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Replacement for the CW2 on v2.4 wanted.


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Unfortunately, this thing is completely unreliable. The first one last a good year or better, then started printing artifacts in every print that got worse and worse until I had to replace. I replaced it with new Bmg internals, new stepper, and it printed flawlessly. Here we are now less than 3 months since replacing it, and it's doing it again.

One picture from a print of the same brand new spool in dryer enclosed bin, I swapped the filament for another color, which printed the same excellent quality, then swapped back over to black, and the artifacts started creeping in over 24 hours. Any recommendations for a bullet proof extruder system using the revo and not changing anything else from the stock setup would be appreciated. Looking for a direct replacement.


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You can try Galileo 2, made by Jared, a member of VORON team https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2 the G2E is direct drop-in for Clockwork 2.
There may also be some other attempts to cram Orbiter or such into CW2 body for Stealthburner, but honestly I don't have much knowledge on what's out there in this regard.

Alternatively you can use different toolhead if you find extruder that you like. Take a look at Dragonburner https://github.com/chirpy2605/voron/tree/main/V0/Dragon_Burner with alternative mounts https://github.com/chirpy2605/voron/tree/main/general/Large_Voron_Mounts
Or optionally Xol toolhead https://github.com/Armchair-Engineering/Xol-Toolhead/tree/main
Both will allow you to use any other standalone extruder like Orbiters, Galileo 2 Standalone, Sherpa Mini, Sharkfin... there are options.
Is there a preferred standalone extruder for the Voron V2.4? I use the hartK two part board etc and don't want to replace out any of the SB.
That's the new printed extruder yeah? I want something more robust, milled aluminum or something
Yes, it's printed.
In that case you will have to look into different toolhead instead of Stealthburner, and buy CNC VZ Hextrudort or Sherpa Mini or other supported extruders.
Remember, aluminium is not always the best choice. For example when mechanism relies on properties of plastics. Aluminium latches on CW1 and CW2 make closing extruder impossible for example, because metal does not give in.
I for one had excellent results with using the Bondtech LGX Lite with the only issue being me no longer being able to use a 2-Piece Tool Head PCB for convenient Tool Head disassembly.
But then again... I rarely ever have to disassemble the Tool Head so it kinda worked out for me... 🤔🤨
Galileo 2 Extruder is drop-in replacement for CW2 and works with toolhead PCBs.
Do you have any tips on how to get the fit right? I'm building a Trident and started right off with using G2 as that's what I use in my 2.4 (which great results I might add). The LDO kit includes the two piece Hartk-like toolhead PCBs, though the position of the female connectors for the fan board is too far inward to connect to the board that mounts to the G2 itself. I have it screwed in place so was thinking I might back the screws out or just try removing them entirely to see if that will allow me to adjust it enough to have the two mate together. Secondarily the motor also sits really close to the motor pin header making for a tight fit, but I think it clears it just enough (wires will be touching the rear of the motor though).

I don't seem to have these issues on my 2.4 but the toolhead PCBs are slightly different (still LDO). Only issue there is I couldn't get the door on so I just ended up removing it.

The performance of the G2 on my V2.4 is notable though. I had good print quality on CW2 but the difference in jumping up to the G2 was noticeable. And it's easier to work on.
.... Any recommendations for a bullet proof extruder system using the revo and not changing anything else from the stock setup would be appreciated. Looking for a direct replacement.
There are CNC aluminum parts available for CW2. I see you can buy just the latches made in metal for about $20 or the whole thing for $70.