2040)
I read a lot of issues with the CB1 on the Manta m8p. So I want to change to a CM4.

any hints, tips, considers to my planning are welcome.

regards hk007

I have the 2209 running on an octopus pro, and am currently trying to get the RP2040 (connects usb to the manta board) to connect to a manta 5 with CB1 and can’t get it to communicate

 

[BrianL]

As there is a lack of answers, I thought I would throw some information at you

Boards such as the SB2209 & Nitehawk-SB are designed to fit on the side of the Stealthburner toolhead (see the prefix SB) whereas the EBB36 and all the derivatives like the Mellow SHT36 (CAN), Nitehawk 36 (USB) are for mounting (generally) at the back of other toolheads such as the A4T, Jabberwocky etc.

CAN is sensitive to wiring issues - bad wiring generally means a bad experience with klipper errors. With that said, the CB1 can run a CAN network.

You can mix and match USB boards and CAN boards on a system as I am - I run a Nitehawk 36 via usb on a Jabberwocky toolhead and 3 * EBB36 and 1 * EBB42 via CAN on a 4 lane EMU MMU with no errors. This is on a Pi 4 and LDO Leviathan board but using an external Mellow UTOC-1 CAN to USB module (not the built in one on the board).

I have a different printer with a Manta M8P V1.1 and ditched the CB1 for a CM4 purely for wifi strength and ease of Linux updates (well that's my excuse anyway!). CM4 is significantly stronger in performance.

Carto can run on CAN (off something like an EBB36) or USB off something like a Nitehawk 36. I run Carto off a usb header on the Nitehawk 36.

Overall CAN config (on a Pi4) is a walk in the park when you use the Esoterical CAN guide - considered the gold standard 3d printer CAN documentation - https://canbus.esoterical.online/

As for toolboards, some are using STM chips and some rp2040 chips - I run a rp2040 mcu in a 55c chamber (runs low 80's celcius mcu temps) and have had no issues with it. Hotter then that it is recommended to look at the STM mcu's and CAN as they, evidently, have a higher temperature ceiling before falling over.

A lot of info but hopefully this will help ........

 

[3dCase]

Bit late to the show but here is my short story.
I got my machine about a year and a half ago from my father who lost interest. V2.4 350 totally standard. I understood why he lost interest because the original builder had used the wrong wiring inside the cable chains and I had to dig into the loom every week or two to repair yet another broken cable.
Then I decided to change it to canbus using an btt ebb36 an u2c board, octopus v1.1 with 2209’s and cartographer. Octopus also has the canbus on board but I decided to run separate boards so troubleshooting is somewhat easier.
I have to say it went really smooth and I had no hickups at all during the mod and subsequent restart. It has been running for close to a year now. I do have to say that I decided to get a proper canbus cable that has a goid flex on it. You can use other wiring but I just had so much trouble with silly broken wiring for so long, I just spent the extra money on getting a proper canbus cable.
Machine now simply runs and works. Forgot to mention I also had a klicky, which I hated from day one, and while getting the cartographer I also removed the X and Y limits and now I run sensorless homing.
Not looking back.
Since then I have rebuild the machine with all alluminium cnc parts from chaoticlabs.
Simply brilliant.

 

[Yonkiman]

As BrianL mentioned, the SB2209 really ties you into the Stealthburner ecosystem. I bought three SB2209s for my machines but have since moved onto the Dragon Burner, A4T, etc. So now I have printers with EBB36s and three unused SB2209s. The SB2209 is great as far as it goes, but the EBB36 is just more versatile.

If anyone wants to buy some used (and maybe one unused) SB2209s, drop me a line!