Umbilical without can?

[Cena]

Printer Model

Voron 2.4r2 (LDO kit)

Extruder Type

Clockwork 2

Cooling Type

Stealthburner

Hi all - newbie building their first Voron 2.4 (or any) printer.

So I’m getting way ahead of myself here, but I’m wondering about the same questions asked in this thread , namely:

Can someone suggest a file (or files) for:
1) Attaching the umbilical to the head
2) Attaching the umbilical to the rear gantry without the use of specialty cables
3) moving x/y endstops

So basically, getting rid of drag chains as well.

Stipulation: I have a Nitehawk on order and don’t think I want to do the whole canbus thing.

Secondly, er, how do you make an umbilical? Is it just a Chainflex with appropriate connectors?

Thirdly, am I horribly misunderstanding something in even asking this?

Thanks for humoring me!

 

[NoGuru]

Perfectly valid question. How does one do an Umbilical?

Lets look at it this way, we have to get at least 4 wires to the toolhead. This is much easier then the 26 or whatever the full loom is.

1. We can still use chains, just have fewer cables. Maybe smaller chains?
2. Bambu labs style chain, which works very well since it is always in the same path.
3. Umbilical with some structure like using a semi ridged wire to help it stay shaped like a rainbow.
4. Semi flimsy, like coming through the back air filter area and combine the PTFE tube with it. This is how mine is setup and it stays out the way and does not get snagged.

Connecting the cable.
You could just connect it and call it a day but since the toolhead moves a lot you want some strain relief on the cable. There are a few options but there are two I like, PG12 which has an orifice large enough to pass my Beacon connector and the CAN or USB connector though it or the.....I am drawing a blank but another connecter that has a good solid clip Onkio or something like that.
I will have to go back in my Amazon history to see what it is called but that is a good connector but you have to cut end connector off, solder onto the connector to make it all work.

Probably the best way to see different setups is to go on Printables and search Umbilical, CANbus, PG7, PG12 those are sizes, PG7 is pretty small.

Pick out the one that makes sense to you and start to consider if the entire setup will work. It's hard to do if the machine is not built yet

I can post pics tonight if you need some to see a setup. Mine is not the greatest right now because I have made a lot of changes lately but maybe it can give you ideas.

 

[Dave32]

The V2.4 is tough because of the huge range of motion (X/Y/Z) the umbilical has to reach... without the "loop" getting in the way or snagging at the closest point or when the toolhead is near the top.. It also has to deal with the filament entry angle into the top of the toolhead - something the V0 solves with the extra clearance provided by the top hat.

In my thread about the Jetpack extruder, one of the photos posted shows what looks to be a sleeved ribbon cable instead of cables in a chain. If so, that should be significantly lighter and smoother. I wonder if something like that could be adopted for the 4-wire system (USB or CAN)?

Jetpack Extruder - Has anyone run one?

Of everything Voron-related, the Jetpack extruder seems to be one of the great mysteries. It's listed prominently on the website, in the title of this forum section, the build guide documentation was released for it, etc... Yet a Google Image Search can't produce even a single photo of one...

forum.vorondesign.com

 

[NoGuru]

One thing I keep considering for my Umbilical is run everything from the top center, but if you have a tall print what happens to the loop?
Unless you have a retractation system I think that might always be a small issue but on mine, the loop never gets in the way.