Stealthburner Neopixle LEDs not working with Octopus V1.1

[Coyote]

Trying to finish up my Voron 2.4 350mm build. I have completed some of the 'Initial Startup' through QGL with only minor fixable issues. I also installed Tap and it is working great. But the Stealthburner LEDs are not working. I'm using a 1-piece Stealthburner PCB and a Octopus V1.1 control board. I have the LEDs plugged into the PCB LED JST receptacle. I have the LED data line running from the PCB to PB0 pin on the Octo board and I set 'pin' to PB0 (pin: PB0) in the stealthburner_leds.cfg file. But the LEDs are not on. I tried adding a 100 Ohm resister to the data line as outlined by the "Stealthburner Neopixel Guide" but that did not work. I also tried using PB6 instead of PB0 on the Octo board but still a nogo. Before I start taking the toolhead apart to check continuity of the LEDs I thought I ask y'all for suggestions. I have tried to Google the problem but found nothing useful. Any suggestions?

thanks

 

[NoGuru]

You are plugged into the RGB header on the Octopus?

I would try right from the octopus first, if that works connect it to the SB PCB. I don't think there is much else. Did you include the Neopixel file in the config?

 

[Coyote]

You are plugged into the RGB header on the Octopus?

I would try right from the octopus first, if that works connect it to the SB PCB. I don't think there is much else. Did you include the Neopixel file in the config?

Yes I included the stealthburner_leds.cfg ( [include stealthburner_leds.cfg] ) at the beginning of the printer.cfg file. Currently just data line is plugged into the octopus. With the printer powered on my multimeter shows 5V DC on the SB PCD LED socket that the LEDs are plugged into...I have not tried plugging directly to the octopus, but I'll give that a shot...if that does not work I guess I disassemble the toolhead to check all the LED leads...I was just trying to avoid taking the toolhead apart...guess I should have installed a 2-piece SB PCB...I may yet

 

[NoGuru]

Yep, the two piece is fantastic if you like to tinker and make changes. I think I pull the face off mine every few days for something. I have two of them as well as different hontends so I change just swap them on the fly.
If you have any other LEDS laying around you could make a little harness to plug into the Octopus to make sure it's sending signal out the RGB header

 

[Coyote]

You are plugged into the RGB header on the Octopus?

I would try right from the octopus first, if that works connect it to the SB PCB. I don't think there is much else. Did you include the Neopixel file in the config?

Well, if I connect the LEDs to the octopus directly (5V, GRN and Data) the LEDs work and I can control them with the Dashboard Macros. Connecting Data to both PB0 and PB6 works. But, if I connect the LEDs (5V and GRN) back to the SB PCB they don't work...not sure why...with the printer powered my multimeter reads 5V at the PCB LED socket so power is getting to the LEDs through the PCB...I'm scratching my head...I would hate to have to run the LED leads to the Octopus...sort defeats the purpose of the PCB....

 

[NoGuru]

So it sounds like signal. Is this a CAN board or just a PCB for quick connections?
Can board will need to identify what pin the signal comes in on.

Something seems strange but its hard to imagine without seeing it.

 

[Coyote]

So it sounds like signal. Is this a CAN board or just a PCB for quick connections?
Can board will need to identify what pin the signal comes in on.

Something seems strange but its hard to imagine without seeing it.

It's a 1-piece Hark SB PCB, not CAN...yes it does seem like signal line, but it is hard for me to probe the signal lead while PCB is attached to toolhead. Neither my fingers not instruments or small enough. I guess I'll remove PCB from toolhead and try to jerry-rig something together to test using my bench power supply...I have always said that things will work once you have suffered enough so I guess I haven't reached that point yet...

 

[Coyote]

Well I fixed the problem but didn't solve it...I installed a 2-piece Hartk SB PCB that I just got in today...The LEDs work fine with the 2-piece PCB...not sure yet why they did not work with the one piece PCB...

 

[NoGuru]

Well I fixed the problem but didn't solve it...I installed a 2-piece Hartk SB PCB that I just got in today...The LEDs work fine with the 2-piece PCB...not sure yet why they did not work with the one piece PCB...

Tracer on the PCB could be broken. Glad you got the 2 piece, I like them better.

 

[Areasdwerfd]

I have the same problem right now, I ordered a new PCB and I still have the same problem, I get a good voltage from the wire connectors

 

[djudice3D]

I just finished configuring a R2.4 LDO kit and started tuning/testing. I have the same Neopixel issue discussed here. The LDO kit comes with a modified Hartk PCB. All other functions appear to be working properly. I plan to debug with a direct wire connection as suggested here. If the issue is a PCB trace, a jumper between the connectors might be a solution over replacing the PCB.

 

[dmcentire]

I'm in the same boat here -- trying to upgrade my 2.4 with SB and the neopixel stuff. I am using the LDO breakout boards on the printer side and the Hartk PCB board on the toolhead side. Unfortunately I noticed there are no RGB signals that go through the 20 pin tether cable, so I am hijacking the "X-endstop" pins for RGB + 5V. I haven't finished things but I wanted to make sure that the RGB doesn't automagically get to the other end if you're using the LDO cabling since it seems to be missing from the header.

But again, I am not using the X endstop pins so that should suffice.

 

[claudermilk]

The hartk toolhead board has a 14-pin and 2-pin header. The Neopixel data line is on the 2-pin header and you will have to run that wire separately from the pre-made LDO harness. Same goes for the LDO breakout board--the Neopixel is not on that. My Trident is set up with this: hartk 2-piece -> LDO breakout -> Octopus. The Neopixel dataline is a separate wire run in parallel with the main harness. It works just fine that way; yes, that's an additional wire, but it's how things are arranged.