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Need Help with Z Precision/Inconsistency Issues on Voron 2.4 R2 Printer


New member
Printer Model
Voron 2.4r2
Extruder Type
Clockwork 2
Cooling Type
Hey everyone,

I recently got a Voron 2.4 R2 printer and have been experiencing some frustrating Z precision issues. Before I delve into the details, I want to clarify that the problem doesn't seem to be related to incorrect gantry leveling. The issue persists consistently across the entire print bed.

To provide some context, I previously used an Ender 3 printer with only a Z endstop. With that machine, I never had to worry about leveling the bed, and I could start a print, leave the room, and return to a successfully completed print later. However, with my Voron 2.4 R2, I'm encountering difficulties with Z precision, and I suspect there might be an underlying issue causing this disparity.

Here's a summary of the problem: The first layer offset varies inconsistently within a range of approximately +-0.05/0.1. This inconsistency leads to three possible scenarios. In one case, the print gets firmly smushed into the build plate, with the extruder almost touching the surface. On the other hand, if the offset is too high, the print lines become separate, and the model fails after a few layers due to poor adhesion. If im lucky, the layer height is spot on. This varies in between each print, even if I change nothing at all.

I've tried adjusting the Z offset and have managed to find a middle ground that at least reduces the issue somewhat. However, I still need to manually adjust the Z height during the print to achieve satisfactory results which do not fail and come of the build plate.

I would greatly appreciate any advice or guidance from those who have experience with the Voron 2.4 R2 printer or other similar printers. Have any of you encountered similar problems? If so, how did you troubleshoot and resolve the issue? I'm open to any tips or suggestions that could help me overcome this challenge.

Thank you all in advance for your assistance and valuable insights.

Best regards,

What method are you using to probe?

For me I skipped the stock probe and went straight to Euclid, then Kicky, unklicky, and then TAP. For the klicky style probes then were okay but after a while they became loose and not really that consistent. TAP was very consistent and accurate but heavy and slow. I now have Beacon installed and its very consistent and fast. By the time I hit print I am printing in 5 minutes if I do not do a heat soak.
Do you have any probing, QGL or bed probing in your start Gcode?
I have quad gantry leveling followed by a home on z endstop.

also have big issues with warping with asa.
im using the textured side.100°c bed, print at 260 (worked my way up as I had layer splitting) chamber goes up over time up to 50°c.
Im concerned I can make nevermore due to the warp.

Brim works on smaller/thinner parts. I can usually see the brim becomming white and saving the print when corners want to curl up.
I am also new to Voron. Your description is very similar to what I also experienced. I agree with other posters advice. In my case, all the following helped alot, so finally now I can start print and leave.
- heat soaking is essential. I use 4x 5015 fans under the build bed
- Ti backer rods for x y gantry
- G32 code: ‘home-QGL-home’ in the print start gcode
- purge and brush scrub before and after printing
- Voron TAP
I have been trying to resolve the same issue; here is what I have done:
  • Nozzle Cleaner installed, setup macros to brush the nozzle after the extruder reaches its temperature and before it performs any calibration actions.
  • Installed Euclid Probe and configured
  • Configured AutoZ
  • Configured Adaptive Mesh
  • Used Painters tape under the plate to "level" out the bed according to the mesh
  • Installed Two 5015 Fans + a nevermore; Chamber gets to 65c now.
These have greatly improved the situation, but I still find some weird behaviour. If the print is small, it squishes the bed, but as the print gets larger, the nozzle is further away from the bed and nearly sticks.

TBH, I think the most significant change is the painter's tape; all these are software changes that have done little to align the gantry to the bed.

Hope that helps.
My 350 2.4 is new to me, as is QGL and TAP. I was having similar frustrating issues until the last few days. I can now start a print and walk away and not be too concerned about a mishap. I will definitely still stick around for the longer and more critical prints. I did update my TAP to the version with four magnets.
Check and make sure your hot end is tight and not moving around. You should only have some deflection from the plastic pieces. At one point one of the linear rail bolts for my TAP came loose. The symptoms I had reminded me of a warped plate and no bed mesh.

My process:
I heat soak @ 175/110 for 8-10 minutes. I do run bed fans, but only after the bed comes up to temp. During heat soak the chamber will get up to 45-50C. My start sequence is all @ 175/110 - home all, clean nozzle, QGL, clean nozzle, home Z, heat all to printing temp, clean nozzle, print. -if you are not running bed fans, know that they are very easy to install and setup. The prints for them are quick and easy as well.

If your Z-offset, bed temp, and chamber temps are all OK and you still have ASA corners lifting:
Using a new Scotch-Brite or similar, scrub your bed plate with hot water and dawn dish soap! SCRUB it! Don't be bashful.
After scrubbing, lightly rinse the plate (it is ok to leave some suds) and wipe it with clean paper towels (it doesn't need to be completely dry). Do not touch the printing surface when placing the bed back in the printer. Let it heat for a few minutes and print away. Do this even if you just pulled the plastic off of your fancy new bed plate.
Any time your Z-offset is OK but corners are coming up, scrub the bed plate again!
It is hard to believe how much difference this makes, even if you clean the plate with alcohol after every print.
BTW - I grabbed a new scrubby sponge and keep it in a baggie with my printer stuff so that I know that I always have one that is not contaminated for the next cleaning .

i kinda have the same problem my problem is just only on the left side of the bed all the other looks fine