What's new
VORON Design

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members!

Solved Out of range when homing

Ho-whizzle

Well-known member
Hello,

I am getting so close, the X and Y axis seems to be homing fine but the Z keeps saying out of range 10.000 10.000 10.000 [0.000]. Searched the code in the printer config file but found nothign containing -10.000 figures. Please help.
 

Attachments

  • klippy.log
    696.6 KB · Views: 2
  • Screenshot 2024-01-24 091712.png
    Screenshot 2024-01-24 091712.png
    167.6 KB · Views: 11
Run though the setup again, I think you missed somthing.

Z Offset Adjustment​

If you did not run PID tuning, set your extruder to 245C and heated bed to 100C and let the printer heat up for at least 15 minutes.

Initial / Simple Process​

Preparation

  • V1/Trident: Run a G28, and then a Z_TILT_ADJUST, and then another G28.
  • V2: Run a G28, and then a QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL, and then another G28.
  • All others: Run a G28.
  • Move the nozzle to the center of the bed if it is not already.
  • Clear any stored bed meshes with BED_MESH_CLEAR
Run Z_ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE (V0, Trident, V2) or PROBE_CALIBRATE (Switchwire)

Slowly move the nozzle toward the bed by using TESTZ Z=-1 until the nozzle is relatively close to the bed, and then stepping down with TESTZ Z=-0.1 until the nozzle touches a piece of paper on top of the build plate. If you go too far down, you can move the nozzle back up with: TESTZ Z=0.1. Once you are satisfied with the nozzle height, run ACCEPT and then SAVE_CONFIG.

Important: Klipper assumes that this process is being done cold. If being performed hot, do an additional TESTZ Z=-0.1 before accepting.

If an “out of bounds” error occurs, send Z_ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE, ACCEPT, and then SAVE_CONFIG. This will redefine the 0 bed height so you will be able to get closer.

V2: If you get this error it likely means that the shaft for your Z Endstop is too long and may catch on the print head during a print. It is best to cut the shaft or raise the bed (with a washer, for instance) so that it is within 1mm of the build surface.
 
thank you all. I have fixed the issue with the out of range but I am the CNC tap is no registering when homing the Z end stop. The adventure continues.
 
Are you seeing the LEDs on the Tap board change from red to blue (or is it the microswitch variant)? What controller board do you have, and what pin is the probe signal connected to?
 
No led lights fromthe CNC tap, I have connected the cable to Z probe port of the stealthburner board that came with the LDO kit,
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2024-01-25 172853.png
    Screenshot 2024-01-25 172853.png
    397.2 KB · Views: 10
Exactly which tap pcb do you have? Most of them now have the 2 color led, so seeing nothing at all strongly suggests a wiring issue
 
Exactly which tap pcb do you have? Most of them now have the 2 color led, so seeing nothing at all strongly suggests a wiring issue
Chaotic Lab CNC tap V2 which uses an Omron EE-SX4320. It seems like a simple device with a small cable coming out of it. I do think there is an issue with either the PCB or the cable.
 
Looking at the product shots on Chaotic Lab it appears they have their own PCB and I don't see and obvious LED like the Voron Tap one has. In any case, I would start with looking at wiring; it may be that the signal and ground got flipped. Also, if you are using an Octopus controller, you have to put the signal to an endstop port since their probe port is borked and doesn't work right; see the Voron docs for proper wiring of that.
 
The chaotic labs board definitely DOES imitate the voron board's 2 color led. So there definitely should be a light. I would start by just confirming basics of the wiring: gnd is connected to gnd, etc.
 
That's good. THen yes, there should be a light on when you power up the printer. Assuming Chaotic Labs imitates the colors, it should be read at rest and switch to blue when triggered. This is just the sensor triggering--nothing to do with Klipper.
 
Top