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Question Voron stealthburner click while extruding
- Thread starter XGeri0
- Start date
I see few problems:
1. Noctua fan. They are silent, but at the expense of severe airflow restrictions. I recommend changing it to some other fan, there are few recommended brands we use.
2. Put silicone sock on. When you turn on part cooling, it will cool the block and thermistor, heater cartridge won't keep up, resulting in thermal runaway errors.
3. You are probably testing extrusion by using Extrude button from Mainsail or Fluidd interface. Default speed for that is 10 mm/s - which equals to volumetric flow of around 24 mm3/s. That's too much even for Dragon HF hotend, no way your what looks to be v6 can melt that much plastic. V6's performance is maybe half that. Lower it to 1 mm3/s.
1. Noctua fan. They are silent, but at the expense of severe airflow restrictions. I recommend changing it to some other fan, there are few recommended brands we use.
2. Put silicone sock on. When you turn on part cooling, it will cool the block and thermistor, heater cartridge won't keep up, resulting in thermal runaway errors.
3. You are probably testing extrusion by using Extrude button from Mainsail or Fluidd interface. Default speed for that is 10 mm/s - which equals to volumetric flow of around 24 mm3/s. That's too much even for Dragon HF hotend, no way your what looks to be v6 can melt that much plastic. V6's performance is maybe half that. Lower it to 1 mm3/s.
I understand, if I reduce the speed of the extruder, it's fine, so I started a test print, but something was disgusting and the filament broke at the extruder, so I stopped. I don't know what I should set in my prusaslice or my config file. Do you have any ideas? This is an ender 3 v2 on which I just put the voron stealthburner and the mainsail klipper system.
I would be very grateful if you could help me with what I should do
What extruder are you using? Clockwork 1 or 2?
Make sure the extruder is properly mechanically assembled, hotend is not clogged, and that you have the short PTFE tube between extruder and hotend. If you have Clockwork 2, check these videos on how to properly set gear meshing, anti-squish and idler tension. https://www.youtube.com/@dr.davesworkshop3585/videos
Make sure the extruder is properly mechanically assembled, hotend is not clogged, and that you have the short PTFE tube between extruder and hotend. If you have Clockwork 2, check these videos on how to properly set gear meshing, anti-squish and idler tension. https://www.youtube.com/@dr.davesworkshop3585/videos
Okay. I'll check these out
What actually is the clicking noise? Is it the extruder teeth losing grip on the filament? The drive wheel gear skipping steps, or the extruder motor skipping steps?
I've also been getting this sound when printing flexibles with very high PA values, so obviously very high acceleration on the extruder, but very low volumetric flow.
I've also been getting this sound when printing flexibles with very high PA values, so obviously very high acceleration on the extruder, but very low volumetric flow.
I was able to do a bunch on investigation for what my issues might have been.
A great debug step was to take a video of the back of the stealthburner while extruding and it was skipping. This showed the motor itself skipping steps, which meant it wasn't down to gear meshing or anything like that.
Upped the current from 0.5 to 0.7 in klipper and I'm getting much less skipping (almost none). Still need to fish up the datasheet of my stepper somewhere to find out if I can push the current on the extruder motor further, it's not all that hot yet.
A great debug step was to take a video of the back of the stealthburner while extruding and it was skipping. This showed the motor itself skipping steps, which meant it wasn't down to gear meshing or anything like that.
Upped the current from 0.5 to 0.7 in klipper and I'm getting much less skipping (almost none). Still need to fish up the datasheet of my stepper somewhere to find out if I can push the current on the extruder motor further, it's not all that hot yet.
Stronger bigger motors on extruders, like Nema 17, tend to ggrind filament as a failure when they cannot push it further through hotend. Smaller motorsl ike those round Nema 14 pancakes skip steps instead.
Have you tried upgrading the hotend cooling fan to a stronger one and see if it does not help?
Have you tried upgrading the hotend cooling fan to a stronger one and see if it does not help?
Hmm, your point being that having to up the motor current shouldn't be required if there's not something else preventing a good flow. I see your point.
My hotend fan is already a 24V one, included with my Formbot kit, so I think that should be strong enough.
I did a check of how hot the extruder motor was during a long print, and I could comfortably touch it, so I think that means that i'm far from pushing it too hard (right?) and once the datasheet confirms it's okay I'll probably increase it further. Or is 0.7 current already very high for the extruder motor? (CW2 + dragon HF)
Clicking now only really seems to still occur during or just after retracts, so I feel like I'm not hitting hotend limits yet.
My hotend fan is already a 24V one, included with my Formbot kit, so I think that should be strong enough.
I did a check of how hot the extruder motor was during a long print, and I could comfortably touch it, so I think that means that i'm far from pushing it too hard (right?) and once the datasheet confirms it's okay I'll probably increase it further. Or is 0.7 current already very high for the extruder motor? (CW2 + dragon HF)
Clicking now only really seems to still occur during or just after retracts, so I feel like I'm not hitting hotend limits yet.
