Really just curious more than anything, what nozzle sizes to folks like to use on their 2.4's?

[m00dawg]

Just idly curious more than anything - what size nozzles do folks like to use on their 2.4's?

I'm converting most of my printers (including my 2.4) back from a .6 to a .4mm. I'm keeping one of my printers (just a Prusa MK3) at .6 for continuing to test Bondtech's fancy Bimetal CHT for printing carbon fiber infused PETG (so far it's really good but not a wild fan of the patent encumbered nature of it though it does what it says on the tin so far). But thinking of converting everything else, including my 350mm V2 back to .4mm by default and, at least on the 2.4, will swap a nozzle if I really need to making something tall. The larger build area for me is for being able to print long parts, not necessarily big or tall ones.

I switched to .6mm originally when PrusaSlicer added Arachne but have found, while it does improve things, physics is physics and in terms of overall part prettiness, I just like .4mm a lot more.

To gain some of the speed back, since I have my 2.4 dialed back a bit speed wise, I might try to see how much faster I can go. I'm pretty sure I can go faster than I currently am.

 

[tillin9]

I pretty much run 0.4 on everything - v2-1428 (350mm) and my new v2 (250mm) . I have 0.6 and 0.25 Revos and barely use them. I also have Dragons I could swap in and use v6 nozzles. I use 0.6 if I'm printing something big that needs to be strong, like a container for organizing parts. I use 0.25 because I don't have a resin printer and want to make fine details.

I never got the whole with Arachne 0.6 is the same as 0.4 nonsense Tom was peddling - that video showed up in my feed just the other day, lol. Don't take it the wrong way Arachne is good and a step forward - it removes some slicer artifacts (although is not perfect) and brings small improvements in speed and strength - but as you said, physics is physics.

I'd prefer to think 0.4 won out as the standard because people wanted the best quality they could get and anything smaller is too prone to clogging. Occasionally 0.4 will jam too, but the probability goes up dramatically the smaller you get.

Note - I do like the iSANGHU carbon fiber ABS I found. It's $30 so only a tad more than quality ABS, basically prints with the same settings, is roughly the same strength, but is considerably stiffer and has better layer adhesion. I have a Revo ObXidian I use for that, works great. 0.4mm.

 

[NoGuru]

On my 2.4 350mm I keep a .6 for a couple reasons. The 350 is the largest printer I have so it helps a little with the size, and .6 is less prone to clogging when I run GF or CF filaments.
The rest of my printers have .4 nozzles but are around 250mm or less.

 

[m00dawg]

I never got the whole with Arachne 0.6 is the same as 0.4 nonsense Tom was peddling - that video showed up in my feed just the other day, lol. Don't take it the wrong way Arachne is good and a step forward - it removes some slicer artifacts (although is not perfect) and brings small improvements in speed and strength - but as you said, physics is physics.

Yeah, I drank the Tom Kool-Aid on that one - he was the reason I was convinced to try it out. I can't throw him completely under the bus on that one as it did lower my print times quite a bit (on my slower Prusa MK3s anyway) but the quality loss was noteworthy, particularly on engraved text on top layers. I could improve that with better retraction I think but easier just to go back to a .4 where the quality is just immediately right where I want it. In hindsight I should've done more testing before upgrading all my printers.

I won't hold Tom's feet to the fire on that one too much but for me the .6mm, other than the speed improvements, haven't been great. The exception is PETG-CF - that stuff is quite nice and seems .6mm is the recommended min there (which is why I'm keeping that printer on .6 where I don't print parts that tend to run into the downsides as much).

The bigger issue I've been having with Tom lately is he seems to be anti-open-source to the point I'm wondering if a certain Labs company is just paying him under the table. That's wild hearsay but his opinions were abrupt and he seems to be digging he heels into the idea that open source is somehow the enemy and...patents are the answer? I do not agree, and the most amazing, but patent encumbered, printer isn't going to change my mind there and seems to run afront to a lot of what the 3D printing community and hobby are about?

But I digress! Thanks for the info folks!

 

[Durahl]

/takes a deep breath...

For me it's either 0.40 or 1.00 with the latter mostly being reserved for Vase Mode like a fancy small watering can I made for watering the occasional Orchid my mother keeps dropping off at my place and for which a regular sized one is way too big but where a glass of water without a spout usually ends up with the water going everywhere except for the place I want it to go.

Gave 0.60 a try when Tom gave it praise for being able to get it to work like a 0.40 one but couldn't recreate that experience - At least not with what I usually print and the Tolerances I like to work with. And despite slowly warming up to Arachne I'd still not be giving it the keys to my car - Not yet at least.

 

[m00dawg]

That was my experience as well with .6. I will admit having switched some of my non-Vorons back to .4 it did add more print time than I remember But the quality for the types of parts I print is just so much better so I think it's worth the trade-off.

 

[5twenty]

Until I get everything dialed in, and it seems like there is always something to keep tuning, I'm on .4 nozzles. I do have a wide array of different sizes, but don't want to introduce another variable to adjust everything around.