Solved Strange second layer problem

[Krzysztof]

Picked up a built and used Voron 2.4 over the weekend. First one for me. Upto this point I have used creality and flashforge printers.

Okay about the problem. First layer goes on okay other then being a little to high, second layer digs into the first layer and rips it off the build plate.
I am thinking their might be some teeth missing on a belt or one of the Z motors is messing up. Haven't dug into it yet. Wanted to see anyone has ever seen something like this before.
And maybe get ideas on where to start.

 

[Sanity Agathion]

Hi, first of all, your first layer is way too high, print does not stick to the surface. Squish it properly for it to flow into the texture. Try starting from there

Also, some more data about the printer, material and you would really help: what build, what filament you use, whether you print enclosed or not, and what probe do you use. Do you use physical or virtual Z endstop? This will be important for determining how to properly save it. Do you have any prior experience with DIY printers and Klipper?

Buying completed project printer is like buying somebody else's project car. You buy all the problems and shortcomings previous owner had. If you are not familiar with your VORON you built yourself, and especially Klipper firmware, it may be more challenging.

 

[claudermilk]

What @Sanity Agathion said. That first layer is way too high. That's why the second layer is digging in. I'm amazed the first layer isn't getting dragged around by the nozzle and begin a blob monster.

 

[Krzysztof]

Printing PLA with the doors open. 215 hotend and 60 on bed. Voron v2. It has the Pheatus Dragon hot end BMG gears for the extruder but it has the afterburner one piece front fan cover. Have been printing for two years. Mostly on bed slingers by Creality. Also hat Makerbot replicator and Flashforge creator pro. Have been running klipper on most of the printers for the past year. Most have been modified. I know that I inherited someone’s problems when buying this printer but it was the right price. And I like fixing things. And it has the inductive probe and the switch that the nozzle touches.

 

[monkeyPan]

If this was originally a self sourced printer with 0.9 degree stepper motors and you have re-flashed the sd card with a new klipper install after getting it then you might have incorrect rotation distance for the z motors in the printer.cfg config file.

One way to check this is to home the printer and then raise the gantry from the mainsail/fluid UI and double check that the gantry actually moves by the specified amount.

If you have 0.9 degree steppers but your printer.cfg is configured for 1.8 degree steppers your gantry will only move by half as much as specified. This would give you 0.1mm layer heights instead of 0.2 causing the nozzle to drag on the previous layer.

This is more of a long shot though, so check the initial layer offset issue mentioned above first.

Here is more info about rotation distance in the klipper documentation. Specifically I think you would want to configure the ´full_steps_per_rotation´ setting.

Rotation distance - Klipper documentation

www.klipper3d.org

 

[WhiteWulfe]

I'm amazed that first layer stayed on as long as it did given just how high it is... There shouldn't be anywhere near those kinds of gaps as the filament is being laid down either.

Question: You mention it has a dragon hotend. Is it standard flow, or high flow? You can tell by looking at the heatsink - high flow has a ceramic spacer in order to increase the size of the melt zone. If you have a high flow and are planning on printing mainly in PLA (or even just regularly), you are going to want to change that Afterburner toolhead to the Stealthburner as soon as possible. Stealthburner has significantly better part cooling, but just as important is that it has better directed airflow at the heatsink.

For a guide on why so many are commenting about first layer being too high, as well as squish, see here: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html

 

[Krzysztof]

Thanks for all the ideas to try. As soon as I get home I will try another print lower. I guess what I am confused about is that if the first layer is so low how am I hitting it on the second layer? I believe this was a Formbot kit build.

 

[Krzysztof]

This is the printer config file that I got with the printer. If anyone see major flaws or things that should be done different please let me know.

 

[Krzysztof]

Thank you everyone for the help. Its working as it should. Two things where wrong. I was adjusting the Z_ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE incorrectly. That's my bad after reading though the documentation on the Voron site I found my mistake. That mistake was magnified visually because the print head carriage was loose so it was moving as it was printing. I thought the mgn rails where loose, so I tool it all apart and noticed it was loose. Again thank you all for the great help.

 

[WhiteWulfe]

Glad to hear it's working a lot better now!