Question My ABS pre-print settings must be wrong (QGL is a pain with stock setup)

[m00dawg]

Printer Model

Voron 2.4 350^3

Extruder Type

Clockwork 2

Cooling Type

Stealthburner

I generally don't have any issues with QGL when printing PLA. But oh my ABS can be a real pain, mostly in the QGL step. I think it must be due to heat creep with the Omron sensor. Yes, I know, I should be using Klicky. I don't want to use TAP because denting the PEI would be a problem given some of my printables depend on having a high quality smooth first layer. I'm pondering the Beacon as an option but that's the sort of upgrade that might be coupled with switching to CAN or something so I only have to mess with the long cable chains/runs once.

Anyways, given my boring stock setup, was curious what folks are doing to improve the QGL process for ABS. I basically do this:

1. Preheat bed to 110 (I usually do this in increments if it's the first print of the day)
2. Wait for chamber to hit 50C
3. Pre-heat nozzle to 245
4. Wait for nozzle to melt out the plastic string, remove (so the Z homing is accurate)
5. QGL
6. Mesh bed level
7. Print starts

I didn't mention the position of the nozzle when I start QGL. I've tried a few positions for the nozzle, including the standard position after homing. I've also tried a cold QGL first before the bed heatup.

I'm wondering if I can/should do QGL with the nozzle cold, but the issue is I don't want that plastic dribble on the bed and don't yet have the nozzle brush mod thing which means I would need to pause after QGL or mesh bed to warm the nozzle, wipe it, then have the print start. I don't mind that but not quite sure how to best do that in a well orchestrated manner. I also don't really need to do that for PLA (but certainly could).

Anyways curious what folks are doing on boring vanilla Voron 2.4's for their print start procedures.

 

[Neil_I]

I generally don't have any issues with QGL when printing PLA. But oh my ABS can be a real pain, mostly in the QGL step. I think it must be due to heat creep with the Omron sensor. Yes, I know, I should be using Klicky. I don't want to use TAP because denting the PEI would be a problem given some of my printables depend on having a high quality smooth first layer. I'm pondering the Beacon as an option but that's the sort of upgrade that might be coupled with switching to CAN or something so I only have to mess with the long cable chains/runs once.

Anyways, given my boring stock setup, was curious what folks are doing to improve the QGL process for ABS. I basically do this:

1. Preheat bed to 110 (I usually do this in increments if it's the first print of the day)
2. Wait for chamber to hit 50C
3. Pre-heat nozzle to 245
4. Wait for nozzle to melt out the plastic string, remove (so the Z homing is accurate)
5. QGL
6. Mesh bed level
7. Print starts

I didn't mention the position of the nozzle when I start QGL. I've tried a few positions for the nozzle, including the standard position after homing. I've also tried a cold QGL first before the bed heatup.

I'm wondering if I can/should do QGL with the nozzle cold, but the issue is I don't want that plastic dribble on the bed and don't yet have the nozzle brush mod thing which means I would need to pause after QGL or mesh bed to warm the nozzle, wipe it, then have the print start. I don't mind that but not quite sure how to best do that in a well orchestrated manner. I also don't really need to do that for PLA (but certainly could).

Anyways curious what folks are doing on boring vanilla Voron 2.4's for their print start procedures

 

[Hotboi Engineering]

What issues are you having with QGL? Is it an inconsistent bed mesh, one quadrant is clearly low/ high... You never mention what print defects are actually occurring that make you suspect an error in the QGL process.

 

[m00dawg]

My prints generally turn out really good so yeah it's just getting the QGL to behave. Once I get passed that, yeah I've had astoundingly few print failures on the 2.4 and the print quality is fantastic (both ABS and PLA). This includes the bottom layer, so when QGL does finally do the thing, I don't usually have an issues.

I suspect it's the heat creep into the Omron probe where I pondered warming the nozzle, letting it dribble out the filament, and then parking the nozzle in the center close to the bed for a few minutes and then doing a QGL. I've tried that a time or two and it didn't seem to make a huge difference though. I don't want to leave it there too long since I have filament baking in the nozzle throughout the QGL and mesh bed process at the moment.

Having said that, I haven't had any issues with QGL today printing ABS so *shrug* some days it's great and some days it's not.

 

[Ingold]

My prints generally turn out really good so yeah it's just getting the QGL to behave. Once I get passed that, yeah I've had astoundingly few print failures on the 2.4 and the print quality is fantastic (both ABS and PLA). This includes the bottom layer, so when QGL does finally do the thing, I don't usually have an issues.

I suspect it's the heat creep into the Omron probe where I pondered warming the nozzle, letting it dribble out the filament, and then parking the nozzle in the center close to the bed for a few minutes and then doing a QGL. I've tried that a time or two and it didn't seem to make a huge difference though. I don't want to leave it there too long since I have filament baking in the nozzle throughout the QGL and mesh bed process at the moment.

Having said that, I haven't had any issues with QGL today printing ABS so *shrug* some days it's great and some days it's not.

I found the same thing using the Omron probe, I set the camber to be 50c, but by the time QGL activated, my chamber was 60, and it failed every time. My Solution was to set the Chamber Temp to 40 before starting the print, by the time QGL & Adaptive Mesh run the chamber is 50. Seems to be stable. Just finished building my Klicky, so going to upgrade soon.

 

[m00dawg]

Oh I hadn't thought about doing the QGL earlier. That's a thought! Just so odd some days it runs like butta but others I have to restart a print like 3 times. I'm actually in the camp that likes touchless homing (I think we're a minority ). The Beacon might be my final solve there but I had thought about using a Super PINDA instead of the Omnrom. I have great results with those on my Prusa's and even their normal PINDAs never gave me any issues. But yeah Klicky was in my future (my 2.4 kit included the parts for it so...). TAP as nice as it is probably isn't a good fit for my needs right now, though the accuracy of that thing is pretty incredible.